New Problems

[cyberegg]

I think I have bigger problems now than O2 sensors. I was accelerating down the highway when it shuddered a little bit, in fact my first thought was I had a tire going flat. I took my foot off the accelerator while I ruled that out. When I pressed on the pedal again, there was no response, no power, nothing. Engine was still running, though roughly. I started to pull over, and was on the shoulder when the engine died, (still had electrical – the radio was on) and I coasted / braked (no power) to a stop. Puzzled, I tried to start it. It was hard to hear over the traffic noise going by, but it made a chattering, clanking noise and wouldn’t start. Ended up having my truck towed home.

I gave it a quick look over it this morning before I went to work, and plugged in my OBD. Only code was P1191, HO2 Heater circuit open, downstream sensors. Spark plugs and wires were tight (both are a year old). Fuses were fine. Vacuum hoses OK. No obvious sign of anything wrong. I was able to start it by giving it a lot of gas, and pumping the accelerator. It made a funny whirring noise while starting, runs very rough, and died when I let it idle. My first thought was the timing chain broke, but since it starts, have ruled that out.

Yesterday I added a can of Seafoam to the gas, and was planning on doing the treatment this weekend. Hah, famous last words. Would the Seafoam cause something? Would the O2 sensors screw it up badly enough to stall it? Any ideas or opinions on what may have happened or what to check? Anybody else experience something similar? This is a new one on me. Thanks.

 

[cyberegg]

Not looking good, I'm waiting for a neighbor to come over so I can do a compression check. I'm hearing a clacking noise, can't hear exactly where it's coming from, but think it's under the valve covers. They look to be a b**** to take off to see what's up underneath. Something is definitely loose or broken.

Anyone know a good LR mechanic on the big island of Hawaii? Dave Dunlap, my previous guru mechanic has moved away. Dave, where are you when I need you????

 

[RoverChic]

Check your VSS also. The valve covers remove via a 8mm 12 point socket (IIRC). Bad Cats maybe - Sounds like the downstream 02 sensors have gone south. The down stream sensors usually only monitor the catalytic converters. Check the fuel pump, fuel pump relay, as well as the injectors. Do you smell gas? Are you blowing smoke? Blue or Black in color if any @ all? Did you here a back fire? Let us know what you find out.

 

[cyberegg]

Thanks RC for getting back to me - I was already planning on replacing the O2 sensors.

Here's the latest: I have gas (can smell it and hear the fuel pump working), I have spark and air. Starter is OK, too, I'm pretty sure that's the whirring sound I hear. It will start, but won't keep idling, and dies. It is making a LOUD, clanking, metal to metal, mechanical blender (a metal margarita?) noise - I can't seem to determine where it's coming from, other than the engine block. Can't tell if it is top end or bottom end.

I tried to do a compression test - this is embarrassing- after all my years doing casual mechanical work, I'll be damned if I can't perform a reliable compression test. From what I could tell, compression is good all the way around.

Also, I can't see what kind of exhaust I'm getting - can't get back there before it dies. It still isn't giving me any OBD codes other than the O2 ones. I'm wondering if the Seafoam in the gas loosened up something, but I used some Chemtool last year when I tuned it up. The spark plugs have a little carbon on them, but not bad.

My diagnostic skills are not the best, once I know what is wrong, I can usually fix it, or die trying. I have a little voice in my head that says I can fix it, but when I hear the noise the engine is making, I'm not so sure.

Please help......

 

[Moose]

Drain oil, drop pan, clean pan, replace pickup tube, refill oil. You don't have oil in the top end of your engine. It's probably due to deposits and sludge blocking the good oil from going into the pickup tube.

 

[cyberegg]

OK, I'll do that today. Read how to do it in my Haynes manual. What do people use for silicon sealant / gasket type of sealant to reseat the pan with? I doubt I'll be able to find the Hylosil suggested in the manual. And when you say "replace pickup tube" I'm assuming cleaning it and replacing it, not buy a new one.

Thanks Moose

 

[RoverChic]

Is your red oil light on? They make a gasket sealer @ AutoZone or any parts store. Maybe you should add some ATF or Seafoam to help clear out the pan and all the gunk. Just a thought. Good Luck Summer. Let us know what happens.

 

[cyberegg]

No idiot lites came on before or now....And I did find the silicone seal, at walmart, they even had oil filters for LR's. How does one check a VSS?
I got as far as getting all the bolts out, running a blade around the edge, giving it a couple whacks with a rubber mallet, but can't seem to loosen the pan. Moose, got any techniques to seperate the pan?

I'm reluctant to order and replace the O2 sensors until I get this taken care of.

It also looks like someone may have dropped it before, there was a lot of silicone seal. Last year, when I changed the oil for the first time, I pulled out an inch square metal shard...who knows what else is in there?

I just want to get my baby running again. I only have one vehicle, it. Luckily a friend offered to let me use their car for a week while they are gone. Otherwise I'd be riding my bicycle or hitchiking. I've been having so much fun with her, I don't want to loose her.

 

[Moose]

I was lucky, it only took running a knife blade along the edges to get it to come loose.

Hmmmm....try using a small screwdriver and wedging it in there and levering it off.

Loose metal in the oil is not a good thing. Hopefully this will help you clear out the pan and see what else is in the lubrication system...

 

[cyberegg]

OK, got the oil pan loose...

Now I'm dealing with what the Haynes manual calls "track rod". I've looked at previous postings, and saw where others have referred to loosening and swinging down the sway bar. Is the track rod same as the sway bar? What I would've thought was the sway bar the Haynes manual calls "anti-roll bar".

Do I have to remove both bars, whateverthey'recalled? Or can I remove just one? Which bar is easiest to remove? I'm not looking forward to monkeying with the ball joints. Could someone help me with the translation, or let me know what I what I need to loosen or remove?

Got the steering damper / stabilizer removed OK. Sergei was right about oil, it gives a whole new meaning to "conditioning oil treatment for your hair"