Coolant Leak - Easy Fix - Check Yours!

[Rogo]

So another thread on here talks about fluctuating tach. Mine had been doing that ever so slightly, and so after seeing someone recommend cleaning the throttle body, I thought duh, I haven't ever done that. With 85K miles I figured it was time.

That went swimingly, but in inspecting under the engine cover, I found evidence of a small coolant leak near the downstream side of the throttle body. I believe there is a pre-heater there, so at first suspected that.

Then I noticed a brass cap on what appears to be the high point in the cooling system. I am assuming this is the bleeder valve. Well, that cap was barely finger tight and was the culprit! I could clearly see coolant crystalizing on the cap. I had lost probably 12-16 ounces of coolant since who knows when. Topped it off.

I unscrewed the cap (introducing air - I could hear it sucking in), put some teflon tape on it and wrench tightened the cap back on.

Anyway, put it on your list for next inspection.

 

[kwlr3]

Did that fix the fluctuation?

 

[bbyer]

Tip of the iceberg, so to speak.

You may find the link below to a four page thread not exactly amusing, but you have stumbled on what can be a real problem.

The thread below also has the solution, adding the plastic Tee bit to your take along parts supply. The plastic Tee that the chrome cap screws into, fractures - heat stress or something.

You have discovered a potential problem area before it is a problem - and yes, that is the high point air vent to be opened when refilling the cooling system - air lock first, and then perhaps something bad like warped alloy engine bits just because you decided to be a good guy and replace the coolant but did not know about the high point vent.

http://www.lrrforums.com/showthread...ystem-Bleeder-Valve-OEM-replacement-necessary

 

[ncburch22]

I learn a lot ahead of time by these posts. Thanks.

 

[Rogo]

Did that fix the fluctuation?

It really wasn't fluctuating much at all. Maybe 200 RPM. Things do seem smoother. There was a bit of varnish and soot in there. Its worth cleaning if you're doing other stuff. But the real win is that I discovered the leak!

 

[Rogo]

You may find the link below to a four page thread not exactly amusing, but you have stumbled on what can be a real problem.

The thread below also has the solution, adding the plastic Tee bit to your take along parts supply. The plastic Tee that the chrome cap screws into, fractures - heat stress or something.

You have discovered a potential problem area before it is a problem - and yes, that is the high point air vent to be opened when refilling the cooling system - air lock first, and then perhaps something bad like warped alloy engine bits just because you decided to be a good guy and replace the coolant but did not know about the high point vent.

http://www.lrrforums.com/showthread...ystem-Bleeder-Valve-OEM-replacement-necessary

Very nice. I remember that thread because of the bic pen trail fix, but never really paid attention to it. Thanks for posting it!

Now I need to take another peak to be sure I didn't crack it

 

[Wickham]

Dealer Just Replaced Mine

Very interesting post. Recently took my 06 LR3 SE 70k in for an oil change to my Atlanta area LR dealer and my service manager suggested that I replace this T-part. He said they have been having leaks and breakage of the part. He reccomended it as preventitive. Good call it looks like.

 

[toddjb122]

How do you access this brass cap for inspection?

Can you post a picture so we know it when we see it?

Thanks for sharing either way!

 

[lfr]

Heat does damage this plastic T. Replacing it is your best bet. Mine craked in the midle of a long trip

 

[calibre]

I had a small leak, that was getting worse. Took off the engine cover off, and headed to this message board - found this thread, and this was my problem. The plastic tee basically crumbled into my hand when I went back into the garage to check the tee. When replacing, take special caution, as the ******* in the hose will also crumble, leaving small plastic pieces in the hose.

After testing my replacement, I now noticed a new small leak in the thermostat housing, near the top/small hose connector.

Is this just yet another plastic part that is getting old, or is it possible that I have higher-than-normal pressure in my system, thus, I'll be chasing leaks after each part is replaced??