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djkaosone build thread
To me... anything that becomes a permanent modification is a build. Solar panel permanently mounted on the hood, tire carrier, cutting stuff for clearance, stuff that can't be undone without buying replacement parts. I also feel that it's a build when someone puts in the time to research... -
Any DIY tips out there on replacing a 2016 LR4 SCV6 Thermostat Housing?
AB also has an ebay store front too. A few years back I somehow scored a set of 8 oem Bosch injectors for $700 shipped. So check their ebay store too. -
Any DIY tips out there on replacing a 2016 LR4 SCV6 Thermostat Housing?
Yeah, I usually tell people the plastic cooling parts deteriorate pretty much near the same time. With that said, once a single part starts going you should probably overhaul the entire cooling system, except for the radiator and potentially hoses. Thermostat is at the top of that list along... -
At Long Last... Modern head unit!
Looks like I'm SOL. When my bluetooth module was cutting in and out it didn't complete the fiber loop. Was hoping I'd just overhaul the system instead. Anyhow I coughed up the $$ for a stupid bluetooth module to have music. -
Dual engine air intake channels
The rubber elbow that connects to the air boxes has a bunch of holes in it, looking like crocs. Having snorkels do NOT mean you can submerge it, even on a LR3. It's not a sealed system. -
At Long Last... Modern head unit!
How important is the MOST system? I could care less about the cameras, sound system and whatnot. Will the instrument panel (dash) care? Can I rip it all out and upgrade the HU, dsp, amps, and speakers? -
Hot Hood. Hot engine compartment. Hot grill.
Interesting... I keep hearing about the ultragauge from other sites too and not just for Land Rovers for a few years now. Just never had a need for one, but maybe it's worth it. Is this the one, https://www.ultra-gauge.com/ultragauge/ Which model did you get the EM Plus or MX? -
Does my engine sound normal?
Yeah, my issue is remembering to take those values right when you start it up and then measuring those values after it warms up by getting it up to temp. I was watching those numbers on my entire 22 mile drive into work and it varies within a 1-2* change. Also keep in mind, I recently serviced... -
Does my engine sound normal?
Here are those values from my Gap: Values after a 1 mile drive to highway on ramp: Values after warmed up on highway driving: -
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Does my engine sound normal?
I honestly don't remember which specific values, but I do remember checking the intake and exhaust camshaft degrees for a whole week after removing my heads and redoing my chains. The cams are variable timing and they constantly adjust. The 2 banks are different from each other, but in my case... -
Does my engine sound normal?
If you take off the engine cover, turn off the radio, open your windows, and drive it uphill under load while feathering the accelerator you might hear some chain noise. To me, that video shows signs of chain slapping. If you have a Gap IID Tool, you can also check the intake and exhaust... -
What kind of leak is this?
Once the chain snaps, it's a catastrophic failure. Seen it first hand. It's worth saving if the chains are still in tact. Just clear the adaptation values after the repairs and it'll relearn the new values. This is where a good code reader comes in handy, like the Gap IID Tool. -
What kind of leak is this?
@shinckley08 If you "fill here too", it'll get coolant to the rear of the block and it will have enough coolant to push air pockets out of the block. It makes it easier to burp the system without a coolant vacuum tool. -
Alternatives to GAP tool?
My only issue with the JLR Mongoose with SDD software is finding a dedicated Windows XP or Windows 7 OS, the last time I checked back in 2016. I wonder if they developed/support the latest Microsoft OS versions. -
Upper fuse box
That's awesome! Thanks for the link @Daveykid. I have a bunch of files that I wish I could share with this group. -
Upper fuse box
Interesting... I had no idea there's a fuse box behind the upper glove box. That would be THE worst place to put one, because it's hard as h-e-c-k to get to. I've personally opened it up and there's nothing back there on my '11 LR4. Here's an electrical wiring diagram of mine and it's pretty... -
Upper fuse box
I promise you there's no fuse box behind the upper glove box. If you feel compelled to find out, you'll need to remove the center console to remove the center passenger air vent and the outer air vent to access prying out the plastic glove box. You need to pry on it till you think you're about... -
Alternatives to GAP tool?
Unfortunately, GAP IID Tool is the only way to go. Where did you buy the GAP tool? -
Upper fuse box
There are 2 main fuse boxes, one in the engine bay and the other behind the lower glove box. Just drop the lower glove box and pinch the plastic latch in to completely drop the lower glove box to reveal the fuse panel behind it. US version is just the opposite side, but same thing shown in this... -
Coolant Temps - 5.0
Don't get me wrong... I was watching the temps with a close eye. I'm scared too. I'm more scared of my wife yelling at me trying to blast the heater in +115*F temps wheeling out in the desert trying to cool down the motor. -
Hyundai just built a LR4
Yeah, I feel like others are stepping up and in to fill the LR4 market. -
Adding Pentofrost SF to OEM LR Coolant?
Hmm... that's a good question about topping off with other brands of OAT coolants with different colors. If it was me, I'd put on my shoes and get oem. I wouldn't want to question the cooling system doing it's job over driving 30 mins away to get the right stuff. I had my share of cooling... -
Adding Pentofrost SF to OEM LR Coolant?
While you're at it, this would be a perfect time to switch to dexcool. Dexcool is abundant EVERYWHERE and can find it at any remote gas station. You can probably find some Jeep guys carrying some out on the trails too. Just saying... I swapped mine out 5 years ago and I'm more than happy with... -
