Someone explain how to use a recovery strap please.

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

toddjb122

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 9, 2006
Posts
1,951
Reaction score
267
The safest way to secure a strap to a vehicle is to pass the loop through the eye and than put a one inch wooden dowel through the loop. A dowel about one foot long works fine, even a stout stick will work. The dowel should break before the strap and if it does it's not likely to go flying. ....

I read this in one of the stories and don't quite understand the process or the reason for the stick.
Below is my very crude drawing of a strap, with a stick, hooked to a shackle (That would be attached to a truck if I hadn't reached the limit of my drawing ability). Is this right? What is the purpose of the stick?

nv9zqf.jpg
 

kwlr3

Full Access Member
Joined
Dec 31, 2005
Posts
168
Reaction score
3
Don't pass the standing part of the strap through the loop. Just push enough of the loop through the recovery eye so that the stick can then pass through the loop. The stick now acts as a safety release, breaking before the strap or the recovery point. If on your first attempt, the stick breaks, use a larger stick. You're breaking the stick by shearing it so you would be surprised at how strong it will be.
 

jpljpl

Full Access Member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Posts
118
Reaction score
0
Don't pass the standing part of the strap through the loop. Just push enough of the loop through the recovery eye so that the stick can then pass through the loop. The stick now acts as a safety release, breaking before the strap or the recovery point. If on your first attempt, the stick breaks, use a larger stick. You're breaking the stick by shearing it so you would be surprised at how strong it will be.

Interesting idea... Sounds like it would actually be double shear, depending on how you arranged the stick.

I guess if you are unsure about your recovery points or gear, it might be a good idea to build in a fuse.

But you also run the risk of your stick breaking at the most inopportune time, and dropping the stuck vehicle into perhaps a more precarious situation. I also wouldnt be comfortable about being able to repeat the recovery in a consistent and safe manner, ie every stick could be different.

I would rather practice safe recovery methods, and make a secure and direct connection to the recovery point.

Mostly winching guidelines, but here's the Recovery Bible from Pirate 4x4. Gives you a good idea of the forces involved.
 

jesus_man

Full Access Member
Joined
Oct 12, 2009
Posts
457
Reaction score
0
Here is how you would use a "dowel":
http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/t...&parentType=index&indexId=cat20145&hasJS=true

What's great about this cinch bone is it'll never knot up so tight you can't get it undone, but also, while keeping the same loop, you can push the cinch bone towards the other vehicle to take up any slack in the strap. This is great for areas where you have limited room to pull with.

I think we're all on the same page here, but NEVER use a strap with hooks to pull someone out. They are emergency only and should be used with extreme caution. A broken hook goes thru glass like butter, imagine what it would do to someone's skull?

I have been wheeling and rock crawling for around 9 years now and been stuck my fair share and pulled people out. Sometimes it's hung up ******* a rock, or in deep snow, and in mud on rare occasion. But the strap I use I picked up at the likes of Big R or Tractor Supply Co. It's a non-name brand (read "Cheaper") 3" x 30ft rated for 27k lbs and had been a great strap. I always keep at least two clevis' with me, and that has worked every time so far.

115990d1228861228-tow-strap-cinch-bone-dynamicimage.jpg


J.D.
 
Last edited:

Disco Mike

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 20, 2009
Posts
1,949
Reaction score
4
The factory has no installed recovery points, You need to hear that. There is a loop under the front and rear of the truck, but they are only to anchor your truck to a transporter and are not intended to be used as a recovery. They can be torn off and fly right thru your windshield when they break loose.
 

jpljpl

Full Access Member
Joined
May 22, 2009
Posts
118
Reaction score
0
I think we're all on the same page here, but NEVER use a strap with hooks to pull someone out. They are emergency only and should be used with extreme caution. A broken hook goes thru glass like butter, imagine what it would do to someone's skull?

There seems to be a couple different tangents in this thread. The first is the comparision of a tow strap to a ****** strap...

These are very different methods of recovery, and both have their merits when done safely.

However, by the very nature of a KERR recovery, the dynamic forces are much more unpredictable. It's hard to judge exactly how much force you are creating...

Not sure how the dogbone would work with a ****** strap? It's probably not even recomended...

I've never seen a stick/dowel mentioned in any recovery guides either. At least not as a fuse...

I can see where a dogbone would be very handy though.
 

roverman

Full Access Member
Joined
Jun 1, 2007
Posts
1,667
Reaction score
108
Thanks Mike. Understand about the lashing points being too weak (although I've heard others say they were suitable, never believed it) But wouldn't you call that monster sized loop under the removeable rear bumper cover a factory recovery point?
Does anybody have a solution for a front recovery point, other than buying an ARB or other steel bumper?
 

nashvegas

Full Access Member
Joined
May 4, 2008
Posts
199
Reaction score
1
Recovery points on LR3

I dont know about that -- the huge loop by the towing hitch on an LR3 is a recovery point... not just a lashing spot. And the one on the front is on the frame of the truck too... I cant imagine anything stronger.
 

ryan-in-oregon

Full Access Member
Joined
Jul 7, 2009
Posts
538
Reaction score
3
The factory has no installed recovery points, You need to hear that. There is a loop under the front and rear of the truck, but they are only to anchor your truck to a transporter and are not intended to be used as a recovery. They can be torn off and fly right thru your windshield when they break loose.

The rear recovery point is cast iron and part of the hitch assembly, saying that it isn't suitable as a recovery point would be the same as saying the hitch assembly(I am refering to the bumper here not the removable section) can't be used to tow. I believe my owners manual refers to both points as "recovery" points and I will continue to use them as such. Using proper recovery techniques I simply don't see how you could break or detach either point. That being said none of us are experts here so keep that in mind when you read any "advice" from anyone regarding how to safely extract any vehicle....Kinetic energy can and does cause damage.
 

duckdive

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 14, 2006
Posts
720
Reaction score
2
I don't know, my front recovery point held pretty good when I got hung up on this
irritating little waterfall. (Thanks again Nathan)
 
Last edited:

Latest posts

Members online

Forum statistics

Threads
36,289
Posts
218,350
Members
30,504
Latest member
Disco2TrailEdit4
Top