Search results
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Undoing a tune - do I need a new ECM?
Does anyone know of GAP-IID is capable of restoring the original ECU program? (I have no idea, but that's the tool most forum members use with their LR4.) $22k for new ECM, cats, & sensors... that's funny stuff right there. Did they tell you that with a straight face? :musicus: -
LR4 brakes soft/hard
No strainer. There is a wire to the sensor integrated into the cap, the wire must be disconnected first. Then the cap comes out with a float assembly. But, no strainer in sight. JLR says to replace the hoses every 75kmi or something crazy like that. But the hoses are expensive, like $80-$100... -
LR4 brakes soft/hard
Just completed a brake flush on the LR4 and figured I'd add some notes to this thread. I used 1 liter of Ate SL.6 fluid. After siphoning the reservoir empty, it will take ~400cc/mL to refill it. Then connect your pressure bleeder (Motive, or similar, as shown back in post #18 in this thread. I... -
E-Pro rebuilder?
Bottom end bolts on most engines can generally be re-used if they measure in spec, but see what the JLR service manual says. Sounds like quite the project there! -
E-Pro rebuilder?
That is a heat tab. It is supposed to have the center melt if the engine overheats (over ~120°C). Question is, who applied it, and why? Can you check the engine serial and see if it's original? Could be those were applied to a used engine sold by a salvage yard... seems unlikely the heads were... -
Suspension noise (possibly lower control arm)
Fantastic vide - THANK YOU! I suspect this is the cause of the clunking noise on our LR4. I probably replaced the LCA's for nothing a few years ago but at least I don't have to worry about those now. Ditto for the sway bar end links. Glad I didn't waste $$$ on the upper control arms or ball... -
LR4 Transmission Fluid Change: Pan Swap Option
Looks like pitting or corrosion of some sort. I'd try lightly scuffing with a Scotch-Brite pad for grins, but if it's smooth, don't worry about it. The LubeLocker gasket should be installed dry, IIRC? DO NOT use RTV, it will be miserable to remove in the future. If you must apply something, use... -
Buying Used LR4 versus Mercedes G550
Using parts from their passenger cars isn't necessarily a bad thing. The majority of the chassis & body are G-specific items, but yes some of the interior & switchgear is from other models. The S-class has all their top of the line stuff. This is the big issue. The G-wag drives like a TRUCK... -
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Summer Tire (on-road/offroad) shopping
Typically ran mid-15's at 90mph. Best ever ET was 15.305, best trap speed was 91.55mph. This was at 2700' elevation, btw. Should be a few tenths quicker at sea level, and a couple MPH faster. Not bad for a 3-ton truck! :driver: -
Summer Tire (on-road/offroad) shopping
My wife bracket raced our LR4 a couple of seasons at Firebird Raceway. Zero loss in power delivery off the line. She won several races and ended up 2nd in the Street Truck championship in 2019. However, the LR4 does not like being power braked for more than 2-3 seconds. IIRC it will cut power... -
New Recall Alert : Fuel System
LR010806 was an older part number, superceded to LR172646. $200 from this JLR dealership. However, the other 2 part numbers above are also "Purge Control Valves" and I don't know which one people are replacing to fix the fuel-filling issue. -
Summer Tire (on-road/offroad) shopping
Tire pressure should be 36 front, 42 rear. Wearing evenly on one edge of a tire indicates an alignment issue. The LR4 pretty much can't break traction on clean, dry pavement with any sort of decent tire. No need for sticky summer shoes. I just installed a new set of Vredestein Quatrac Pro+... -
New Recall Alert : Fuel System
I'm finding a lot of different, conflicting part numbers for "Purge Control Valve" on the LR4. LR010806 / LR172646 ($238 dealer list) LR172648 ($238 dealer list) LR174757 ($258 dealer list) All of these are for the LR4 V8. What specific part number is everyone referring to? -
Fuel pump
40% of what? How many miles on the truck? That said... my in-tank, low-pressure fuel pump failed in my 2010, at 160kmi in Dec-2024. Wouldn't be a bad idea to replace proactively if your mileage is over 100k or so. Bummer this wasn't done with the flange upgrade since the pump is easily... -
Suspension noise (possibly lower control arm)
Correct. It's usually a 1-time adjustment during initial installation and setup. -
Brembo Brake Upgrade - 2013 LR4
I wonder if anyone has tried fitting the factory 19's over the six-pots. :bike: -
Suspension noise (possibly lower control arm)
I have KONI dampers on other vehicles. When the top of the strut is accessible, there is a tab that protrudes from the center of the shaft and this can be rotated to adjust. For dampers that have both ends attached to something (like a typical shock absorber, separate from a coil spring/strut... -
Suspension noise (possibly lower control arm)
https://shop.koni-na.com/products/9905-1003 -
Brembo Brake Upgrade - 2013 LR4
I need to replace my LR4 front pads & rotors. After digging through Microcat to get the part numbers for the RRS 380x34mm rotors, calipers, and wear sensors... and, finding a pretty red set of Brembo six-pots... then I realized this setup requires 20" wheels!! D'OH!! I've got brand new 19"... -
Suspension noise (possibly lower control arm)
The shock absorber portion can be replaced separately from the air spring. I did not know this. See Microcat screenshot below. However, the pricing doesn't make this cost effective. The new air spring assemblies complete are about $1350/$1600 MSRP front/rear, respectively, for Genuine LR at... -
Land Rover recall - fuel smell
YES - this is step 1. Call a dealer, they will tell you if the warranty work has been performed or not. I did this job and posted some detailed threads with photos. It's DIY'able if you can turn a wrench. Not fun though. Parts are cheap (few hundred bucks, including a new fuel pump) but it's... -
Suspension noise (possibly lower control arm)
That does look highly sus. I wonder if there's any aftermarket bushing that could be pressed in to fix this? I agree, seems like a waste to replace the entire strut for only a worn bushing. :help: -
Suspension noise (possibly lower control arm)
Not sure about the tools, but be careful with the brand of LCA if you replace them again. As of a few years ago, Lemforder was selling OEM LCA's with the Land Rover logo removed. All other LCA's are cheap offshore copies at half the price. I wouldn't gamble on the cheap stuff. :ahhhhh: -
rough idle engine after reaching operating temperature
Just to clarify. The engine was running normally before you changed the passenger side valve cover gasket... and afterwards, you had the rough idle and surging RPM's?
