If I remember correctly in 2008. The front heavy duty rubber mats had the hook and the back have the retainers. The fronts will have 1 hole near the middle for the hooks and the rears should have 3 retaining holes on each side including the part that wraps around the seat. Those are for...
That was my first thought as well but when he mentioned seat position I thought of the discussion on the UK board about a connector under the seat.
That might be the first thing to check.
Same here, 2006 at about 96k with some fairly hard oftroad driving as well. The sand colored one in the video.
Compressor is still original although I did change the drier during maintenance recently.
Other then that I have had the regular 30k ctrl arm bushing change in the front. Once in the...
The hot pipes you refer to I believe are the heater lines so hot coolant is running through them. I store stuff in there all the time. To be extra safe I just wrap anything next to the pipes with a small towel to insulate.
If your compressor was replaced with the complete new version with the new bracket you will probably have to have the sliders customized as Umberto mentioned to clear it even with the new bracket from Tactical, so i have heard, but at least getting the new bracket would help.
If you happened to...
What kind of door opener do you have? I bought a new house and the process was different on the new house from the old house with an older door opener. I found the info in the garage door manual for homelink programing which is what the lr3 has.
Yes, if you have a gas cap message for more then a couple test cycles the engine light will activate. Been there, in my case the leak test pump was going out and needed to be replaced.
I think the manual tells you the wading depth. But yes the doors have inner and outer seals and you can get into a depth close to where the air intake vent is without any problems.
The chirping happened twice so far on mine with about 92k on it. Both times it was the idler pulley in the spring mechanism. A shot of DWD40 into the spring mechanism got rid of it for a while but eventually had to replace it.
I use rover parts west out of Vegas for all my parts. I have never seen better prices generally. Looks like they are running about $216 for a complete lower control arm.
I Just made my own similar to the Ray version. Bought the ball bracket from RAM and ground it off to fit on the seat rail. It sits at a different angle then Rays but works fine.
Sorry to hear it Houm. Sorry I don't know enough about the calibration process the dealer uses. I have reset mine multiple times in one day, but I use the faultmate to set each corner as I please and not any special calibration procedure.
Hey Houm, I am not sure what you mean by failed to calibrate. It won't take any setting? Since I am able to set each corner individually with my faultmate I may not understand the process your shop is using.
I have installed the factory locking diff. It is a completely different differential unit. It is near impossible to operate it manually from my testing due to the variable nature of it. Hooking it up is not hard if you can hunt down the wiring parts you need. There are 2 sections needed, one...
You have to pull the feul pump out. Then reach to the way outer left side of the internal infrastructure dropping your elbow all the way into the tank. I have pulled mine several times. Grab the white T bracket and lift out and it will slide out off the track.
The air spring was not "popped" just some gouge marks on the aluminum airbag casing. after it was aired up and the fuses pulled at normal height is seemed to drive normal accept for bonging not to drive over 30 MPH. :rofl:
Houm, I replied to your PM. As I mentioned in the PM mine was exactly the same occurrence as your account step by step. Swap the shocks and you will see the same symptoms change to the other side. As others mention the control arm will not contact the shock even if the sway bar link is removed...
Same exact thing happened to me. The shock strut is bad, the internal stop inside the shock is broke. The upper control arm should not contact the shock even if the sway bar is disconnected. I went through all the same things. Even if you fix the sway bar you will probably get the same fault...
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