Preventive Maintenance Questions

[dthomp87]

So I've had my 2005 LR3 for about 8 months now an I'm really enjoying it more and more, at first it was kinda just a fun car I always wanted and planned on just keeping it for a year or two, but now I think I'd like to keep this vehicle forever. Its got 139k on the clock, and hopefully It could last another decade. I like to do all the work myself.

So far I've done the following:

Sunroof Drain Fix
Rear Hatch Fix
Remote Fob Wire fix
Key Fob Rebuild
Front Diff breather
Front and Rear Diff Fluid
Transfer Case fluid
rear sway bushings
front lower control arms
Air Compressor Rebuild
Front Right Shock Replacement
Brake Switch
New Rotors and Pads all around

I have a new PCV valve coming in the mail, as I saw quite a bit of engine oil in the intake plenum, I hope thats all the issue is, Its not consuming any oil. Anybody knowledgable about this?

I have the transmission fault, Traction Reduced error.. I believe is the rear locker having issues. I did remove the acutator and took it apart and cleaned it to see if i could get it working, but I still have the error (was a b*tch to remove) Going to get the IID Gap Tool at some point so that should help me figure out whats going on. I figure its fine for now so Im not in a rush.

Next I'd like to tackle the cooling system in hopes the engine lasts another 150k miles. I dont want to spend unessisary money, but I want to do the job right. How much should I replace? replace the hoses, or just replace the t-stat? New radiator? Flush? I see the t-stat typiclly includes the housing as well, is this something that goes bad often?

Any other items that need servicing that im not thinking about? I think there is no Fuel filter but how is that possible?

Im on the fence about what to do with the tranny, it shifts great and i dont want to mess it up, ive already come to terms with the fact that i will need a rebuild at some point if i really want to keep the truck that long. should I do the full service or leave it? No way of knowing if its ever been serviced?

Id like to continue putting money into the truck and make it into heavy duty beast, but I'm hesitant too much money into it if the engine and trany are going to blow in the next 30k miles. let me know your thoughts.

 

[Houm_WA]

I'd address that transmission issue (rear diff motor) sooner rather than later; I think mine led to having faulty clutch packs in my rear diff; needed replacement eventually.

I got my tranny fluid flushed and filled but left the pan/filter alone. That could be an avenue for you.

 

[drew]

I would say drain and fill the tranny. Replace the filter. For the love of God, replace the filter. I would look into an all aluminum radiator and a stand alone transmission cooler. It turns out, these transmissions are prone to glycol contamination.

 

[dthomp87]

After some further inspection, I am going to replace the two drive belts, the thermostat housing, Seal for oil filter housing mount, and the transmission filter and fluid. Also I need new Sway bar end links all around and front sway bushings as im getting some slop when I hit uneven bumps. Do you think the tie rods, inner and outer, are okay at this milage? Or should i do those as well to tighten everything up?

About the rear diff, it would make sense that it were the clutch pads going bad. Is this something a GAP tool will tell me with certainty? Whats the fix here full replacement or rebuild? If its going to need replacing at some point and the clutch pads are bad, is there any harm driving like it is until I feel like getting that done? I hear a clunk in the rear when i shift from reverse to park, is this gear slop or normal?

thanks again.

 

[Houm_WA]

Is that clunk not just the Transmission Pawl giving? I use the EPB when I'm on an incline to take the weight off the pawl. Not sure about the diff. I was getting a reading off my GAP Tool when my clutch packs went bad...I think. It was either then or after I'd got a new diff but got two "soft faults" that ****** me off. I delved into it with the GAP tool and it gave me a code like "Clutch Positions not learnt" so I then learned that the locker actuator didn't come with the diff. So I changed it. The diff, before that, was making a "clank" sound in certain conditions when you'd expect it may be locking.