Seeking Specialty Torque Wrench

[txfromwi]

I am slowly getting ready to do the transmission pan on the 2015 and I know from my experience on the 2016 that this is the perfect tool for torquing the bolts, because it's small enough to get in there.

BUT, the torque wrench I purchased was crazy expensive and the gears in the head lasted that one task, i.e. it's junk.

Based on the information in the website below, this appears to be exactly the same wrench I purchased, but under a different name.

SO, I am specifically looking for the female head that takes standard 1/4" hex, the small size, and a physical click or beep function - but from a different manufacturer.

Thanks!

DTF

Digital Torque Wrench with 1/4" Female Hex Drive

www.checkline.com

 

[djkaosone]

That's such a specialized tool to have a hex head. The first thing I can think of is check in the biking world, I used to ride mountain bikes, and this popped into mind. https://www.topeak.com/us/en/product/316-D-TORQ-WRENCH

You'll also need one that'll do at least 8 Nm according to the V8 5.0L workshop manual.

 

[Blueaz]

Park Tools makes great stuff. I have this small torque wrench which covers your 8 Nm but it has a standard 3/8" ratchet head, not a 1/4" female hex head.

Park Tool TW-5.2 3/8" Ratcheting Click-Type Torque Wrench , 2-14 Nm Range

Wonder why the Park Tool Ratcheting Click-Type Torque Wrench is a mountain biker favorite in the Torque Wrench collection? Part #TW-5.2. High quality ratcheting "click-type" torque wrenches that accurately measure and apply the proper amount of torque to a component's threaded fastener(s). 2 14...

www.worldwidecyclery.com

 

[txfromwi]

That topeak one looks so suspiciously like the one that died on me....

I found a Prestcycle torque wrench, and I know Prestacycle is a good quality vendor, but you have to be able to see the display - no click function...

I used a Prestacycle TorqKey on the crossover project on the 2016, only thing small enough to get in there for the passenger side bolts on the rear crossover.

 

[16FujiDisco]

I can certainly appreciate the desire to do things ‘by the book’, but I wouldn’t be too worried about the torque spec on a non-structural (like suspension, engine or brakes) part. The old five finger torque cranker will be just fine just like on a drain plug or oil filter. Just my 2 cents of course, but I have no leaks in over 2+yrs from doing my ‘16 pan replacement with the ‘that feels pretty tight’ method; using the right sequence is more important in my opinion.

 

[timc930]

FWIW:
I have 3 CDI, and 1 Precision Instruments Torque wrenches ranging from "inch" pounds to 250ft lbs. I gave all of my old Craftsman TW's to my son-in-law, and purchased the CDI's and PI's when I was doing the Timing Chains and Vanos on my L322, and the Engine on my Defender. I have one cheaper Neiko that goes up to around 400ft lbs that I used for rear wheel bearings on my 930, as torque was not that critical.

For the tranny pan (2015 LR4) I did not use a TW, and went by feel as they are only hand tight around 6lbs IIRC, so those you just snug up. The Valve covers on the 930 are the same, very critical not to over torque, and should be around 6-8ft lbs, and I have done those by hand as well for the last 30 years.

As stated above in previous post, I would not stress over the trans pan bolts. If you are concerned, put a generic part on the bench, torque it up to the tranny pan spec with a TW, then feel with hand several times to get a good feel. Too tight they strip, loose they leak. If they leak, you can always snug them back up. Use new bolts and make sure threads are clean.

Some of the angles on the trans pan bolts scare me with a torque wrench due to lack of feel.

 

[txfromwi]

I thought you knew me better than that... LOL !!

That's how I grew up, best judgement, but I would be embarrassed to relate my success rate with valve covers - never got those right, on any number of vehicles, and back then I didn't have any funds for anything as fancy as a torque wrench.

I agree I can get it about right by feel, but for me, I just don't want to ever mess with it again, and that means doing it as correctly as possible. I'll figure something out - maybe I can rebuild the head in my current wrench.

But, no, I have never torqued an oil filler plug, and have just retired the Nissan at 212K miles - and she leaves me with the factory installed oil filler plug crush washer....