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CREDITS: Andy Maier
This weekend I had the pleasure of listening to my mufflerless 1996 D1 after the exhaust pipe separated between the catalytic converter and muffler.
Here's a quick and easy fix to the problem, which likely centers around a metal coupler between the two parts:
For this fix, you'll need:
(a) Reciprocating saw / Sawzall
(b) Angle grinder with general purpose discs;
(c) 2 1/2" (inside dia.) coupler pipe;
(d) (2) pipe clamps / brackets; and
(e) 3 beers.
This repair job is also what you'll likely need to do if you want to put an aftermarket muffler (Flowmaster 70 Series, for example) on your truck without spending an arm and a leg.
Here's what to do:
(1) Use reciprocating saw to cut through the bolts in the coupler -- you won't need them;
(2) Remove muffler from underneath car (it's hung on there with rubber hangers, which you can manipulate loose), remove "back" coupler half;
(3) Cut/grind lip off of catalytic converter side of coupler, allowing "front" half of coupler to come off;
(4) Slide 2 1/2" (inside dia.) coupler pipe (any auto store for about $1.98 -- you want the one that's about 4" long) over cat end
(5) Slide pipe bracket (any auto store for about $1.50) over cat end and hand tighten);
(6) Slide second bracket onto "back" end of coupler pipe -- leave loose for now;
(6) Move muffler end back into place, sliding muffler pipe inside coupler pipe
(7) Slide other bracket over muffler pipe, hand tighten;
(8) Make sure everything is lined up --
(a) Make sure that the coupler pipe overlaps the muffler and cat ends of pipe -- you need at least the width of the brackets but you'll likely have more than enough;
(b) Make sure brackets are going to tighten onto both coupler pipe and muffler/cat pipe
(9) Tighten nuts on brackets and viola! Repaired exhaust!
NOTE: You could use the exhaust tape available at most auto parts stores in addition to the coupler pipe. After placing the coupler pipe in place, but before tightening the brackets, wrap the tape over the cat pipe, coupler pipe, and muffler pipe, and then tighten down the brackets. This is an optional step of course, which may help with heat-related oxidation over time and perhaps noise.
This weekend I had the pleasure of listening to my mufflerless 1996 D1 after the exhaust pipe separated between the catalytic converter and muffler.
Here's a quick and easy fix to the problem, which likely centers around a metal coupler between the two parts:
For this fix, you'll need:
(a) Reciprocating saw / Sawzall
(b) Angle grinder with general purpose discs;
(c) 2 1/2" (inside dia.) coupler pipe;
(d) (2) pipe clamps / brackets; and
(e) 3 beers.
This repair job is also what you'll likely need to do if you want to put an aftermarket muffler (Flowmaster 70 Series, for example) on your truck without spending an arm and a leg.
Here's what to do:
(1) Use reciprocating saw to cut through the bolts in the coupler -- you won't need them;
(2) Remove muffler from underneath car (it's hung on there with rubber hangers, which you can manipulate loose), remove "back" coupler half;
(3) Cut/grind lip off of catalytic converter side of coupler, allowing "front" half of coupler to come off;
(4) Slide 2 1/2" (inside dia.) coupler pipe (any auto store for about $1.98 -- you want the one that's about 4" long) over cat end
(5) Slide pipe bracket (any auto store for about $1.50) over cat end and hand tighten);
(6) Slide second bracket onto "back" end of coupler pipe -- leave loose for now;
(6) Move muffler end back into place, sliding muffler pipe inside coupler pipe
(7) Slide other bracket over muffler pipe, hand tighten;
(8) Make sure everything is lined up --
(a) Make sure that the coupler pipe overlaps the muffler and cat ends of pipe -- you need at least the width of the brackets but you'll likely have more than enough;
(b) Make sure brackets are going to tighten onto both coupler pipe and muffler/cat pipe
(9) Tighten nuts on brackets and viola! Repaired exhaust!
NOTE: You could use the exhaust tape available at most auto parts stores in addition to the coupler pipe. After placing the coupler pipe in place, but before tightening the brackets, wrap the tape over the cat pipe, coupler pipe, and muffler pipe, and then tighten down the brackets. This is an optional step of course, which may help with heat-related oxidation over time and perhaps noise.
