(UPDATE) First Winter with the girl and...

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ktm525

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Could be. My point being these windshields draw a lot of current. Going to 40A fuses is a band aid. Now the fuses won't blow but the next weakest link will melt and or cause fire.
 

DaytonaRS7

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Fyi, my 40a fuses still melted. I have a aftermarket windshield.

In process of getting my windshield replaced. Maybe a different (better) brand will work better with the fuses..

A failed alternator and bad weather are delaying my appt though.
 

Ratatat

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You need the 40’s, 30’s won’t last. TSB done before I owned mine. ‘13 LR4 HSE LUX
 

Ratatat

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upload_2021-2-12_11-46-9.jpeg
New windshield last winter, defrosts very well.
 

ryanjl

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PGW is what I got a few months ago. Seems to be working well. Maybe a little slower to defrost than the original one it replaced, but still works great.
 

ktm525

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PGW is what I got a few months ago. Seems to be working well. Maybe a little slower to defrost than the original one it replaced, but still works great.

Sounds reasonable. Drawing less current, taking more time to melt stuff but at least your fuse box isn't melting!


So far I have had a replacement Pilkington, Benson and Fuyao all blow the 40 on both or passenger side. Next time I guess I will try PGW!

I wonder if I could place some sort of resistor inline to knock the draw down and perhaps not pop fuses??
 
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DaytonaRS7

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kind of related.

My Fuyao windshield keeps melting 40a fuses, but not blowing. the fuse literally just melts away all plastic, but the metal is left intact. this windshield was installed in the car when I purchased it.

there was a scratch on my windshield that I called geico about and they considered enough damaged to process the claim. I figured I'd **** 2 birds with 1 stone.
1) replace scratched glass
2) get better glass / working windshield.

Geico would not approve OEM glass due to cost. I warned them about the electric gremlins, but they didn't seem to care. Said they'd deal with it if (when) the problem arises.
Geico (safelite) replaced it with another Fuyao about 1 week ago. and of course, it isnt working. not only is it melting fuses (still), but it is also only half working. I checked, fuses are good. so, they've compounded the problem.

I now have a warranty glass claim into Geico/safelite to fix both the non-working passenger side defroster and fix the melting fuse problem, by another replacement using good glass. Safelite is coming to "diagnose" on Tuesday. I really have no faith in a glass technician being able to determine the workings of a Land Rover electrical system. We shall see.

If they drag their feet, ill be sure to make them aware of this TSB, that between between labor and parts, comes out to the tune of $5k. https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2013/SB-10100925-9340.pdf

maybe im taking advantage? or maybe im getting my moneys worth after paying them for soo many years?
 

ktm525

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They probably neglected to attach wiring on the one side. The melting fuses are not good.
 

DirtyHal

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I have a similar issue with my latest replacement windshield. Only the Driver's side lights up, Passenger side keeps blowing fuses. I took it back to glass shop and they showed me that side of the windshield works by hard wiring the fuse for a couple seconds. I could see and feel it heating so I believe them that it works. Just not sure why it keeps blowing fuses.
 

ktm525

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I have a similar issue with my latest replacement windshield. Only the Driver's side lights up, Passenger side keeps blowing fuses. I took it back to glass shop and they showed me that side of the windshield works by hard wiring the fuse for a couple seconds. I could see and feel it heating so I believe them that it works. Just not sure why it keeps blowing fuses.


It's easy. Windshield wires too thick and they are drawing too much current (not enough resistance). The 40 AMP fuses are melting! This is a fire waiting to happen.
 

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