jwest
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When were you out? Where? Want some company next time?
What tires are you referring to above?
Chasing one last foreign sound...
- Thread starter Houm_WA
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When were you out? Where? Want some company next time?
What tires are you referring to above?
Houm_WA
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I was actually in Oregon this time around...last weekend. Sure, I'll let you know next time and see if you're up for it. I run 275/65R18 Wrangler MT/Rs. I guess "big" is all relative. "Bigger" would've been more accurate.
jwest
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I've been considering that tire next.
Houm_WA
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I don't have the Kevlar version...they came out a few months after I bought my old school version set. Just as well; for some reason Goodyear isn't putting out the 275/65 Kevlars in a Load Rating E.
jwest
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Ah, too bad. The 33.4" 275/70x18 E would be sooooo sweet.
Houm_WA
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Too big...
jwest
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We'll see about that.... it's a small bit narrower than the 275/65x18 although the main rubbing issue I found on a test fit for both front and rear was at full extension just barely scrubbing the upper control arm. By so little that grinding off 2mm would never allow contact.
Aside from complete air loss/compressor failure, the IIDTool and/or LLAMS controller would provide the lift needed in 99% of the situations. A 33.2 or similar diameter is going to make some contacts in the fender liner at full compression, but only at full.
On 32" tires using the LLAMS in +50mm on off road lr3 setting with IIDTool set +15mm, I have 14" clear under my front engine plate, 12" under my dangling rear exhaust and 13" under the rear differential. This is all on factory length suspension height sensor arms.
I have not tested how much further I can get by adding more to the global height through the IIDTool but based on the ride quality through some curb cuts, I think it's getting very near the extension limitations.
What I have not seen is how starting off with so much more height affects the cross-linked air suspension programming but I will test it on my driveway retaining wall ramp which allows a full compression and full extension on same axle.
Aside from complete air loss/compressor failure, the IIDTool and/or LLAMS controller would provide the lift needed in 99% of the situations. A 33.2 or similar diameter is going to make some contacts in the fender liner at full compression, but only at full.
On 32" tires using the LLAMS in +50mm on off road lr3 setting with IIDTool set +15mm, I have 14" clear under my front engine plate, 12" under my dangling rear exhaust and 13" under the rear differential. This is all on factory length suspension height sensor arms.
I have not tested how much further I can get by adding more to the global height through the IIDTool but based on the ride quality through some curb cuts, I think it's getting very near the extension limitations.
What I have not seen is how starting off with so much more height affects the cross-linked air suspension programming but I will test it on my driveway retaining wall ramp which allows a full compression and full extension on same axle.
Houm_WA
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jwest: I don't see how this tire could be narrower than the 275/65R18....they are both the same width at "275." Maybe being taller makes it skinnier at the point of potential contact with the sensor height wiring loom but in general they should be the same width.
That said, the issue with trying to clear a 33 is going to be (as I mentioned in a separate post) forcing so much extension out of the EAS that you'll get "out of range" faults when you are in Extended Height.
I don't think bigger tires should affect the cross-link valving. I mean I run 32" tires and it works perfectly fine...not sure another inch would make a difference.
The other issue, is that eventually when you get to a tire that is that much bigger than stock, you have to consider "gearing up." I think going 3" larger than stock would get a person into that zone where they'd have to think about gears.
I want the "E" rating, but not if it means gearing up, cutting fenders or having out-of-range faults all the time (because those come with a "free" dump to Access Height when you need the clearance most!)
I guess I just think that the 275/65s are perfect for the LR3. I've done plenty of wheelin' on my MT/Rs...some black diamond stuff too, and at no point did I ever pine for tires that were just 1" larger. (6" yeah, but not 1")
That said, the issue with trying to clear a 33 is going to be (as I mentioned in a separate post) forcing so much extension out of the EAS that you'll get "out of range" faults when you are in Extended Height.
