If anyone needs information on dropping your LR4 tank to replace the fuel pump, let me know...

[thebruce]

I just did this last weekend and would have taken 1-2hrs with a lift and proper instructions. Instead of took me 5-6hrs over 2 days. Most of that time was messing with how to remove connectors or figuring out how the pump and fuel filter were oriented in the tank. The workshop manual was mostly useless and didnt even reference the correct fuel filter in my tank.

This addresses the following codes:

- P008A-07 LOW PRESSURE FUEL SYSTEM PRESSURE IS TOO LOW.
- P089-64 FUEL PRESSURE REGULATOR PERFORMANCE.

Had a check engine light on but the dealer and indy couldnt figure it out. The dealer told me they rarely see fuel pumps go so replaced the sensor. Came back a few weeks later. My indy did a software update that also didnt fix it. Seems these pumps do lose some performance over time, which is enough to trip the engine light but not enough to effect performance.

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[powershift]

I like those rims. How many miles were on the fuel pump?

 

[callin]

I am having the same codes pop up with no performance issues at all, so I was actually looking into this process and gonna get a topix subscription for the workshop manual. Andy advice/tips/pics would be greatly appreciated!

 

[thebruce]

I like those rims. How many miles were on the fuel pump?

Yea they are my fav! Fuel pump was about 80k miles. Dealer said they didnt see many of them fail, so replaced the sensor. But the dealer is an idiot and mostly just a waste of time. Online ive seen more people talk about them failing.

 

[thebruce]

I am having the same codes pop up with no performance issues at all, so I was actually looking into this process and gonna get a topix subscription for the workshop manual. Andy advice/tips/pics would be greatly appreciated!

I had the same. I just lived with the engine light for 4 months but it was eating at my soul so finally bit the bullet and did it. I first tried having the dealer replace the sensor when they dropped the tank to do the recall on the fuel flange. Should have just replaced the pump as it would have been no extra work...but they said they rarely saw them fail, and if it failed the car wouldn't start...so must be a sensor issues. Wasnt. There is also a LR notice which recommends a firmware update. Tried that too and no luck.

I can walk you through dropping the tank and installing it. I will write something up when you are ready to dive in. I think the pump was like $200 and the dealer wanted like $2500 to do it...

 

[thebruce]

I took pics of each step and not hard once you know where things are.

 

[callin]

Thanks. I had my dealership do the software update as well, but it came back after a few days.

Was the sensor on the frame rail, right in front of the fuel tank? Where did you get the pump and sensor, have any links/suppliers you'd recommend?

This is the only video I've seen that goes into detail - though it was not the SCV6 model I'm thinking it'll be a very similar process.

 

[txfromwi]

Thanks!

Do you happen to have any photos of the spot where the vent hose (that goes to the carbon cannister) attaches to the tank?

 

[thebruce]

Thanks!

Do you happen to have any photos of the spot where the vent hose (that goes to the carbon cannister) attaches to the tank?

so the workshop manual and some other videos I saw said to remove that back behind the spare tire (and one mentioned they needed to remove the spare to get to it). I could never find it (and didnt enjoy having my head under the rear axle) so I removed them at the tank side instead. much easier. I removed the other one near the transfer case but ended up removing it from the tank as well, so it was sorta a waste of time to disconnect it back near the transfer case. both those hoses would need to get fished back into place over the frame, which is sorta a pain given the tight space. so I think removing both from the tank is the way easier route to go. its more connections to remove, but they are all in front of you once you lower the tank so easier to remove and reinstall.

so the method I uses was as follows:

- remove the heat shield
- remove the main fill hose (get a buck or towels as fuel will spill)
- remove the 2 rear vent hoses and electrical wire from the clips holding it to the side of the tank. this will give you more slack to drop the tank.
- remove one or both of the front fuel delivery pipes. I could only get to one with the tank still up, and removed the other as I was dropping the tank.
- now start slowly dropping the tank with a jack. monitor to make sure you have slack in your hoses. once I had it down 1 ft I had more room to remove the other front connector. and remove the rear hoses from their clips on the top of the tank. this gave plenty of slack to drop the tank all the way to the ground with the 3 connections on the rear of the tank still connected.
- that gave me much better view and leverage to remove the rear hose connections from the tank. you have the electrical harness which just required a flat head screwdriver to pop the clip. then you have the two vent hoses. one vent hose has 2 connections to the tank in the front and rear. very easy to remove with push clips. the other big vent hose unclips at the flange.
- now your tank is fully clear and you have no hoses flopping around since they are still all connected to the car. I then slide it out under the car to get the flange cleaned and opened.

In the picture below you are looking from the front of the tank to the rear. the 3 rear connection points are visible hanging down, the one larger vent hose, the smaller one and the electrical harness. the smaller vent disconnects from the top of the tank in two spots. you can see the valve (I think called the rollover valve) at the rear of the tank. there is an identical one at the front of the tank. just disconnect that hose from there. you can also see in that pic if you disconnect those hoses back near the diff, you need to fish them up over the frame. seemed like a way bigger pain in the ass than my method.

 

[thebruce]

Thanks. I had my dealership do the software update as well, but it came back after a few days.

Was the sensor on the frame rail, right in front of the fuel tank? Where did you get the pump and sensor, have any links/suppliers you'd recommend?

This is the only video I've seen that goes into detail - though it was not the SCV6 model I'm thinking it'll be a very similar process.

that sensor I dont exactly know, but yes its in that vicinity (and I think fairly easy to replace). the dealer replaced that when they did the fuel flange recall, but that didnt help the situation. its in the workshop manual and I can look it up if you need.

for the pump I got the VDO. I think it was like $170. https://www.autohausaz.com/pn/A2C53323174Z

the workshop manual nor any of the videos I saw, including that one you linked show what the inside of the SVC6 tank looks like. caused a lot of confusion for me initially. the fuel filter is mounted on the top of the tank (not attached to the flange like some videos show of the LR3), but directly mounted to the top of the tank. you need to remove that first to get the pump out. the pump looks the same as the videos, but nobody explains you need to twist the pump to unlock it from the mounting clips and then remove the fuel float from the old pump to put in the new pump. I initially mounted my float upside down because I didnt take enough pics pulling stuff out. took me a solid 1+ hour of trying to figure out how to get that fuel filter out, then back in. I was baffled.

but its easy if you know how it all works. I have pics of that fuel filter location and how it's mounted on rubber rails. you just pull it towards you and it slides off the track and then can be removed. install same way (but its hard to see the mounting rails inside the tank so I had to stick my phone down in the gas tank to take pictures to see what I was doing).