My reply will be strictly based LR3 vs. RRS on "off-road" use - unless you can purchase an RRS for next to nothing, I would think that the RRS will depreciate at a much higher rate than the LR3 with equal amount of scratches, dents and trophies. Wheeling a 50k LR3 hard is soooooo much easier...
Just be happy you saw it in time. I make it a regular habit to give the under carriage a good look over every month or so. Trying to avoid the old stuck in the boonies story - knock on Alpaca leather :biggrin:
Sounds more like a failing steering shaft or coupler. I'm not sure if there's a TSB on that but many people, including myself, have had this issue addressed while under warranty. They replaced the coupler and rack and pinion on mine. This is more than likely what you are feeling.
How much lift is enough? Nearly impossible to quote a height that's the Holy Grail. For us, the lift is a reaction to compensate for tire size due to rubbing issues. 33's are at the far end of usable, safe, economical and practical. Most of us live somewhere in the 32" world depending on tire...
LRB - it's a Rover. The less you question the Green Gods, the less they'll jump out and bite you! Replacing the arm assembly takes less labor than replacing the bushings - that's why they went that route. A few knowledgeable Techs have actually modified the special tool for bushing removal which...
WHOA!!!!!!!!!! I wasn't anticipating that! I've been spending Waaaaaaaaayyyyyyyy too much time under the rig. Something along the lines of not being able to see the tree's from the forest I guess?? So simple. Brilliant! Any scavenging issues? Backpressure issues? I'd love to see 1 year feedback...
10-12mm depending on tire size is the zone. There is only so much adjustment/correction for camber available. Too much lift and you will sit bowlegged no matter what. Rod sets should not be a quest for "maximum lift" in the market place. 1" lift is perfectly fine for some. Just depends on your...
My SE5 has the same headrests and fold down seating. The Alpaca w/ black carpeting has saved me tons of cleaning. My rear seats are also heated. I keep all my straps, shackles, snatch blocks and jumpers underneath the rear seat area. It's huge under there! I even have a fleece blanket just in case.
Roof rack is a must. I throw all my light oddball stuff up there. Camp chairs, sleeping bags, tents, camp tables, shade tents. Everything is in a dry bag or river bag which obviously keeps everything dry, but more importantly, dirt and dust free. Smart packing and proper ratchets make it a...
Glad you made it out. I'm very surprised that swapping out rod sets had any real effect on this outcome. A fault is a fault is a fault - regardless of anything. A bad sensor is a bad sensor. Period. This is not a fix. Recommending aftermarket rod sets as a safety valve is just plain...
NorCal is pretty much the same boat. Driving over medicine balls all day. I figure, if I can pick my way through Deer Valley / Blue Lakes / Slickrock Trails without damage or sliders, I'm doing OK for a city slicker. Much more than those trails and your rig will be toast anyways!
Man...I just can't wrap my head around $1400.00 sliders! I have a complete mental block about forking that kind of cash out for an "accessory". I've just learned to take creative lines, occasional stacking or the rare bypass option. Sometimes I've just had to bang my way over things. Last year...
My bad. Forgot about Dealer runs. I finally hit 50k so the warranty is out. Full lock in reverse is rub-o-rama. I average 14.8mpg @ 38psi. Long highway runs @ 60psi get me up to 17.6pmg +/-. That's a fully loaded rig with winch and ARB hanging out front. My kingdom for a Diesel!!!
Great score! The upper section is held into place with steel cap screws (Allen) threaded into Aluminum threads. It's really easy to strip out the threads if you're not careful. Also, be sure to have a buddy support one side once you relieve the tension of the brackets. It tends to be spring...
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