I had that since I bought the truck, but that got fixed when the recall was done. The purge valve can definitely affect that, since the EVAP system will push fumes out of the fuel filler if it’s not working correctly and shut the fuel pump off early.
P0456 is another EVAP leak code. No damage, but it’s possible that the charcoal canister is saturated to the point where you’ll start eating purge valves every so often until it’s replaced. Mine might be, I’ll know if I get this problem again.
The smoke comes out of a vent at the filler neck...
The leaking fuel flange overworks the purge valve, and it fails. You’re stalling because the valve is stuck open, allowing extra fuel vapor into the combustion chamber causing a rich condition and the truck is stalling out. I fought this one for a LONG time. The gas cap light comes on bc the...
It depends. 13s and 14-16s go for significantly more due to the perceived timing chain "upgrade." Clean trucks will full service history go for good amounts, too. They're not going for what they were 2 years ago, but the prices have definitely gone up from before COVID and the "overland-y SUV"...
$20k is probably where you'd be for a no accident history, even with the HD pack. The 10-12s get a LOT less money than 13s and 14-16s, add on a salvage history and it's unfortunately not the best situation. If you were selling Summer '21, you'd get over $20 easily but we aren't at that time...
On the side, same spot the electronic controls are on the front seats but further toward the back of the truck/seat. The seats also can tumble forward for 3rd row access.
You can remove the heater core without pulling everything, and stripping the dash down is pretty fast.
Google it, you’ll see where you can trim an access hole in the plastic to get to it, there’s posts on this forum and IIRC it’s aluminum.
Nope just one. You clogged the heater core, it is angled a little so crud sits on the bottom/driver side. Stop leak should only be used as a last resort.
These motors sound like dog ****, the fuel injectors are LOUD.
You'll hear the chain "slap" the most on a HOT restart. Run the motor, drive the truck and get it to operating temperature. Shut it off. Wait a minute. Turn it on, you'll hear the slap for a couple seconds immediately upon restart...
I’m noticing this too. When it’s like, 35-45F out I need to set the temp to 74-76 to feel the heat. It’s been warmer the last two days and I have it set to 68-70 now and it’s toasty. It’s going to be…. -5 this weekend so I’ll see how that goes.
Have you ever replaced the water pump or crossover pipes? How many miles?
Check the level cold. My truck was 1/2" low when I bought it two years ago, I added some coolant and it hasn't dipped below that level.
I wish they're more tire options than the 2 Goodyears. I am not a fan of the Duratracs, in my experience they're a great tire for the first 25-50% of their life then they lose all grip and get LOUD. The Goodyear Adventures are junk, too.
Just to update:
Few more weeks left and til state inspection is up, the EVAP code is just persistent now. I have the service manual and it looks like to properly diagnose this with all the computery-doos, I need a T4 tool or similar to run the "Fuel Leak Check" forced test and the "Purge Valve...
This site uses cookies to help personalise content, tailor your experience and to keep you logged in if you register.
By continuing to use this site, you are consenting to our use of cookies.