Current Brake Pad and Rotor Recommendations?

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16FujiDisco

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I just flushed mine with 2 liters of LiquiMoly SL6 DOT4 fluid (~$15/liter form autozone) for euro cars and used the motive power bleeder (~$65 on Amazon) for the first time and it was a breeze.

I used some Preston’s dot4 stuff from Walmart not too long ago and thought it made the pedal squishy; I can tell a difference with the LM stuff for sure.
 

BigBriDogGuy

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Well, looks like I am going to take the plunge into doing my own brakes. Watching the videos and such it seems if there were something a guy could do on his own, changing brake pads would be it. Any suggestions or tips would be welcome.
 

ftillier

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Keep an eye on the fluid level in the master cylinder reservoir as you retract the pistons, in case it had been changed/topped up at some point in the past. You don't want it to overflow, the fluid will eat paint.

Do you have a copy of the workshop manual to use as reference? Are you doing just pads, or rotors too?
 

BigBriDogGuy

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Thanks @ftillier. No manual. Just lots of YouTube vid watching. My worn pad sensor went off and then I looked around for professional help and it is either booked out until forever or really expensive for the type of work being done. The vids are pretty darn good. One question I had is that one of the guys said to crack open the cap (not fully open or remove) to the brake oil reservoir so that when you depress the calipers to free up the pad you don't put too much pressure on the lines and rupture them. Others didn't mention this, so I am wondering about that. Makes sense, but I'm concerned about getting air bubbles in the lines. Plus, if it's not a real concern, why bother?

Right now, I just want to get the sensor off and make sure I have enough pads to safely stop. I know I should replace rotors, etc. but they look pretty good and I've got some major repairs and upgrades budgeted for around the end of the year, first part of next. At that point, I'll get it all done with top quality parts.
 

ryanjl

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If you are just doing pads, it's a one banana job. Over 8 years of ownership, I've replaced my front brake pads 3 times and my front rotors 4 (didn't like the Brembo rotors I put on in April, so swapped them out a month ago or so for OE Land Rover rotors).

For pads alone, the only special tool you may want is a set of thin wrenches, like these:


But you may be able to make do with a thin pair of pliers or something similar.

For the rotors, the "special" tools would be a 21mm 12-point socket (and either an impact or a long breaker bar) and a T50 torx. Those are mandatory.
 

txfromwi

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Per above, the backer nut on the sliders is thin, I use a 6" crescent wrench, it j u s t fits.

And that 21mm 12 point.

I know I drive everyone nuts, but here is the video I put together on this.

The information you will find here is typical of any brake job, but I have all the torques, AND a link to Bodsy's Brake Bible. In the video I use Bodsy's to properly adjust the parking brakes. And if you do that you will need another specialty tool - just see the video, it's a strange little adapter better seen in person than my description here.


Because we have all done brakes since we were born, as I re-watch this video there are a couple places I wish I had included a bit more detail because I skip over some parts a bit too fast - but the information is in there, if a bit abbreviated.

And because it's a Rover, lots of little stuff in that video that is best completed, but that hackers like myself never learned as kids. Might be a few things useful for you.

 

BigBriDogGuy

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I, for one, have not done brakes since I was born, but I did do one side today. Rear passenger's side with the sensor. I went really slowly and got it done. Lots of great videos with tips and tricks were incredibly helpful. It's the little things that were the most valuable, things that people who have been doing this forever don't even think about. For instance, I put the LR4 suspension into locked access mode. However, I also pulled the fuse that disables the suspension. Was it necessary? Was it overkill? I don't know. What I do know is that my rig loves to self-level (even when it's off) and I didn't need it doing that jacked up with the tire and wheel off. Call it peace of mind. The other thing was that skinny wrench deal. One guy said he had to sand off some of the thickness on his and I found myself doing the same. It worked. Another was using the old brake pad as a shim to place between the c-clamp and the piston when you are trying to compress it. That makes total sense. Another was the guy that took the time to explain that you would need to allow the piston to slowly compress and then adjust the c-clamp, increasing the tightness until it's fully compressed. This is the kind of stuff that most of the folks here already know and take for granted. Being greener than grass, any one of those things could trip me up if I had no prior understanding of what was going on or how to deal with it.

I could have finished up the other side but it got late and I got tired. Having done the one side, the other should go smoother (assuming I don't run into something out of the ordinary). I probably could have finished it up tonight, maybe should have. But when I get physically tired and mentally exhausted that's when I make mistakes and things go wrong. Plus, it's no fun. Sure, I find it rewarding to finish a new project. But I'm not willing to be staggering around a jacked up 6,000 lbs. vehicle in the middle of the night trying to finish up something that can just as easily wait until tomorrow and be done when I'm fresher and in the light of day.

Update: I got a second wind and decided to finish the other side. Embedded the new brakes. Mission accomplished. I know my own body and figured that if I didn't get it done now, tomorrow I'd be so stiff and sore that it wouldn't be any good. Plus, I'm filthy dirty now. No reason to get that way again. Nice to have it done. It's like paying myself a grand.
 
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Harold_C

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I am getting a shuttering when braking and determined that it is not the control arms, they were replaced back in 2022 before I purchased the disco. I am about to order a set of Zimmerman rotors and Ferodo (OE) pads from FCP Euro. Thoughts on the combo?

I have done brakes before on other cars but just don't have the time right now. Will have the local shop (non-LR indy) install them and rotate the wheels while they're off.
 

Longtrail

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Well done BigBriDogGuy - you have started the journey :). I agree with your approach, don't do the last ski run of the day if you're feeling tired... It's massively empowering to do your own work! Take your time. Well done.
 
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ktm525

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I am getting a shuttering when braking and determined that it is not the control arms, they were replaced back in 2022 before I purchased the disco. I am about to order a set of Zimmerman rotors and Ferodo (OE) pads from FCP Euro. Thoughts on the combo?

I have done brakes before on other cars but just don't have the time right now. Will have the local shop (non-LR indy) install them and rotate the wheels while they're off.

good
 

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