The LR wheels have a small lip on the inside of the center hole it can be removed and the wheels will mount on trailer hubs you can’t put the center caps on while the wheel is on the trailer but you can put them back on if it mounted to the LR after removing the lip. I ended up fabricating my...
The Big Agnes Hinman double wide might work for you. It is 50x78 self inflating and a r value around 6 I believe. Not super cheap though. We use ours with our sleeping bag often although never in the back of the LR. It is quite comfortable.
I don’t have this problem with my LR3 but do with my Ford f-450. The ac coils actually freeze the condensation in the air and plug the air flow across the coils. I have to turn the ac off and let the coils melt then the air will blow through.
I tried it and no you can’t get all the oil out. The dipstick tube doesn’t enter the pan where you can get to the bottom of it. Also getting to the filter from the top side would be quite an ordeal.
The resistors in parallel with the lights work to let the LR3 know the trailer is there but depending on the lights they may still flicker. I went a step further with making a relay circuit to isolate the test signal from the actual turn/brake lights. It requires 2 relays and two resistors. You...
Are they LEDs? Your test probably is. LEDs don’t draw enough power for the trailer light test circuit on the LR3 to work properly. So the lights will flash with every pulse the LR3 sends out to see if a trailer is connected.
I would check the intake and see if there is oil accumulated in there. Sounds like oil is collecting in there and accumulates when you turn the engine off. Then when you accelerate hard the first time it all gets sucked through and burned off.
Another reason for the iid tool from Gap Diagnostics. My guess is for what the dealer charges you you could have bought the tool. Got a bit better diagnostics than you had and done the calibrations with having to go anywhere. I have no affiliation with gap but the tool has saved me thousands of...
Check this thread out very similar to your problem. Fixed with an ecu reflash.
https://www.landroversonly.com/threads/engine-immobilized-not-recognizing-key-fob.54318/
It’s been reported multiple times and in release literature from Land Rover that the d300 will come to the US in 2021. The 2020 model has very limited options more options will come for later models.
My bet is you still have air in the system I have found on the LR3 it works best to bring the engine up to temp with heater running. Then shut it off and let it cool as it cools the coolant will be pulled into the engine. I generally do this 2-3 times the heater should be blowing hot if not...
If Christian Brothers told you have a timing belt run far far away. The 3.0 V6 has a timing chain not a belt. The chain may stretch, very uncommon, but it won’t “come apart” unless it breaks in which case the engine won’t run and you have bent valve or much greater problems. The 5.0 and 3.0...
Are your headlights working properly in the auto position? With the iid tool you can set the auto headlights to off and that kills the rain sensing wipers too. They both use the same sensor.
With the iid tool from gap you can disable the parking sensors. At least on the LR3 and assume on the 4 as well. There website says it can be done. It is in the ccf file.
My guess is the tester plug won’t work. The LEDs don’t draw enough current for the LR to recognize anything is plugged in. The way it detects if a trailer is there is to send small pulses to each of the turn signals and measures the current draw. With LED lights the current draw is to little and...
Most likely the “L” piece that attaches the cable to the actuator broke. It will be a pain to get into the tailgate to fix it though. Do a search on how to do this. While you’re in there I would install an emergency pull cable that allows you to release the hatch without the actuator.
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