Daniele Gardellin
Member
Every 10.000km
oil change frequency poll under normal driving conditions
- Thread starter ttforcefed
- Start date
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ttforcefed
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5w-20 is an odd oil in a day and age where 0w-40 is readily available. is there any rational as to why 5w 20 might be better? 0 is better at startup and 40 is better at operating temps
This engine was specifically designed for 5W-20, and a particular formulation of 5W-20 as well. Don't use any other viscosity unless you're willing to deal with the possible consequences...
ttforcefed
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to be honest i dont buy that an engine was designed for a certain oil...its a bunch of moving metal parts - what wld 0w40 impact?
Izzyandsue
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My random thoughts:
True, some engine manufacturers do partner in an Extended Enterprise model with oil (and other components) manufacturers and design the engine as a system together, optimize the whole. They may then specify to use oil XYZ for the engine, and it is an investment from the oil manufacturer to become the "only" oil to be used in the engine. Its both and engineering and marketing arrangement. Other oil manufacturers do not have the deep pockets to complete the "rigorous testing" to certify their oil to match some new requirements, the revenue/cost may not make sense to them, even though their oils might be just as good or better.
Other engines do not, to your point, and are just moving parts that need friction reduction via oil to be at a certain temp and viscosity. And surely you can use different rated oils depending on the mileage of the engine, wear and tear, and the outside temps you have to deal with. The risks are that the oil system is designed for a specific viscosity and various temps (Rheology), and the engineers will size all the components based on needs with Poiseuille flow (as an engineer who has made this mistake first hand, I embarrassingly know). If you use lower viscosity, the fluid when heated may flow faster and no longer work as a Poiseuille equations would predict, but more like water, Newtonian fluid. And you may end up with cavitation, low fluid, low pressure, over heating, etc. If you are in very cold areas, using 0 weight oil in winter might be fine, even recommended for startups. But as soon as the motor gets to operating temp it may have have issues. Same goes for hot climates, a heavier oil may work to keep the engine lubricated. Up to you to test it. When in doubt, use the manufacturer's recommended weight. If worried, find the specific brand and spec recommended. If in dire straights, use what you need. In the end your truck so you can take your risks, but its always better to be risk-informed in my opinion.
True, some engine manufacturers do partner in an Extended Enterprise model with oil (and other components) manufacturers and design the engine as a system together, optimize the whole. They may then specify to use oil XYZ for the engine, and it is an investment from the oil manufacturer to become the "only" oil to be used in the engine. Its both and engineering and marketing arrangement. Other oil manufacturers do not have the deep pockets to complete the "rigorous testing" to certify their oil to match some new requirements, the revenue/cost may not make sense to them, even though their oils might be just as good or better.
Other engines do not, to your point, and are just moving parts that need friction reduction via oil to be at a certain temp and viscosity. And surely you can use different rated oils depending on the mileage of the engine, wear and tear, and the outside temps you have to deal with. The risks are that the oil system is designed for a specific viscosity and various temps (Rheology), and the engineers will size all the components based on needs with Poiseuille flow (as an engineer who has made this mistake first hand, I embarrassingly know). If you use lower viscosity, the fluid when heated may flow faster and no longer work as a Poiseuille equations would predict, but more like water, Newtonian fluid. And you may end up with cavitation, low fluid, low pressure, over heating, etc. If you are in very cold areas, using 0 weight oil in winter might be fine, even recommended for startups. But as soon as the motor gets to operating temp it may have have issues. Same goes for hot climates, a heavier oil may work to keep the engine lubricated. Up to you to test it. When in doubt, use the manufacturer's recommended weight. If worried, find the specific brand and spec recommended. If in dire straights, use what you need. In the end your truck so you can take your risks, but its always better to be risk-informed in my opinion.
The oil is used to control the variable valve timing, and variable valve lift, in the AJ133 V8 engine in our 2010-2013 LR4's. Different viscosities could affect operation of these systems. If the engine was designed for a particular oil viscosity and no other viscosity is approved, don't try to out-think the engineers.
Note the FSM does not allow any other viscosity for the V8... see attached screenshot.
Duplicate post - sorry! I don't see an option to delete, maybe an admin can remove this?
Last edited:
Felixlatorre
Active Member
At leas OMO and a research I made, I found for 2016 SCV6 0W20 a Ravenol 0W20 who claim a LR full specifications
And I change it every 7500 miles instead of 15k like the manual said.
And I change it every 7500 miles instead of 15k like the manual said.
Bogwhoppit
Full Access Member
I think the only surefire way, especially if you bought a used Landy like I did, is to Blackstone test your oil sample if you are worried about wear. The one thing our Landies have going for them is a lot of oil capacity, so viscosity/dirt by volume will be less.
