Crunchy When Wet
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So I was asked to write up how I did my Emergency air up system, everything needed I bought on Amazon, and I will include part numbers.
First order the following:
1 x Blue Nylon 12 Flexible Metric Tubing, 4mm ID, 6mm OD, 1mm Wall, 25' Length Part Number NFM-0855-25 $14.36 with Prime
1 x Heatshield Products 203122 HP Color Heat Sleeve Blue 7/16" ID x 25' Adjustable Heat Shield Sleeve Part number 203122 $18.33 with Prime
1 x 5 Pcs 1/8" Thread One Touch Push In Pneumatic Quick Connector for 6mm Tubing Part number s14070200am8392 $5.51 (Not Prime eligible)
4 x Control Devices Brass Tank Valve, 1/8" NPT Part Number TV12 $3.04/ea with Prime
4 x Anderson Metals Brass Pipe Fitting, Coupling, 1/8" x 1/8" Female Pipe Part number 56103-02 $3.76/ea
4 x SMC KR Series PBT Flame Resistant Push-to-Connect Tube Fitting, Union Tee, 6mm Tube OD, Black Part number KRT06-00 $5.71/ea with Prime
Total cost without tax or shipping = $88.24
Drink a beer and wait for everything to arrive, you can also get the 1/8 to 1/8 unions at home depot or lowes, but neither store (in my area) had metric fittings.
Once everything arrives you will need to choose to do this the hard way or easy way.
DRAIN THE AIR FROM YOUR SUSPENSION BEFORE DOING THIS, USE JACK STANDS, AND KEEP YOUR ARMS AND HANDS OUT OF THE WHEEL WELL WHILE DRAINING.
The Hard Way:
Locate the airline going into the top of the strut (either blue or black), make a very nice cut in the air line roughly 3 or so inches above air strut, install the three way adapter onto your freshly cut air line, install new air line in third opening and roughly estimate the length you will need to run. Drill a hole for the schraeder valve to install to, put all that jazz together and you are done with that strut.
I say this is the hard way because unless you have tiny, child like hands with incredible hulk smash strength, this will be difficult for most people.
The Easy Way:
Remove the three top nuts on the strut with the vehicle jacked up, unbolt the nut holding the airline in the top of the strut and CAREFULLY remove it, there is a wee little metal piece under that nut that helps hold the airline in, be sure not to knock this off otherwise it will fall into the strut (there was hardly any tubing past this piece on mine which made me nervous). I say do this because it will not hurt to replace this piece while you have the strut out, in fact I would recommend to replace all the air lines while you are doing this.
When choosing a location to mount your air valves to inflate keep in mind to keep it somewhere accessible, my front two are mounted on the grill, and my back 2 are mounted on the rear bumper (don't mount them on the face of your bumper like I did, you get rear ended lightly and it will deflate your rear).
Also, the rear will inflate quite fast as there is not much weight on the end, the front is a different story, I usually have to jack the front up to inflate as my compressor can not push that many psi (roughly 160 to 170psi per strut in front). So you may have to raise each front wheel off the ground to inflate, and use an air gauge.
Finally if you do end up using this, either remove fuses from under the hood for suspension or turn suspension off with your tool (GAP, Faultmate, Gun, etc..) and it should be noted this wont work if you have a popped strut, those are the parts you need above, you can also add a shutoff valve in line between valve block and three way (incase you have a leaky valve block), this set up will get you home from wherever you are so you can make repairs, it is ill advised to use this as a permanent solution for whatever illness your rover has, it still needs to be fixed.
First order the following:
1 x Blue Nylon 12 Flexible Metric Tubing, 4mm ID, 6mm OD, 1mm Wall, 25' Length Part Number NFM-0855-25 $14.36 with Prime
1 x Heatshield Products 203122 HP Color Heat Sleeve Blue 7/16" ID x 25' Adjustable Heat Shield Sleeve Part number 203122 $18.33 with Prime
1 x 5 Pcs 1/8" Thread One Touch Push In Pneumatic Quick Connector for 6mm Tubing Part number s14070200am8392 $5.51 (Not Prime eligible)
4 x Control Devices Brass Tank Valve, 1/8" NPT Part Number TV12 $3.04/ea with Prime
4 x Anderson Metals Brass Pipe Fitting, Coupling, 1/8" x 1/8" Female Pipe Part number 56103-02 $3.76/ea
4 x SMC KR Series PBT Flame Resistant Push-to-Connect Tube Fitting, Union Tee, 6mm Tube OD, Black Part number KRT06-00 $5.71/ea with Prime
Total cost without tax or shipping = $88.24
Drink a beer and wait for everything to arrive, you can also get the 1/8 to 1/8 unions at home depot or lowes, but neither store (in my area) had metric fittings.
Once everything arrives you will need to choose to do this the hard way or easy way.
DRAIN THE AIR FROM YOUR SUSPENSION BEFORE DOING THIS, USE JACK STANDS, AND KEEP YOUR ARMS AND HANDS OUT OF THE WHEEL WELL WHILE DRAINING.
The Hard Way:
Locate the airline going into the top of the strut (either blue or black), make a very nice cut in the air line roughly 3 or so inches above air strut, install the three way adapter onto your freshly cut air line, install new air line in third opening and roughly estimate the length you will need to run. Drill a hole for the schraeder valve to install to, put all that jazz together and you are done with that strut.
I say this is the hard way because unless you have tiny, child like hands with incredible hulk smash strength, this will be difficult for most people.
The Easy Way:
Remove the three top nuts on the strut with the vehicle jacked up, unbolt the nut holding the airline in the top of the strut and CAREFULLY remove it, there is a wee little metal piece under that nut that helps hold the airline in, be sure not to knock this off otherwise it will fall into the strut (there was hardly any tubing past this piece on mine which made me nervous). I say do this because it will not hurt to replace this piece while you have the strut out, in fact I would recommend to replace all the air lines while you are doing this.
When choosing a location to mount your air valves to inflate keep in mind to keep it somewhere accessible, my front two are mounted on the grill, and my back 2 are mounted on the rear bumper (don't mount them on the face of your bumper like I did, you get rear ended lightly and it will deflate your rear).
Also, the rear will inflate quite fast as there is not much weight on the end, the front is a different story, I usually have to jack the front up to inflate as my compressor can not push that many psi (roughly 160 to 170psi per strut in front). So you may have to raise each front wheel off the ground to inflate, and use an air gauge.
Finally if you do end up using this, either remove fuses from under the hood for suspension or turn suspension off with your tool (GAP, Faultmate, Gun, etc..) and it should be noted this wont work if you have a popped strut, those are the parts you need above, you can also add a shutoff valve in line between valve block and three way (incase you have a leaky valve block), this set up will get you home from wherever you are so you can make repairs, it is ill advised to use this as a permanent solution for whatever illness your rover has, it still needs to be fixed.
