Awesome - thank you. I will post updates; I just purchased two M10 nuts that fit on the two starter motor bolts so I have everything needed to lock down the crank. Will eat my spinach so I can get the crank pulley bolt out!...
Any thoughts folks on A, B, C and D in my post above? I'm getting close to undoing the crank bolt and want to double check I'm headed in the right direction - Thanks.
FWIW, here are some images of the timing before removing the crank pulley, chains, etc. I think the engine may be in the correct position but won't know more until I can see the timing mark on the guides. Here's the driver side:
And passenger side:
Hi Folks - Rear crossover pipe done this evening, people are not joking when they say the job is a pain in the a55! It's doable but lots of fussing to get the bolts out, I found a longer extension allowed my ratchet further back in the firewall area allowing me to get more degrees rotation each...
FWIW - Here are my plugs, removed a few days ago, cylinder numbers are marked, so bank 1 (passenger side) is 1, 3, 5 and 7; bank 2 (driver side) is 2, 4, 6 and 8:
This is all part of the timing chain job, I'm changing the plugs while I'm in there!
It's a fair point but you're not comparing apples to apples. I would never put an all season tire up against a snow tire in the snow... It's a case of horses for courses and really depends on what the OP wants, where he lives and his own tolerance for risk. Some of those back roads in VT...
Thank you for the help, I bough this Airlift kit on Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002SRH5G/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
They look somewhat similar; I need to go read the manual! :argh:
You're correct; there's a bleeder as indicated here:
I have the vacuum fill process in my not so distant future but have never done it yet... Still need to figure this out along with 43,000,000 other things!
Even better is $217 on Parts Geek, but they seem to have two with prices differences which has me confused!
https://www.partsgeek.com/catalog/2012/land_rover/lr4/engine_electrical/starter.html
What am I missing here???
Thank you so much I did see the ones at RMEuropean (partsgeek has the same) and pondered just buying the kits although I don't need the valve cover gaskets but I'm also putting in an order to FCP Euro so will likely go with them. The ones you found are the right ones; I was looking for the left...
Thanks, sorry I missed that! The hyperlinks are rather subtle with this forum tech! These however don't appear to be Elring unless Eurospare is Elring?
Welcome - also take a look at this video - it's the V8 but much of the content is relevant:
Can't emphasize enough the timing chains and front/rear crossovers (ideally confirm they've been done, esp. at 100K miles). Air suspension in my opinion shouldn't be a blocker the parts are...
There's another threads somewhere about these tires; I hear the Michelin Cross Climate 2 is fantastic in the snow; this is likely my next tire as I'm not an off roader.
I think it's the original!
I'm still pondering the next course of action, given it's age do I spring for a new one on the assumption that it will fail eventually or solder a short wire as suggested by Range Rover. Given my daughter may drive this occasionally I lean towards a new one (looking...
Here's an image of the camshaft alignment from this video, at approximately 30m and 52 seconds - he mentions the boxed text facing down.
And with the locking tool in place:
Crank position sensor lock tool (fits in an unseen square hole):
Crank lock tool where the starter motor is removed:
Curious what folks think of the price difference between OE and after market for valve cover spark plug/injector gaskets, so OE are $25.19 (I assume this is each) and after market are $4.79. I'm having a hard time reconciling this huge cost difference and whether it's worth paying over $200 for...
I'm back and working again on the project albeit as a very slow pace... FWIW I posted in this thread last night about removing the starter motor:
https://www.landroverworld.org/threads/changing-starter-motor-on-lr4.42106/
I tried turning the motor over last night to get everything aligned for...
Anything I can do or do I need a new starter motor? I still have to get the cable and the old nut separated as well! So this:
It's almost as if the nut is retained in place by bending wire tabs on to the nut? I was hoping this is a spade type connector but it's not coming off with some...
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