What kind of leak is this?
- Thread starter powershift
- Start date
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txfromwi
Full Access Member
That's coolant. If it's Rover brand coolant it glows bright yellow under a UV light.
There was a discussion about the rear crossover being accessible from the top not too long ago.
For this group it actually got kinda heated, but this is a great group so not-so-much really...
I still maintain that it would essentially be impossible to get it apart, but no way you would ever properly torque those bolts back in.
If it's the rear crossover, then there are several, you really should-as-well's. Mostly front crossover, water pump, oil tube and o-rings/gaskets. Maybe the thermostat as well, and as long as you are in there, the PCV valve.
You can do this job, just a bit finicky in spots...
My apologies for the seasoned veterans, but since the question has come up again...
Here is my video doing the 2013, I hope you find it useful.
(I re-watched this a few days ago. It was my first video, and it shows. But it will get the job done...)
There was a discussion about the rear crossover being accessible from the top not too long ago.
For this group it actually got kinda heated, but this is a great group so not-so-much really...
I still maintain that it would essentially be impossible to get it apart, but no way you would ever properly torque those bolts back in.
If it's the rear crossover, then there are several, you really should-as-well's. Mostly front crossover, water pump, oil tube and o-rings/gaskets. Maybe the thermostat as well, and as long as you are in there, the PCV valve.
You can do this job, just a bit finicky in spots...
My apologies for the seasoned veterans, but since the question has come up again...
Here is my video doing the 2013, I hope you find it useful.
(I re-watched this a few days ago. It was my first video, and it shows. But it will get the job done...)
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powershift
Full Access Member
I'm not 100% positive it is the chains, but I noticed the noise right off the bat. I took it to a local car dealer I worked with and he thought it sounded like a problem and probably the chain. I've owned many V8's: '98 Dakota 5 Sp manual 4X4, '99 Z28 SS, '99 C5 Hardtop, '04 C5 Z06, '05 Chevy Silverado 496CI big block 4X4, '08 C6 Z51, '08 C6 Z06 505 HP. None of them make any noise like this. It is a bit of a chatter coming from the front and center of the engine and sounds like a diesel clanking noise, excluding injector noise. It still has power and gets on it pretty good. Right off the line it has a lot of power and traction. That is what is sweet, it puts the power down good. But I don't want to drive it now with the coolant leak.
Your right, it is a good deal and that is a surprising statement tbh since it has a coolant leak, chain issue, worn front A Arms/control arms and the hatch latch broke today. On the plus side it is very clean paint with scratches, chips spread out enough to where it is no problem and only one tiny pimple in the metal that you need to get real close to and look at it like it is a show car to notice it. All the metal panels look sharp. The hood, the roof, front bumper (rear bumper has a chinger), quarter panels, fenders all look good with no dents or dings at all. The leather smell is still strong after 11 years. I bought polish and started working the paint this morning so that it pops. I've got several more coats of polish to apply to get the swirls out. Around here, the sun kills the paint and this car was garaged and waxed. The top is really clean. Lots of windows for light coming in reflecting off the almond interior looks sharp and roomy.
I paid $15k for it. I bid on a '12 LUX in red the other week for $20k on BAT and lost. It had the rear locker. Even if it didn't have a chain problem, I accepted that I'd need to replace the engine at some point just not this soon. I just got my LR4 yesterday. What is strange is I go online and look at other rigs to buy instead and the only thing that gets me excited is the new Jeep Wrangler with the V8. Very costly. Even the Jeep 4 cylinder Rubicon is $50k for the later body style that I must have. Then there is the G Class, but I'd need to remove the rear seats entirely, store them somewhere and it would be at least $45k and then I'll need to fix things and spend to maintain it too because it would also have 90k+ miles. I'm not a Toyota fan. They don't have enough power. There is the Hummer H2. Very capable, V8, air ride but it seems pretty big. I haven't driven one but I think it would be harder to park in the shopping plazas and when flipping a ***** in a parking lot. They do rack up the miles just fine 200k+ mi is common. Lots of cargo capacity @ 2k pounds. Rear locker too. The nice later model H2's are at least $40k with aftermarket rims I don't like.
