Coolant Crossover Pipe Repair 5.0 V8

[RoverTide]

Was the previous pipe from Atlantic British visibly different, i.e. lacking JLR or FoMoCo markings on it?

When buying parts from aftermarket vendors you must be VERY careful that they aren't selling aftermarket copies when you think you are receiving OE/Genuine JLR parts.

Also keep in mind that OEM is not the same as OE... some vendors have misleading marketing copy. The OE part is Genuine JLR, with a JLR package/box/label, what the dealer sells. OEM is aftermarket that should be manufactured by the same company as the OE part. OEM is sometimes the same as OE but without the Genuine box/label, but not alway; in some cases the OEM part may be different/inferior.

I detest vendors that don't make this explicitly clear on their websites. If the price seems too good to be true, it probably is.

Yes. The one I purchased from Atl Brit did not have the FoMoCo marking on it. I don't think they were being misleading; I think I just misinterpreted what I was purchasing... Again, I purchased over the phone, and when I purchased the Genuine LR Waterpump & oil cooler pipe "Kit", I mistakenly assumed I was also purchasing the genuine LR crossover pipes as part of the kit. No harm, no foul.. I just should have paid more attention. To be clear about Atl Brit, they have been a very helpful resource for me and I will continue to buy parts from them as needed.

 

[RoverTide]

Please pardon if you already know this, but for those that may find this thread in the future...

See video below. Watch from 53:50 to 57:00.
Note exactly where that the thicker bit on the semi circle on the oil cooler tube engages in the block,there is a small "channel" in the block and the tube must be rotated to the correct rotation to engage properly.
And this shows the re-design.

For those with the V6, this is exactly the same (not the entire video.. just this bit...)

Great callout on the oil cooler pipe engagement. I watched that video at least 10 times before doing this job, and had it playing on my laptop during the job as a reference. The detail this guy provides is phenomenal.

 

[gsxr]

This is good information - thanks for sharing!

If the aftermarket pipe is inferior enough that it doesn't last a few hundred miles, Atl Brit should stop selling it - period. Maybe they don't know about the failures, you could give them a heads-up.

 

[RoverTide]

Please pardon if you already know this, but for those that may find this thread in the future...

See video below. Watch from 53:50 to 57:00.
Note exactly where that the thicker bit on the semi circle on the oil cooler tube engages in the block,there is a small "channel" in the block and the tube must be rotated to the correct rotation to engage properly.
And this shows the re-design.

For those with the V6, this is exactly the same (not the entire video.. just this bit...)

Great callout on the oil cooler pipe engagement. I watched that video at least 10 times before doing this job, and had it playing on my laptop during the job as a reference. The detail this guy provides is phenomenal.

Wait... Are you the guy that made the video?

 

[Longtrail]

txfromwi made the video​

 

[txfromwi]

Thanks for the positive feedback, I had no idea anyone was using it routinely as a sleeping aid ...

 

[DiscoLR4]

I used it religiously during my crossover replacement work. Did just about every step (and then some), that @txfromwi showcased for us. Great resource, thanks so much.

Having said that, Ive driven about 2.5k miles since my replacement, and coolant level slowly climbing down. I used bleeding process, not vacuum filled, so assumed pockets of air. I've been routinely bringing tank back to max line, only to see it slowly decline (no puddles anywhere,).

Guessing I need to purchase vacuum and get back in there to see where it's leaking. I bought everything from dealer, except heater manifold (rear). It was back ordered, but found it on eBay. Claimed genuine, with sticker and logo, looked genuine, seemed legit, but clearly, leak somewhere, so I doubt now.

 

[RoverTide]

At this point, it looks like the genuine JLR (FoMoCo) pipe solved the problem. I've driven it a good bit and the block valley has stayed dry, and the coolant in the expansion tank has maintained the same hot/cold levels since the bleed procedure. Looking back, the top mounting hole on the pipe being so far off was probably the biggest red flag that the pipe was out of spec...

 

[RoverTide]

UPDATE: I am still leaking coolant from somewhere... I just haven't figured out the source. It's strange because it is inconsistent and there are no signs of leaking or dripping from the engine... block valley is dry, front of engine is dry, back of engine is dry, hoses and connections are dry... yet, there is coolant on the skid plate (towards the front) and in the driveway. A possible correlation I am starting to see is that it only seems to leak when it sits overnight, and the outdoor air temp is fairly cold.. below 40ish degrees F. So far, it hasn't dipped below that temp very often, which kind of makes the inconsistency make sense. I am wondering if there is a hairline crack in the radiator that only leaks when it contracts from cold weather... previous pressure tests didn't indicate a leak there, but I guess I will try again. My knowledge is limited, so will be grateful for any help with a few (probably dumb) questions:

-I haven't pulled the skid plate off yet to see drip locations, but what coolant components are towards the bottom of the engine bay that I should consider?
-Will a cold engine cooling system pressure test from the reservoir show a radiator leak? My simple understanding is that the thermostat blocks flow to the radiator until it warms up.
-Is there a way to pressurize only the radiator using the top hose? (This may be a dumb idea)
-Maybe a dye test would be better?

 

[Quijote]

Reading this thread with interest. I've been accumulating parts for my LR4 for over a year now. Finally, this past weekend I did part 1: front discs and rotors as well as hubs and LCA's. PITA to cult off the bolts and the job took a while, but it was quite successful and made much easier with a lift. Hubs and LCA's were preventive.

Now I need to do part 2: cross-over pipes, T-stat, water pump, belt, spark plugs. All preventive. Car is just over 10 years old with 56k miles.