Yet another EAS Fiasco

[cmb6s]

Depends.

If you're talking about a hole in the line from the rear valve block to a shock, then no... that would manifest itself all the time... no matter what.

If you're talking about a hole in one of the "main supply lines" (e.g. from the reservoir block to the rear valve block), then theoretically it would only manifest itself when the car opens the valve in the rear valve block. However, if the rear valve block is leaking internally, then it would manifest itself all the time.

 

[BearishDriver]

When you say it drop within 6-7 hours, are you saying that it drops that much if you leave it parked normally or it drops that much after you've pulled the fuses.


Also, just to verify, you have now replaced:
1. Front Left Shock
2. Rear Right Shock
3. Compressor w/updated software

Correct?

That is correct mate.
It drops with the fuse connected, this morning it was considerably lower but not all the way to the bump stops as I expected. Which comes as a bit of a relief tbh
I pulled the fuse after fully inflating it today and am waiting to see what's up.

I also suspect the indie calibration is well off, as the rear inflates a load higher:

 

[cmb6s]

I also suspect the indie calibration is well off, as the rear inflates a load higher:

That's normal. The rear is supposed to be higher than the front. The measurement from the center of each wheel to the underside of the wheel arch should be 466mm for each front wheel and 485mm for each rear wheel.

 

[BearishDriver]

yah I know but one can easily tell that in mine, the difference between front and rear is far more than 19 mm, it's almost an inch and half...
anyhow I'll measure it as soon as I have time. :S

 

[BearishDriver]

within 2 hours of it without the fuse, there's no noticeable difference, I had to use the car so I connected the fuse again, I'll disconnect it overnight and measure before and after. fingers crossed

 

[Houm_WA]

If the calibration is bad...that can cause all kinds of issues. Getting that fixed may aid your troubleshooting, even if that's not the only issue.

 

[BearishDriver]

I thought it was off, but measurements kinda match what cmb6s said, except the difference between front and rear is around 40 mm instead of 20...#

anyhow I parked it in my garage and disconnected the fuse 26 I'll update tomorrow with the results. Didn't have any faults today finally I catch a bloody brake hahaha

 

[jwest]

That's normal. The rear is supposed to be higher than the front. The measurement from the center of each wheel to the underside of the wheel arch should be 466mm for each front wheel and 485mm for each rear wheel.

Is this from a technical source or simply your own measurements ?

I'm curious and will measure mine to compare.

 

[cmb6s]

From the service manual and repeated in the Gap Diagnostics manual for the IID tool. Keep in mind that when calibrating, the computer should be put into Tight Tolerance mode, which allows a maximum of +/-3mm before adjustments. During normal operation, you will see a variation of up to 20mm per wheel (+/-10mm) before any adjustments are made by the computer.

 

[BearishDriver]

So I woke up this morning and went straight to measure it, the results:
Same height rear and a loss of about 35 mm in both front struts, this comes as a surprise as before the compressor swap the rear was the one giving trouble.

what does this mean? is this a new unrelated problem??
since the compressor swap the only code has been the c112f-72 actuator stuck open... I'll take the LR3 to the indie next week