I estimate if I spend $35k-$45k on the LR4 then I have a rig that will compete with those other rigs I listed for less money. It will be nicer (except G Class) and far more comfortable than all of them and probably on par with the H2 for comfort with a much nicer interior. The Rubicon is far more capable, but I don't intend to use its full rock crawling capabilities and that is a lot of lost value at the cost of comfort. Looking at things in that way brings up the value of the LR4. And it has the V8. I need a small rig to get around Las Vegas, yet go out into the country, sleep in back and go dispersed camping WAY out there and get through snow, mud, washouts and rough roads up hill and still drive 85 MPH in Utah on the freeway. It will do any grade around here in the West just fine while loaded with camping gear. If someone wants to accelerate as I pass, I'll just hold the throttle down and wait until they have had enough. I'm pretty sure the LR4 can do over 100 MPH. Probably 110 MPH easily. WIth that TAP engine, it has more cubes then stock and will get up the grades easily while loaded.
If it were me I would try tackling the job myself, but I grossly undervalue my time, an am overly optimistic about how long things will take me. Refresh the entire cooling system like @txfromwi mentioned, maybe do plugs while you're there too. Since you'll have the cooling system drained, pull the radiator to get better access to the front and do the chains too. Honestly sounds like a fun job to me, and one that will then give you much more confidence that things are in order.
powershift
Full Access Member
That is a good point about gaining more confidence doing the work myself. It can't be bought and it can only be earned. The thing is I lost all my tools that I had collected for decades, I'm in an apartment and I don't have a ride to the parts store since my car is broken. So now the car I bought to replace my broken car is broken lol.
I could just start working on the coolant system in the parking lot and see if management tells me not to. I could make one parts run with as is (although probably not now it is 118F) and if I don't get every tool, fluid or gasket then I'll be busing it or these days I could have it shipped. Assuming there aren't any back orders. I read a post here recently the rear crossover pipe was backordered.
I could just start working on the coolant system in the parking lot and see if management tells me not to. I could make one parts run with as is (although probably not now it is 118F) and if I don't get every tool, fluid or gasket then I'll be busing it or these days I could have it shipped. Assuming there aren't any back orders. I read a post here recently the rear crossover pipe was backordered.
Yeah, of it's your primary mode of transportation and you don't have a good place to work, or tools, then you're probably better off having it done. I had mine done and if I recall correctly it was in the $1.2-1.5k range. The timing chain work I've heard is $5-7k (mine has it done before I bought it). Still probably cheaper to get it done than to blow up the motor and have to source a replacement.
It's our occasional vehicle, but when we do take it, it's often well off the beaten path. Other than expensive preventative maintenance, our 2012 has been surprisingly reliable (knock on wood). Perhaps the LR reputation set the bar quite low. If you're on top of maintenance, I don't see why it couldn't serve as a primary vehicle.
powershift
Full Access Member
If it wasn't hard to get out there and do the timing chain, there wouldn't be confidence that will be there when all the maintenance is over. I'll keep the tools in the LR4 and start replacing things like the alternator, battery, water pump and all the common stuff. If the rad is plastic it might be better to get an all aluminum rad. Then when I'm out in the country, I'll have more confidence and that can't be bought online and delivered.
The only Land Rover owner I knew back before the dot com boom had an old Disco 2 and he lead an off-road club that I attended with my brand new '98 Dakota 4X4 pickup with the 5.2L V8, LSD rear and 5 speed manual. He was always working on that thing with the dash apart and every square inch had been gone through. But it never broke down on a trail and he had full confidence in it.
The only Land Rover owner I knew back before the dot com boom had an old Disco 2 and he lead an off-road club that I attended with my brand new '98 Dakota 4X4 pickup with the 5.2L V8, LSD rear and 5 speed manual. He was always working on that thing with the dash apart and every square inch had been gone through. But it never broke down on a trail and he had full confidence in it.
Disco of Theseus ?