I don't think bigger tires should affect the cross-link valving. I mean I run 32" tires and it works perfectly fine...not sure another inch would make a difference.
The other issue, is that eventually when you get to a tire that is that much bigger than stock, you have to consider "gearing up." I think going 3" larger than stock would get a person into that zone where they'd have to think about gears.
I want the "E" rating, but not if it means gearing up, cutting fenders or having out-of-range faults all the time (because those come with a "free" dump to Access Height when you need the clearance most!)
I guess I just think that the 275/65s are perfect for the LR3. I've done plenty of wheelin' on my MT/Rs...some black diamond stuff too, and at no point did I ever pine for tires that were just 1" larger. (6" yeah, but not 1")
jwest
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The numbers are ratios so yes, the taller one becomes just slightly narrower. Probably not even noticeable without a large caliper to measure.
There's no forcing of the EAS to make a larger tire clear. The system is fine making it's full range of movement and none of these alterations increases that range of motion. The LLAMS and IIDTool only allow easier access to the full range, they don't increase it magically.
Regarding gearing up and tire diameter. There is no problem with the gearing on the highway although ABS could get interesting I suppose.
Off road though consider this: on a stock tire size 255/60x18 which is 30" you only have 6" of sidewall, and therefor can only air down a small amount. However, starting with a larger tire, whether it be 32" or 33", you have more room to air down, not that one would always air down by an amount equal to the added sidewall, but you could, which would gain you more ground traction for dry and rock surfaces.
Basically, this results in less of a gearing issue off road because the resultant rolling radius ends up coming closer by way of airing down the larger tire more than the smaller one.
As for cutting and trimming, well, I may just go that route next year with major gutting of the fender liners and then refitting nice looking fender flares.
I care a bit less about the 33" size as I do the various tires offered in that size. Using anything less than E load rated on my vehicle would be a bad idea.
There's no forcing of the EAS to make a larger tire clear. The system is fine making it's full range of movement and none of these alterations increases that range of motion. The LLAMS and IIDTool only allow easier access to the full range, they don't increase it magically.
Regarding gearing up and tire diameter. There is no problem with the gearing on the highway although ABS could get interesting I suppose.
Off road though consider this: on a stock tire size 255/60x18 which is 30" you only have 6" of sidewall, and therefor can only air down a small amount. However, starting with a larger tire, whether it be 32" or 33", you have more room to air down, not that one would always air down by an amount equal to the added sidewall, but you could, which would gain you more ground traction for dry and rock surfaces.
Basically, this results in less of a gearing issue off road because the resultant rolling radius ends up coming closer by way of airing down the larger tire more than the smaller one.
As for cutting and trimming, well, I may just go that route next year with major gutting of the fender liners and then refitting nice looking fender flares.
I care a bit less about the 33" size as I do the various tires offered in that size. Using anything less than E load rated on my vehicle would be a bad idea.
Houm_WA
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I follow you on the E Rating. I am at an impasse there, or at least I will be, when it's time to replace my current MT/Rs. On the gearing/airing-down...I think it's the weight and rolling-resistance of the larger tires that calls for the gearing up. There is no hard 'n fast rule but I just think 33s would mean gearing up.
No argument with your 2nd paragraph. I know how the IIDTool works; and I agree with your assessment.
On the tire size, the second number is indeed a ratio; but the first one is the width. So...how could a 275R70 be narrower than a 275/65? They are BOTH 275 width. Perhaps because of the larger ratio, they simply LOOK narrower, but if you pulled out a measuring tape you'd find that they are both the same. ????
Sounds like a Science experiment.
No argument with your 2nd paragraph. I know how the IIDTool works; and I agree with your assessment.
On the tire size, the second number is indeed a ratio; but the first one is the width. So...how could a 275R70 be narrower than a 275/65? They are BOTH 275 width. Perhaps because of the larger ratio, they simply LOOK narrower, but if you pulled out a measuring tape you'd find that they are both the same. ????
Sounds like a Science experiment.
