Front brake pads on 2013LR4 funny looking weight?

[ryanjl]

Why didn't you replace the rotors? I understand you said in the other thread that you are still using your old worn rotors because they were proving hard to get off, but that's a problem that's only going to get worse. Hammer the **** out of them.

I'm pretty sure that's why your Ferodo pads are squeaking. Nothing about the pad itself.

 

[powershift]

Why didn't you replace the rotors? I understand you said in the other thread that you are still using your old worn rotors because they were proving hard to get off, but that's a problem that's only going to get worse. Hammer the **** out of them.

I'm pretty sure that's why your Ferodo pads are squeaking. Nothing about the pad itself.

I did what I could at the time to service the breaks. Security called me out previously for working on it in the parking lot while doing the front cross over, so I was out in the street with cars driving by trying to do the brakes.
I'm in the middle of packing up and moving out of my apartment to go overlanding full-time, but once I get settled out in the country I'm going to try again or Friday if I have time. It seems a little risky to wait until I go out into BFE before working on it, but I need to get used to it and it will be more comfortable lol. I need to get permatex high-temp lock tight for the caliper bolts and the correct size 12 point front caliper mounting bracket bolt.

 

[powershift]

The front caliper mounting bracket bolt size is 21mm.

 

[powershift]

I swapped the front rotors out and the front squeal went away! At least it went away after bedding them and some initial driving. I'll test it out more tomorrow when I run errands again. I got the pads smoking hot, let them cool and repeated twice. Now just the rears squeal when backing into a spot.

The front left rotor was hard to remove. I beat on the sob with the hatchet and no dice. The front right came right off with a few beatings. For the front left I ended up putting a long screw driver in the cooling vein, pulling on the **** and then beating on it from inside out and it came off. I'm going to try that technique with the rears.

 

[ktm525]

You are going to live in your Rover full time?

 

[ryanjl]

I swapped the front rotors out and the front squeal went away! At least it went away after bedding them and some initial driving. I'll test it out more tomorrow when I run errands again. I got the pads smoking hot, let them cool and repeated twice. Now just the rears squeal when backing into a spot.

The front left rotor was hard to remove. I beat on the sob with the hatchet and no dice. The front right came right off with a few beatings. For the front left I ended up putting a long screw driver in the cooling vein, pulling on the **** and then beating on it from inside out and it came off. I'm going to try that technique with the rears.

I'm a little surprised that a Nevada vehicle is like that. You may have said on here before that it came from somewhere else, though.

Anyway, it's probably a good idea to put a thin film of antiseize on the hub surface before installing a new rotor, especially if the hub-part of the rotor itself has not been painted or coated in any way.

 

[powershift]

You are going to live in your Rover full time?

If the weather is bad (wind or overnight rain/snow) then I'll work out of the back of it. I found a comfortable low-profile chair and a desk that fits inside the back. I'm looking forward to it tbh. Normally I work out of a big canvas 8 man tent that I setup an office in that also has windows all around.

I'm a little surprised that a Nevada vehicle is like that. You may have said on here before that it came from somewhere else, though.

Anyway, it's probably a good idea to put a thin film of antiseize on the hub surface before installing a new rotor, especially if the hub-part of the rotor itself has not been painted or coated in any way.

The anti-seize is a great tip. The LR4 lived its life in California before moving to Nevada.

 

[DTXRover]

I've been using Brembo Rotors as they are machined well and painted with a gloss gray that I suspect could be considered anti-dust, and for pads have had good luck with Akebono ceramic pads. The pads seem to generate less dust and have the highest friction rating of GG that I've found, and have reviewed Ferodo, Hawk, and Brembo as well as TRW, although I think any of those brands would work well. It was difficult to locate the Friction Coefficient, and had to order them to find it in some cases.

Higher letters in the alphabet indicate better friction potential than lower letters (for example, “E” is better than “D”). If the first letter is lower than the second letter, it means the pad works better at high temperatures and needs a warm-up to be fully effective; if the second letter is lower than the first, the pad may fade at high temperatures. The best street pads have good friction at both high and low temperatures (ideally, both letters would be the same or at least near the midpoint of the available letter-sequence, as in “FF”)