Head gaskets

[Chongo]

I took a good look
how the head gasket is designed and it comes with a sticky adhesive on the
composite part of the gasket. This will work beautiful if both surfaces are left
perfectly dry, and free of oil, i.e. lacquer thinner. Use NO OIL PERIOD on the head bolts, You’ll regret it if you do. You see the oil you put on the threads, like the book tells us to, will push off the threads as you thread it into the threads of the block and it
gets between the block and head pushing into the gasket areas ruining the effects of
the adhesive on the gasket, Oil and adheasive isn't usually a good combination......

What I did and this works well, I put only 2 layers of Teflon Tape on the threads of the new head bolts and a small amount of grease just under The bolt head. What this does is not let the bolt head gall into the heads and lubes The threads into the block without any oil. I believe this is an area where a lot of people have got themselves into trouble, and they followed the book. This would probably cause gasket failure in a few thousand Miles or so, and would probably be blamed on the mechanic or machinist, when it is A procedure problem. Use the Teflon tape on the bolts, it runs in nicely and life Is good.
Remember, Torque in the sequence the book tells you to follow at 15 ft lbs, then turn 90 degrees more repeating the same sequence, then an adittional 90 degrees more repeating the same sequence completes this task.
Ttyl :

 

[Russ]

head gasket inquiry

I've been given curious advice on my 2000 Discovery II with 100k miles. Just after my 90k service I noticed a lack of power going up hill. The engine continually downshifted. I went back to my mechanic who informed me I now get to do a head gasket replacement. After just having just performed an expensive service, I asked how this could just pop-up. I was given no explanation. I spoke with a fellow who builds Rover motors who tells me before I spend the money on a head gasket repair, I should know that these engines historically have a dropped sleeve or cracked block before I spend the money to do the head gasket job. Essentially, my advice has been your engine is not worth the money for the head gasket job, replace the engine, or, just do the head gasket job. I never ran hot nor did I overheat. It runs fine, idles fine. I do see coolant seeping down the side of the block as well as a very small amount seeping from the exhaust manifold bolts. How do I determine the best course of action?

 

[joey]

Could also be carbon build up on the exhaust valves... try doing a seafoam treatment... search this board for more info on seafoam and what to do with it... for about $6 you may solve your issues.

 

[Chongo]

Head Gasket Inquiry

Well, starting off with your first problem “lack of power “ and I’m assuming your check engine light has not yet come on. There is a huge list of problems that it can be without being a faulty sensor of some sort, or computer related. Carbon build up behind the exhaust valve is an issue in this engine due to design and no rotators on the exhaust valves. This will decrease exhaust flow, eventually and slowly decreasing your horsepower. But lack of power by carbon build up takes a long long time to build up under normal circumstances, unless you have a oil control issue in your engine or cylinders which is a whole different matter. A good test here would be to run your finger inside the tail pipe to see what color the exhaust is. Black powder and oily is a oil control problem. Various shades of tan is normal. A somewhat whiter color means coolant is getting into the combustion chamber somehow. Having your mechanic pull the plugs and check them for color related issues will help, and have him also run a compression test and a cylinder leak down test as well. The two test are not the same. Also with all spark plugs removed have your mechanic pressure check the coolant system. Turn the engine over a few times to expel any fluids that may have entered the cylinders before installing the spark plugs again.
As far as the sleeves or liners slipping this requires the heads to be off to be certain. I know of only 4 things that can cause cylinder liners to slip, first one is obvious, a seized piston in liner, 2nd is poor design or assembly by the manufacturer, 3rd is overheating, and the 4th is lack of correct coolant services. The liners can’t slip far, they are machined into the block and the bottom of the liners rest against the main bearing bulkheads.
As far as the coolant coming from the block or exhaust manifold
bolts externally, this is not encouraging. But the test I talked about earlier ( pressure checking the coolant system ) should expose this problem.
Each persons problem is unique, not everything fails in the same way twice. Sometimes what is obviously broken is only the result of what was the problem.

There's probably a few questions That will probably be asked by others before anyone can give you an accurate solution.

This is some standard info we need:

Vehicle year
Vehicle series (i.e., 1999 Discoveries could have been Series I or II; there are gigantic differences between RRC, P38A, and "new" Range Rovers)
Mileage
Any modifications that are mechanical in nature
For example, if you have a grinding sound from underneath, please realize it's helpful to know that you have a Detroit locker under there!

1: describe the substance and color inside of the tail pipe.

2: does the vehicle smoke at all ? have someone drive behind you to see

3: Does the engine shake at idle ? under load ?

4: last service? And what was done

5: Is the radiator fluid low ?

6: is the engine oil level getting higher, and milky white ?

7: Are you loosing radiator fluid?

8: What Did your mechanic talk to you about the inspection ? in detail ?

9: Is your radiator fluid changing colors and are the hoses getting soft ?

10: Does the vehilce miss under heavy load ?

11: What is the color of the porcelain tip inside of the spark plug?

12 Any differences in the brake pedal?

Of course any further information will greatly help others in this forum to better help you with this issue ?

I wish you well in finding the problem. If you have any further questions please post them…………………. chongo

 

[docstrange]

piston misfiring

i have a question i just got my 02 Rangerover p38 out of the shop for replacing the water pump the mechanic mentioned the #2 piston misfiring. Would they be able to replace one piston? Also how much would something like that cost. Or would that mean a head gasket job? when i drove it i felt no power loss.