Performance for the Discovery

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R

roverX

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Will, I'm not sure how loud it actually is but it can't be that loud. I am running a glass pack straight off the Ypipe with no rear resonator and I am not that loud.
 

beemer

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It is not loud, I can just hear the wife drive by the house when i'm in the back yard with her at 25 mph in 3rd just maintaining speed. I know my car sounds and can detect a FE motor, early Porsche or a same year Speedster motor. In the cab you get a growling sound knowing your making power at full throttle at 3,500-5,000 but again this cat back with Borla I installed with the 3.9 and it never sounded this strong, totally different with the 4.6 motor installed plus CarSound High Flow Cats I installed. I can have fun with those newer 4.6 D1 or D2 or what ever they call these series slush box turds including the new Range Rovers except the supercharded Range Rover as I have the 5 speed, stiff springs, shocks and way oversize swaybars. Not only that I had the heads rebuilt correctly by a Top Fuel engine shop that knows and has worked on these POS Rover heads with their facrory bubble gum patch jobs of sticking valves and their **** poor port alignments. I have new seats, valves, guides and seals. I made a jig to dress the rocker pads to square contact on the valve stem tips and rocker pads. Then polished to like chrome. Port matched the intake after having the head, ports corrected and cleaned up. I recurved the dizzy plus added a vacuum advance can as the Rover unit is a overpriced POS I had two fail over the years. This new can came from Oz and has more total advance. Cleaned up the exhaust head ports then matched the iron manifolds. Blended inside at the collector of the manifolds as well the down pipes. Must look stock for Calif. smog plus run Crane's 25 ohm per/ft ignition wires. The above post on ignition wires not legal in Calif. is a B/S statement! Removed the hour glass restrictor Borla placed inside their mufflers, this restricted flow to 55%. Ground all welds inside the exhaust system and Tig welded on the outside as this is Borla's stainless system. Got hold of a complete spare intake manifold hat and injectors incluced for $50. A shipping agreement price. Took the plenum base, band sawed the pan off and sanded smooth so I only have a 8 hole plate then added longer bolts and another gasket then assembled. Bead blasted it looks like a stock casting. Adding this with the factory 3.9 plenum base flap wheel sanded smooth full runner length allowed for a longer intake track this lowered the torque at 3,100 to (on paper) by 275 rpm's less. It still pulls hard to 5,800 until the rev limiter kicks in on the RPI Tornado chip with RPI cam.Yes from long ago it had a drone more in the back seating area. I cut and installed a Vibrant Ultra silent resonator. It reduced 75% of the drone. A 4 3/4" x 6 1/2" oval x 9 3/4" long unit. This just after the rear tire before the bend and the bell at the exhaust tip Borla has. Above 2,450 rpm's the drone is gone 100% but then i'm over the speed limit as there is a lot of 50 mph in my area. A polished like chrome full stainless resonstor inside a tube full of many small holes not this louver crap that restricts more as exhaust volume increases. On the highway when another slushbox Disco wants to play at 60 mph i'll do a 5-3 and get on it and play games then dust 'em. This Disco is nothing like the 520ci MPI I built for the 68 F250 Camper Special with 602 ft/lbs TQ mild 482 HP on the dyno, and only 2 mpg less but more fun. I must update on the Rover, so far it still runs great except the Borla muffler. The guts inside the Borla's 1,000,000 mile muffler fell apart, sounded like I had 4 cups of 1/2" rocks rattling around, you can hear this muffler 500' away. People asking the wife your cars falling apart what's wrong with it? A POS she would not drive.
