Cable run to the rear--
I selected a 2 Ga. paired cable from POLAR WIRE PRODUCTS, 888 245-WIRE
I often do overkill and find the hardest way to do things. The large cable makes routing more difficult. 4 Ga would have been just fine.
I removed the foot well kick panel by pulling back the rubber door seal covering the edge of the kick panel and the footrest. I removed the rear and front portion of the door floor cover. I recovered the metal clips that remained in the holes fixing the floor strip. I did not find a channel to run my size wires under the door strip. I fed a welding wire from back to front in the driver’s side door channel under the plastic wire guide. I pulled the paired wire through the channel. I pulled off the B pillar cover. I laid the paired wire along the door sill. I popped up the rear door plastic wire channel cover. I forced the gap open with two screwdriver handles. I had to force the paired wire to rotate 90 degrees and fit into the space available at the base of the B pillar. I then fed the wire into the popped up rear door channel. I pulled the weather strip off of the plastic cover behind the rear door. I forced open the plastic and fed the paired wire through the side plastic panel. I was able to see the wire and pull the wire into the rear access panel. In the rear area, I used a razor knife to cut the carpet and foam under the edge of the side plastic panel. I ran the wire pair and the ham radio speaker, head wire, and antenna wire in the cut carpet slot. I used a 1/8” ABS plastic for the mounting floor in the space under the deck. The flexibility allowed fitting and removal with the components bolted in place.
I found the plug in the drivers side firewall. It is tucked up high near the power brake booster. Without removing many things, the plug cannot be touched by hand.
I pried out the plug with a long rod. I punched through the inside insulation with a wire. I was then able to see the inside location by lying on my back in the foot well and shining a flashlight upward. I used a 3/4” hole saw and turned it by hand to cut a hole in padding from the engine side. I used a 1 3/8” chassis hole cutter , which has a ¾” bolt, to cut a larger hole in the firewall metal and padding. I reached up and used a razor knife to hack some of padding away from the hole. I found a 1 3/8” grommet with a small hole at the hardware store. I drilled and carved out a clearance hole to fit the paired 2 Ga wire. I tried three ways to get the paired wire through the hole and get the grommet seated on the raw cut hole in the firewall. With the grommet on the cable, grommet from the back, grommet from the front and grommet in the hole first. Only the grommet in the hole first, worked. I used a lot of silicone spray. I was able to turn the wire 90 degrees and feed the wire through the grommet. I then carefully inched the remainder of the cable through the grommet so as not to pull the grommet out of the positioning groove. I am using the Traxide 160, so I needed to feed the module control wire back through the grommet to the display box. I was able to push the wire from the engine compartment side with a 1/8” welding wire with the wire taped to the end. Again using silicone spray. When finished, I used a clear plastic tube 1 1/4" diameter about 10" long to protect the 2 Ga. pair as it passes the power brake booster.
I selected a 2 Ga. paired cable from POLAR WIRE PRODUCTS, 888 245-WIRE
I often do overkill and find the hardest way to do things. The large cable makes routing more difficult. 4 Ga would have been just fine.
I removed the foot well kick panel by pulling back the rubber door seal covering the edge of the kick panel and the footrest. I removed the rear and front portion of the door floor cover. I recovered the metal clips that remained in the holes fixing the floor strip. I did not find a channel to run my size wires under the door strip. I fed a welding wire from back to front in the driver’s side door channel under the plastic wire guide. I pulled the paired wire through the channel. I pulled off the B pillar cover. I laid the paired wire along the door sill. I popped up the rear door plastic wire channel cover. I forced the gap open with two screwdriver handles. I had to force the paired wire to rotate 90 degrees and fit into the space available at the base of the B pillar. I then fed the wire into the popped up rear door channel. I pulled the weather strip off of the plastic cover behind the rear door. I forced open the plastic and fed the paired wire through the side plastic panel. I was able to see the wire and pull the wire into the rear access panel. In the rear area, I used a razor knife to cut the carpet and foam under the edge of the side plastic panel. I ran the wire pair and the ham radio speaker, head wire, and antenna wire in the cut carpet slot. I used a 1/8” ABS plastic for the mounting floor in the space under the deck. The flexibility allowed fitting and removal with the components bolted in place.
I found the plug in the drivers side firewall. It is tucked up high near the power brake booster. Without removing many things, the plug cannot be touched by hand.
I pried out the plug with a long rod. I punched through the inside insulation with a wire. I was then able to see the inside location by lying on my back in the foot well and shining a flashlight upward. I used a 3/4” hole saw and turned it by hand to cut a hole in padding from the engine side. I used a 1 3/8” chassis hole cutter , which has a ¾” bolt, to cut a larger hole in the firewall metal and padding. I reached up and used a razor knife to hack some of padding away from the hole. I found a 1 3/8” grommet with a small hole at the hardware store. I drilled and carved out a clearance hole to fit the paired 2 Ga wire. I tried three ways to get the paired wire through the hole and get the grommet seated on the raw cut hole in the firewall. With the grommet on the cable, grommet from the back, grommet from the front and grommet in the hole first. Only the grommet in the hole first, worked. I used a lot of silicone spray. I was able to turn the wire 90 degrees and feed the wire through the grommet. I then carefully inched the remainder of the cable through the grommet so as not to pull the grommet out of the positioning groove. I am using the Traxide 160, so I needed to feed the module control wire back through the grommet to the display box. I was able to push the wire from the engine compartment side with a 1/8” welding wire with the wire taped to the end. Again using silicone spray. When finished, I used a clear plastic tube 1 1/4" diameter about 10" long to protect the 2 Ga. pair as it passes the power brake booster.
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