I've been applying UV protection to mine as well as waxing them. They are scratched and I think it might be from bush? Only the drivers side is scratched at the top corner but not the paint.
The owners manual states to use the A/C weekly. In your case I would take it to another mechanic. I think the part in the dash is bs. Probably a compressor problem. If you could start driving it daily I'd leave the A/C on for a couple weeks and see if it works itself out.
My AC sucks pretty bad...
It sounds rich. I've never owned a diesel so maybe that is how it is but would like one. Probably a Cummins in the RAM or the Powerstroke in the F350 4X4. Gobs of power. Back not long ago big rigs didn't even have that much power.
If its smoking then they tuned it too rich. It can be de-smogged and run as clean as a whistle if done right and you want that. People still roll coal from time to time but not so much around the SW US. If you look up in the sky and see blue streaks from aircraft that is 100% pollution that...
Maybe the plastic is flexing up against the lock ring there around the edges. I'm curious what mine looks like. Is there pressure from the plastic up against the lock ring that could cause the plastic to flex there? Pressure from gasoline fumes and weight of gas?
Yeah, 4 YO is even worse. I wonder if water gets on top of there and along with temperature variations weather does a number on it. I would expect the cracking if it were out in the Mohave sun. Is that rust around the outer parameter or is that a caulk like substance?
Motorweek did a show on the Defender. Kinda disappointing they didn't off-road it like they did past Defenders but they like the SC V8 https://motorweek.org/road-tests/2026-land-rover-defender-110/
I was taught by my childhood friends that to clean the valves take it on a freeway and/or frontage road run. Driving up a long grade on the freeway in 3rd, get the RPM's up around 5k RPM's and let it work. But I have zero evidence any of that matters. It sounds more like an excuse to drive at...
Sorry to hear that. The brass bleeder cap is holding up on mine since 2024 26k miles.
I'm weary of the metal pipes before people put miles on them and talk about their experience. It might be better to go with the devil you know, but if you are a gambling man the metal pipes may save R&R time...
You'll get there. The shop I went to wouldn't do the chain work without the cam actuators. $1k above the chain costs so there is that part too. Since you are DIY it will financially be a light hit in the long run comparatively. I'd put all new parts on the front and go to town. Shops don't do it...
There is a place in Canada that supposedly performs tunes. They quote big power gains but they were all on the SC engines. They didn't mention heat soak though so running an RV up a grade with one of their tunes might be an experiment. I'd keep it stock and be patient with it, give it plenty of...
The Lemforder brand is where the value and reliability is at for the LCA's. Its still early stages for me though I've only driven 26k mi on them. I do hear a slight deep inner-core clack pulling out of a parking space and I'm beginning to wonder if that slight noise is from the left LCA. At 97k...
I think it can handle more with a class 4 hitch. It has a 4,000 lbs rear-end. I'm thinking about getting the front/rear weighed and using the rear difference from 4k as how much I weight I can load as well as max tongue weight. It will probably be more than 770 lbs but not sure about rims and...
I'd like to see how a log would clear the compressor if up in the PNW, lots of trees out there. People would probably cut the trees in the road with a chain saw and move them, but if you want to go offroad then traversing downed trees is likely. Its possible to do it wrong climbing over. A winch...
Rock sliders would be good for that terrain. I could have used them but instead have scratches from sand/rock on an embankment hitting the drivers door plastic molding. Probably about 2.5' long its not super noticeable but its there if you look.
When I look at the front all I see is the plastic bumper and not a plastic cover to remove. There is a black plastic piece in the center of the front bumper that would be near the winch position. Do you mean that piece comes off and there is a tow hook behind it?
Being curious I just checked my tank skid plate. I take my rig off-road frequently and a few times attempted to drive up washout banks in the Mohave desert that were too hard to get up where the mid-section of the under body was in the dirt and the vehicle slid down the crest trying to get up...
Sliders may have protected my plastic side all along the drivers door when I was stuck in a couple washouts but they add a lot of bulk and weight. What I'd like to get is front tow hooks. I realized there isn't any factory support for that which is a bit odd for as many 4X4 features as it has.
https://www.jaguarforum.com/threads/jaguar-sdd-in-virtual-image.108460/ here is a guide but not sure if the links still work from 2024 https://blog.uobdii.com/jlr-sdd-156-145-138-130-win-xp-7-10-test-reports-guide/
Take a closer look at the front in order to get a clue. If its a pipe (but not limited too) it can burst and pump all your coolant out onto the freeway and I hear people don't have time to even pull over and stop before the heads warp, the block is aluminum too it will warp. $14k just for a new...
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