I actually took the two lines off of the throttle body and connected them together so there is still flow, just not through the throttle body. Some have been talking about the benefits of cold air intakes, so I'm kinda wondering if a cooler throttle body will help any. Anyway, I did get the repair kit in case I want to go back to stock.
I also did what Joey suggested and cleaned the MAF sensor with electrical contact cleaner. Took the whole thing apart and really hosed it good, then let dry for a long time.
I also took a heat gun to the warped air cleaner box and was able to form it back into shape. It appears that it is sealing, but I guess time will tell. I think what happened is the guy I bought it from had put the lid on wrong and with time and heat from the motor, it warped. I noticed it when I put the new K&N filter in, I had wrestle with the lid to get it on but thought it looked OK. I think the real contamination was from before this.
Maybe this is just my imagination, but it actually seemed to have more low end power when I put it all back together. Wondering if that may be because the air-fuel mixture is better now because the MAF is functioning properly.
Took the radiator out yesterday and got it to the shop just in time for closing. I'm waiting for them to call now so I can go put it back in. Kind of tough comming out, but not too bad using the shop manual. I just hope the shop does'nt tell me it can't be fixed because I don't know where I'm going to find a radiator on a weekend and my truck is hogging up my buddie's shop.
One last thing that I wanted to run by the group.
The most expensive thing wrong with my truck is the shuttle valve switch in the ABS modulator has failed. The switch (according to the dealer) is non servicable (new modulator assembly is $1800). I'm wondering if flushing the system may help unstick the switch. Also wondering what is the best brake fluid to use.
Dan
I also did what Joey suggested and cleaned the MAF sensor with electrical contact cleaner. Took the whole thing apart and really hosed it good, then let dry for a long time.
I also took a heat gun to the warped air cleaner box and was able to form it back into shape. It appears that it is sealing, but I guess time will tell. I think what happened is the guy I bought it from had put the lid on wrong and with time and heat from the motor, it warped. I noticed it when I put the new K&N filter in, I had wrestle with the lid to get it on but thought it looked OK. I think the real contamination was from before this.
Maybe this is just my imagination, but it actually seemed to have more low end power when I put it all back together. Wondering if that may be because the air-fuel mixture is better now because the MAF is functioning properly.
Took the radiator out yesterday and got it to the shop just in time for closing. I'm waiting for them to call now so I can go put it back in. Kind of tough comming out, but not too bad using the shop manual. I just hope the shop does'nt tell me it can't be fixed because I don't know where I'm going to find a radiator on a weekend and my truck is hogging up my buddie's shop.
One last thing that I wanted to run by the group.
The most expensive thing wrong with my truck is the shuttle valve switch in the ABS modulator has failed. The switch (according to the dealer) is non servicable (new modulator assembly is $1800). I'm wondering if flushing the system may help unstick the switch. Also wondering what is the best brake fluid to use.
Dan