I called Borla and told them my problem with their muffler, was told by a engineer that they have a 4% failure rate. With 17 phone calls and 3 1/2 months fighting them they told me I found the muffler in the wrecking yard. Yeah sure it also came with the warrantee card taped to the muffler in clean white condition also I told them. Was then told a copy machine can produce 1,000 warrantee cards. I even sent the Visa billing and order copy from the company that I mail ordered their Borla Cat Back system from. A Borla replacement with all this added paperwork still a NO! This time my attorney friend sent them a letter representing me, this sent to the son of Mr. Borla himself. I had to purchase a second muffler and get a Visa credit back after they received the old muffler and check it out. They said I must of went off road and smashed in the muffler. Hell I polish it besides take my wheels off and wax the backsides of the rims, this is a street vehicle only no dirt and yes i'm a nut. Back to the motor, I have two 45 degree 3" rubber hoses from a 84-87 4 cylinder Mustang intake, made a offset from the airbox that sticks thru the hole behind the left headlight. This is cold ram air area behind the grill and to the side of the radiator support. In the hot water coolant hose that goes just under the throttle plate that gets hot within 90 seconds and burn your hand is a brass slug with a 1/16" hole. I read on average 72 degrees with the Fluke temp meter. A true cold ram air intake that I can feel the difference over the stock snorkel sucking hot underhood air. Takes 2 minutes to convert to stock. TPS holes slotted and adjusted per volt meter spes by RIP to run fatter. Best part more power plus better mpg by 2 at most. Never found top end as needle spins past the numbers this with stock tire diameters. Oh so much fun on the highway at 7-10K feet passing chebbies with the honk of the air horn as blow on by. Oh I run a 4.6 air flow meter, back to stock for a smog test. Also a adjustable slug restrictor for a cold start fast idle of only 780 rpm's. Look at the 1986 735 3.5 litre BMW's (I had one) it ran hard at 8.0 compression ratio. It is in the breathing from air intake to tailpipe to make power. With this
warrantee 7/100K mile coverage they replaced the old 3.9, I got the 4.6 and saved them almost $400 plus while the motor was apart had my shop do the heads correctly.
Seats coming apart at 126K miles, 3 of 5 door lock springs broken, right visor swings down in face, new steel U joint rear driveshaft added no rubber crap, transfer case whines, diffs are sloppy with backlash, they do this when brand new. Fun for jerking and creaping in traffic. Value, none, money spent by me in repairs $13K. Drive it until it gets smashed then chop it up. Motor goes in the P1800 Volvo. Steering box is the same Bendix POS that Ford used in pickups only 1967-early 69 as they leaked on the input shaft and twitchy at speed. Ford sold their junk steering box to Rover. I'll shut up now. as the wife hates this vehicle and wants to drive it off a cliff, she will pick the next vehicle she said from China must be better than this Rover. She has been stranded 9 times since 1 of 2000. A town car only on a 1/2 x 4 1/2 mile island. Bus runs in town to get her home. Sorry to sound bitter as I tried to make something out of this thing. Down to one slight oil leak the valve covers, stopped the other 6 leaks except the wet passengers feet up front when it rains or if it get a bath. Oh ABS light comes on with a code dealers and Rover of North America do not know what it is. An't that nice? Can't figure out the fault codes I have not also even with the owning the Factory Service Manual and a Complete Service Parts Manual with every part made with a number on it for this 95 Disco. Sorry done venting I need a pint or two.
 
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wolf

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As brought up by a fellow disco owner in a different post ... What are ways of increasing performance in a Discovery????

One way that comes to mind is a K&N Air Filter, although the ads always seem to over exaggerate the amount of performance. They are usually pretty cheap. WATCH OUT and DON'T over oil them or they will mess you up!

Another way is the chips that people put in their Discoverys.

You can super charge it, or turbo charge it, or strap missiles to the back of it. All will make it go faster.

Any other ideas?

I am ditching my K&N precisely because of the oil-on-MAF sensor issue and I am moving over to a monster AFE paper filter system matched up to my ARB Safari snorkel. The basic theory being: - good free-flowing exhaust needs to be matched at the air intake end of things; I'll let you know how this intake system works out down the road (perf and MPG wise).

Wolf
 

Ugly

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I was thinking of buying a piper cam. Problem is, the entire engine will have to be rebuilt. Because I don't want the old style cylinder sleeves to eventually move. Especially after I have the top rebuilt. So I was thinking I might drive it til it dies. Then get a buick 300 crank and 3.9 con rods and bore it .020 over. Install a piper cam and force this thing to make some power. I just dont know if ZF20 can handle it. Does anyone know how much hp an automatic can handle?
 

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