First MOD HID Fog/Driving light conversion

[Xrover]

I did my first mod on the LR3 today. Took out the Halogen bulbs on the front fogs and installed an HID kit. Soo easy.....

 

[Houm_WA]

pics?

 

[Xrover]

I didn't take any photos. I figured everyone here has already seen that mod.

 

[jjvd21]

Please explain what you did and take a picture for us. I read somewhere that the LR bi-xenons are 4300 color HID. What color did you go with. Major improvement to nite driving? Thanks

 

[Xrover]

I will take some photos.
Here's what I did !!

Bought a H11 4300K HID Conversion kit which consists of 2 HID bulbs, 2 Ballasts and wiring harnesses

First I removed the Headlamp housings. Super easy as it is only 2 pull up latches and the entire housing can be removed.

Next I popped off the fog light trim ring to reveal the 3 torx screws which hold the fog light in.

Now that the fog light is loose, pull it forward and unplug the wiring connector from the back of the bulb.

Remove the bulb which is an H11 Halogen bulb and stash it somewhere in case you want to change back to halogens in the future

Put in the new H11 HID Bulb. I got the 4300K (color temp.) which is the same color as the stock Xenon headlamps. 5000 K bulbs actually look whiter.

Mount your ballast somewhere in the compartment area behind where the headlamp housings fit in.

Run the power wire cable from the ballast to the power wire plug that you removed from the back of the stock Halogen fog light bulb. It is the one that feeds the 12 volts to the fog light bulbs. Each wire cable has 2 colored wires in it. One is Black and that is your ground wire. The other colored wire is Positive. The power wire cable from the ballast has a Red and Black wire with metal pins on the ends. The Red pin wire plugs into the colored wire side of the socket from the original fog light wire cable. The Black pinned wire from the ballast plugs into the other side of the socket which contains that black wire. I used Heat Shrink around this connection you just did but you can wrap it in electrical tape. This just keeps the pinned ends from coming out. You could of course make this permanent by cutting off that factory fog light power wire connector and butt connecting it to the ballast power wire. I don't like to go this route because I might want to convert back to Halogen when I sell the vehicle. This is how I got the present H11 HID kit. I pulled it off my Avalanche before I sold that.

Now plug the 2 weather proof snap connectors coming off the other side of the ballast onto the 2 connectors off the back of the new HID bulbs you installed.

Check and recheck all your connections and when you are satisfied all is good, turn on your fogs and make sure the power up. If all is still good, turn off the fogs, reinstall the fogs back into the Rover, pop back on the bezel and reinstall your headlamp housings.

That's it, Your done

I get all my HID stuff from Joseph Chang at Xenon Rider.com (626) 378-8138. He knows me (Lenny) from the Avalanche club. The whole kit will cost you under 200 bucks.

 

[Houm_WA]

4300K? Really? They look a lot cooler than that (which is actually a higher temperature). Hmm....I guess I see them when they are warming up mostly....I think they get whiter as they power up.

 

[Xrover]

4300K? Really? They look a lot cooler than that (which is actually a higher temperature). Hmm....I guess I see them when they are warming up mostly....I think they get whiter as they power up.

They do get whiter as they warm up.

When HID's are output through projector type lens lens's they tend to change color slightly due to the focusing of the light.

If you check out new BMW's and Mercedes, there headlights Have a Purple look but are the same 4300K bulbs as ours.

 

[Houm_WA]

The warming of the lights is due to focusing or the optics; it just takes time for HIDs to get to their end temperature.