Fantastic vide - THANK YOU! I suspect this is the cause of the clunking noise on our LR4. I probably replaced the LCA's for nothing a few years ago but at least I don't have to worry about those now. Ditto for the sway bar end links. Glad I didn't waste $$$ on the upper control arms or ball...
Looks like pitting or corrosion of some sort. I'd try lightly scuffing with a Scotch-Brite pad for grins, but if it's smooth, don't worry about it. The LubeLocker gasket should be installed dry, IIRC?
DO NOT use RTV, it will be miserable to remove in the future. If you must apply something, use...
Using parts from their passenger cars isn't necessarily a bad thing. The majority of the chassis & body are G-specific items, but yes some of the interior & switchgear is from other models. The S-class has all their top of the line stuff.
This is the big issue. The G-wag drives like a TRUCK...
Typically ran mid-15's at 90mph.
Best ever ET was 15.305, best trap speed was 91.55mph.
This was at 2700' elevation, btw. Should be a few tenths quicker at sea level, and a couple MPH faster. Not bad for a 3-ton truck!
:driver:
My wife bracket raced our LR4 a couple of seasons at Firebird Raceway. Zero loss in power delivery off the line. She won several races and ended up 2nd in the Street Truck championship in 2019.
However, the LR4 does not like being power braked for more than 2-3 seconds. IIRC it will cut power...
LR010806 was an older part number, superceded to LR172646. $200 from this JLR dealership.
However, the other 2 part numbers above are also "Purge Control Valves" and I don't know which one people are replacing to fix the fuel-filling issue.
Tire pressure should be 36 front, 42 rear. Wearing evenly on one edge of a tire indicates an alignment issue.
The LR4 pretty much can't break traction on clean, dry pavement with any sort of decent tire. No need for sticky summer shoes. I just installed a new set of Vredestein Quatrac Pro+...
I'm finding a lot of different, conflicting part numbers for "Purge Control Valve" on the LR4.
LR010806 / LR172646 ($238 dealer list)
LR172648 ($238 dealer list)
LR174757 ($258 dealer list)
All of these are for the LR4 V8. What specific part number is everyone referring to?
40% of what? How many miles on the truck?
That said... my in-tank, low-pressure fuel pump failed in my 2010, at 160kmi in Dec-2024. Wouldn't be a bad idea to replace proactively if your mileage is over 100k or so. Bummer this wasn't done with the flange upgrade since the pump is easily...
I have KONI dampers on other vehicles. When the top of the strut is accessible, there is a tab that protrudes from the center of the shaft and this can be rotated to adjust.
For dampers that have both ends attached to something (like a typical shock absorber, separate from a coil spring/strut...
I need to replace my LR4 front pads & rotors. After digging through Microcat to get the part numbers for the RRS 380x34mm rotors, calipers, and wear sensors... and, finding a pretty red set of Brembo six-pots... then I realized this setup requires 20" wheels!! D'OH!!
I've got brand new 19"...
The shock absorber portion can be replaced separately from the air spring. I did not know this. See Microcat screenshot below.
However, the pricing doesn't make this cost effective. The new air spring assemblies complete are about $1350/$1600 MSRP front/rear, respectively, for Genuine LR at...
YES - this is step 1. Call a dealer, they will tell you if the warranty work has been performed or not.
I did this job and posted some detailed threads with photos. It's DIY'able if you can turn a wrench. Not fun though. Parts are cheap (few hundred bucks, including a new fuel pump) but it's...
That does look highly sus. I wonder if there's any aftermarket bushing that could be pressed in to fix this? I agree, seems like a waste to replace the entire strut for only a worn bushing.
:help:
Not sure about the tools, but be careful with the brand of LCA if you replace them again. As of a few years ago, Lemforder was selling OEM LCA's with the Land Rover logo removed. All other LCA's are cheap offshore copies at half the price. I wouldn't gamble on the cheap stuff.
:ahhhhh:
Just to clarify. The engine was running normally before you changed the passenger side valve cover gasket... and afterwards, you had the rough idle and surging RPM's?
Ah, I missed the LT tire vs P tire. Yep - that won't help!!! The Conti and Tire Rack websites don't make this clear.
https://continentaltire.com/tires/crosscontact-lx20/specs
https://www.tirerack.com/tires/continental-crosscontact-lx20-with-ecoplus-technology
I'd also suspect the poly bushings as the cause of the harsh ride. I bought Lemforder LCA's which were made in UK and appeared to be OEM Land Rover, with the LR oval logo ground off. Most all other brands are cheap offshore junk, at half the price.
I'm seeing Lemforder LCA's at $275-$300 each...
AFAIK, there is no access from the interior of the vehicle. The tank is located along the passenger side, approximately below the 1st and 2nd row seats. The tank is located ahead of the spare tire area.
Also, I forgot to add a link to the new thread on pump replacement...
I don't think it's normal for LR4's to eat batteries quite that rapidly. My previous battery (H7 / 94R) lasted about 7 years. When it failed suddenly, I replaced it with the larger H8/49 AGM, which is still going strong after 4 years. I do keep the truck plugged into a maintainer with full-time...
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