Cruise cntrl 95 discovery

[Maddie]

Okay is it my module. I have the electric manual for my 95 discovery and I have ran thru all of the trouble it points to the module every time. I got a used mod because they do not make new ones. The one from the junk yard did not work at first. After one 4mile trip it started to work. Worked about 5 times after that in a 6 month span. I hate intermintents. Do I have to go down the road with vom and scope to test my cruise cntrl
And replace the EPROM in the module? I keep thinking I'll just tst the speed sensor first. Get some to drive me around while I test every pin on the module. Yes I can see it now . I'll just say one more test and we will have driven a thousand miles. Or should I take it to a dealer and check the codes? Is there even codes on a 95?

 

[joey]

Are you sure it isn't a vacuum issue? This is normally the problem.

 

[Maddie]

Cruise

The part of the test that I put battery pwr to the ecu makes the cruise pump work and does pull the diaphram back all the way. First thing I thought of was the vacuum when the cruise initially stopped wrking that and the brake switch. Like I say it passed all of the test. I really thought for sure that diaphram would have been the trouble.

 

[joey]

If not vacuum, then sadly it is either an ECU issue, or a ground problem.

 

[Maddie]

I have thought about the circuit not being grounded completely as well as once and a while the lamps for the heater cntrls will go out. I did check what I thought mite be a be grnd in the pass sd foot well along with a few others as the diode that should have batt has a little less like 11.6 volts test the diode itself test good. Think it comes from the main ecu nt sure I'll have to find some more time to get serious with it. First I've got chnge those frnt brake rotors

 

[joey]

Just so you know IIRC there are like 20 grounding spots on a Rover.... sound fun?

 

[fatmcnasty]

Mine was doing stuff like that.. I pulled the ECU out opened it up. Located the 4 or 5 broken solder joints. Re soldered them and its running fine.. Hard part was getting the laquer of the back of the board, but a wire wheel dremel and a sharp exacto knife make quick work of that.

 

[Maddie]

Fatmcnasty thanks for the tip. Took the old ecu out and looked at all that before buying used ecu. I took several components off the board and replaced them and looked at the back as solder joints and traces resoldered some iffy spots. Could you please give me an idea as to where on the circuit board it was bad? Perhaps I should look inside my junkyrd ecu. Thanks again as I would really like to get it
Working

.

 

[fatmcnasty]

it was on the long chip at the bottom and the pads on the relay. at that point I said to heck with it and re did all the joints, just because. but if you have 2 ECU's doing the same thing I would venture it was the speed sensor.

 

[Maddie]

Tried speed sensor with rear driver side wheel off ground. Off and on voltage as I spun wheel. That is why I want to drive while monitoring it. I wonder if at faster speeds it is going out.