RS sliders help

[thorgal]

Hi to you all.

I recently purchased a opt.2 RS sliders .After reading all the instructions I proceeded with installation.took me 3 hours as previously posted.I was very proud with my job and began to ride across NJ to show my new pride and joy.I might be the only guy with these sliders,but this fact does not bother me at all,what really bothers me is clunk underneath the vehicle .sounds like a noise comes from rear area in between wheels,sometimes it appears on rear right sometimes right in the center of my vehicle.I checked every possible loose object that may sound like it including removing all my stuff from the trunk,scissor lift,checked gates,third row seats,bushings,loose compressor cover,tighten up all the screws ,and body bolts..etc.At the end , I was left with only possible option , to remove the sliders one by one to diagnose a problem even further .I took right one down , drove a little and clank still apparent so I took left one out ,drove as usual and to my surprise no more clunk.Do any of you had to modify sliders in any way to reduce a clanking , touching a frame on bumps,clanking in any point due to stress ,fast articulation,used some rubber pieces to deaden a clunk caused by a sliders banging against door sill of rear wheel arch? Please help I don't wont to wade in the dark,tring to pin point a problem by multiple install and disassemble.Am I the only one with this unfit protection piece?Please advice.

 

[roverman]

Don't stress, I'm sure someone will be on soon to help you. I know I've read something about this, but can't remember exactly what it was. Try searching, or just sit tight and wait for the cavalry!

 

[nwoods]

On my prototype sliders, I used a small shim of rubber, but I didn't need to do that on my production units

 

[thorgal]

I finally realized ,when i took down passenger side slider,than clank actually comes from drivers side of the back of my vehicle.

 

[Trynian]

I put rubber strips down the length of the slider between the frame beam and the slider. I didn't have a clunk but was seeing metal on metal grinding causiong the paint to get rubbed off and rusting.

Check the top compressor covver to see if is banging around loose.

Keep workng with it you will get it worked out.

You can try banging around with a rubber hammer to see if you can find the exact spot.

 

[thorgal]

Another thing that I discovered, taking down sliders, was that after starting the engine my NAVI+ whole radio unit did not worked.I tried to soft rebooted,but still no power in both units.Finally took out 3 of the fuses out that I thought are responsible for these toys ne30amp,one 15 and one 10 amps but there all were fine .so I plugged them back ,started my car and power was BACK.I think this is all due to my disconnecting a battery twice that day,just the NEGATIVE lead, but still.Is it really necessary to unplug this end since we play with frame lugs, or you guys don't really bother with it.?

 

[Trynian]

I don't bother with the battery.

 

[thorgal]

I was thinking about using flat rubber cargo ties as silencers ,along entire lengths of both frames, 'when sliders touch them .I think they about 1/4 inch thick and maybe run a strip along door sill when sliders overlap the frame .There is a actual gap in beetwen a slider and place when those pesky yellow clips use to be .by the way , dealer wants 4.50 each if you need to reattach old plastic trim back.

 

[Trynian]

I used this between the frame and slider. .125" X 2.00" X 36.00" Strip

http://www.rubbersheetroll.com/epdm-rubber-high-strength.html

Mostly just because the metal on metal rubbing was taking the paint off the frame and I live by the ocean so they were rusting quick.

I bought a bunch of extra clips form my dealer for about $1.60 each. But you really only need 2 on each side to hold the stock seal covers on. If your sliders fit anything like mine that gap down the side does not run the full length. Just some towards the front.

 

[thorgal]

Thanks for this link,i might order a piece.Pricey though.