Thanks Joey; long time no hear or post from me on the forum. I lost everything with a total hard drive failure 6 months ago without backup or notes on my computer. I picked up a wiper motor yesterday, start there as that's easy to get to. I believe the wiper control stick might be a big massive take apart in labor and time plus winter rains without a garage is also a problem. The D1 is run 19 hours 24/7 with two high school kids the wife is the taxi. Is the control stick easy to replace or many hours labor? Reason asking I may pick it off that donor D1 this sunday if it's easy to get off, keep as a spare ir that's the problem i'm having.
As you recall a couple years ago my 95 D1 I came up with some strange blink codes that were totally wrong and different that you, dealers or Rover's across the pond did not know what they were or even heard about. Well my manufactured date D1 of 11-94 is a 5- speed and a Pick Your Parts has 1-95 D1 with automatic that just came in. The first one in my area of 6 Pick N Pulls over many years looking. I was on it just when it was placed on stands. Spare alternator for $22.50. Spare tire with a mint alloy rim with a brand new 255/65/16 Michelin on it with the tire cover for $65. Oh got the 3.9 Mass flow plus another spare 4.6 Mass flow like I run with on my 4.6 motor. A collection of spare stainless wheel nuts for the spare tire and the balancer I will build. I got every relay, the Wadco control unit plus all 4 wheel sensors. I believe the Wadco on my D1 might be brain damaged as I found one ABS relay with the contacts just touching when it should of been in the NO state, tap it with a pencil and it would read open and closed. This is from the factory relay giving me problems for years. I do not trust any of Rovers relays, I pop the covers off the relays and check for open and preload in the energized state at the contacts with that spring bronze arm inside. I know all my wheel sensors are good plus I got a set of 4 for spares from that D1 plus all the steel shims for the swivel bearing preloads. I will test every relay from that vehicle (take the covers off and check the contact condition and alignment plus open and close condition for contact preload. I'll replace even those not related to the ABS system, all of them as I do not trust what I have seen by Rover. Then i'll replace that Wadco ABS unit ant test drive. I got the ignition module inside the dizzy, every temp sensor, another set of injectors. The only thing I could not find is the speed sensor unit on this automatic D1 vs the speed sensor located on the side of my 5-speed tranny. I had one fail and was looking for a spare. The automatic D1 must be a different unit and just ahead of the emergency brake backing plate and different vs a 5 speed unit.
I have the ram tube plate so that I can make one out of 1 3/4" to 2" thick that I can mill out as a 6 pack of beer plastic holder looking to make the intake track longer lowering my rpm max torque range. Just add longer bolts plus allowing the hat to clear under the hood.
I got a spare front hub assembly complete to the flange that bolts to the steering ball with another axle stub tube. This will be for a stand i'll build as I have a "shoe", motor to spin wheels on the vehicle how they balanced wheels 25-35 years ago. I can static balance with the motorcycle stand then dynamic balance for axial balance. I have new 255/65/16 Michelins to mount and balance. Call me cheap, i've static then spin balanced for years saving over a grand with my vehicles with dead perfect balances and all weights behind the spokes or if with steel rims. Sorry for the book from my OP question. Back problems and surgery is in my near future that has been why I have been off all the forums the past 3 years. Later Joey and thanks again Carl.....=o&o>......
PS: I have the door lock spring kit from England but it sure looks like a big can of worms to get the latch assemblies out of each door, 3 of 5 are broken.
Take care......
