Engine Tune Up / Fuel Cleaner

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wcryer

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This last weekend I did some heavy mountain driving. I was rushing up passes in the rain with a truck packed with people and gear and the a/c on to defog windows. My check engine light checked on after a bit and I noticed the truck wasn't quite as responsive with power and gear shifts. The light had kicked on previously after some heavy mountain driving so I wasn't too concerned at the time.

I got home and checked the fault codes with the faultmate and they told me bank 1 and 2 were running rich with other possible issues with the MAF.

I would like to do a bit of a tune up (Currently at 106K mi) and am wondering if I should be hunting down some greater root causes for the decreased performance.

With this oil change I plan to:
- Oil and filter
- Air filter (suggestions? I usually just use OEM)
- Fuel System Cleaner?
- Should I preemptively replace MAF?
- What else can i clean or check to make sure the engine is running smooth?
- High mileage considerations?

Thanks for your input.
-Will
 

blackforestham

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1. Clean the throttle body only with CRC TB Cleaner. DO NOT get the MAF wet with the TB cleaner. Use a small cloth and long q-tips. Don't blast directly into the TB.
2. Pick up a can of BG44K injector cleaner. You can find it all over EBAY. The better deals are on 4 or 10 can pkgs. Split it up with a couple other dudes and it's not too expensive. This is the only cleaner approved by LR.
3. Leave the MAF sensor alone unless it's defective or faulty.
 

wcryer

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wouldn't i already remove the section holding the MAF to get to the throttle body? What is your process?
 

blackforestham

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You are correct. I just disconnect the intake hose and push it aside to access the TB.
 

schafari

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I would not be surprised if you got your MAF sensor dirty. If you travel in dusty/dirty/dirty water conditions the sensor can get an amazingly light coating on it and it gets confused. I had this happen while travelling dirt/dusty roads and was able to resolve it after cleaning the sensor.

The sensor is not as scary as some have you believe. You need to be smart, gentle, and use the right cleaner. There is a specific MAF sensor cleaner that you need. I would not use anything else. Follow the directions on the can, it is easy.

I tried a number of things, inlcuding cleaning the throttle body that did not work. Once I removed the MAF sensor and was able to get a good look at it, it was clear what the problem was. It removes simply with two torx screws.
 

Disco Mike

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For a good additive, put a bottle of BG's 44K in the tank.
Clean your t/body, and yes you can spray directly into it, make sure you pull the t/cable so you can open the t/plate allowing you to clean both sides, wipe out all the residue.
Might want to consider buying a set of E3 spark plugs, a lot of us are finding they make more low end torque.
I would leave the MAF alone till you get a MAF fault code.
What about the more important service issues, your tranny, t/case and diffs, all of which with the exception of the tranny are always in need of fluid changes sooner then the factories recommendations?
 

tlt

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Which model E3 plug. Any special considerations?

I would be interested to learn more from some folks using them. OE vs E3 vs Others.
 

wcryer

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i replaced the plugs with OEM not long ago. got the BG's and plan on tbody this weekend. I would like to do tranny and diffs (tcase was also done not long ago). The tranny they say is 150K I certainly think it would be smart to do it earlier, especially because i am not very nice to it while driving. How involved of a process is changing the tranny fluid?
 

schafari

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Tranny is not hard, but it will likley be a bit messy. I was glad I did mine just recently on my 05 with 62k on it. The fluild that came out was still ok, but worse than I expected.

When you refill, remember to start the car and run through the gears, and then check back on fluid level. I measured exactly the amount that come out. I then tried to put that much new back in. It overflowed with still a lot left. Once a closed it up, rand through the gears, sure enough, it took the rest in without overflowing.

(I also do my diff's every other year. Those are easier, but tranny is not "hard" by any means.)
 

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