Dismus Obondo
New Member
I wish to share my experience with my Disco 3 (2007 TDV6, 2.7) losing power on two occasions.
I believe that in doing this a few grease monkeys, like myself, will learn something. The first instance was when I removed the Inter-cooler Turbo Hose (Turbo inlet pipe) for cleaning then I forgot to fix it back properly (forgot to tighten the clip screw). After driving for 10 minutes the engine light came on and the car lost power to the extent that I had a problem going up a steep hill even on low range. I realized my mistake and screwed the hose back tight but the car still had no power. I would have been surprised if just screwing the clip would have solved the problem. I was not surprised, because it did not.
Diagnostics revealed that the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor had failed. A change of the MAF sensor fixed the problem completely.
The second experience was not as straight forward. About a year later while accelerating hard to join a highway, I felt a sudden loss of power accompanied by (I thought I heard) a slight pop sound under the car. After this I could not accelerate although I could gradually gain speed to whatever level I wished. The problem was that when I needed sudden power it was not there.
I knew it was something to do with the turbo charger. Used that car that way for about a month then took it for diagnosis at a "general practitioner" garage in Nairobi. The dealers are normally my last resort
due to their tendency to overcharge. The diagnosis revealed that there was a problem with the oil temperature switch! I didn't believe it.The mechanic then "deleted" the problem and told me to test-drive the car. Nothing! I took it to a Land Rover specialist garage (still not dealers), the Rover Land in Industrial Area Nairobi. They did the diagnostics and found a few inconsequential faults including the oil temperature switch problem. They also tested the engine by accelerating on neutral to observe behavior of the turbor intake hose. No much response. The mechanic explained that the turbo intake should swell slightly with depressing the accelerator hard. No swelling. The mechanic then had his two assistants bloc the two exhaust outlets as he accelerated. No accumulation of exhaust gases and no sudden release when the assistants let go (no freno-effect).
Conclusion: The exhaust crossover pipe burst! Hallelujah! replacement =Kenya Shillings 90,000 (USD 900) and he must remove the gear box because the famous pipe is positioned above the gear box!
But he could still have the same pipe repaired for KSh 14,000 (USD 140). I opted for the repair and told him to proceed. In the mean time I decided to research on the problem. From this forum I found that one member had been told that the body had to be removed to access the pipe! while other members agreed that the gear box is often removed to access the pipe. Other said that it could be removed by slightly lifting the body. How?
The following day the mechanic had removed the gearbox and the pipe. I looked at the pipe but it was covered in asbestos and so it was not possible to tell whether or not it had a problem. The mechanic however explained that the burst is in the flexible parts and may not be obvious.
Three days later I picked the car paid him for the labour including servicing (Ksh 20,000 or USD 200) and left. The car now had power whether or not I had been conned on the pipe repair didn't mater.
Cross over pipe before repair as taken by myself
After repair as sent to me by the mechanic
I believe that in doing this a few grease monkeys, like myself, will learn something. The first instance was when I removed the Inter-cooler Turbo Hose (Turbo inlet pipe) for cleaning then I forgot to fix it back properly (forgot to tighten the clip screw). After driving for 10 minutes the engine light came on and the car lost power to the extent that I had a problem going up a steep hill even on low range. I realized my mistake and screwed the hose back tight but the car still had no power. I would have been surprised if just screwing the clip would have solved the problem. I was not surprised, because it did not.
Diagnostics revealed that the MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor had failed. A change of the MAF sensor fixed the problem completely.
The second experience was not as straight forward. About a year later while accelerating hard to join a highway, I felt a sudden loss of power accompanied by (I thought I heard) a slight pop sound under the car. After this I could not accelerate although I could gradually gain speed to whatever level I wished. The problem was that when I needed sudden power it was not there.
I knew it was something to do with the turbo charger. Used that car that way for about a month then took it for diagnosis at a "general practitioner" garage in Nairobi. The dealers are normally my last resort
due to their tendency to overcharge. The diagnosis revealed that there was a problem with the oil temperature switch! I didn't believe it.The mechanic then "deleted" the problem and told me to test-drive the car. Nothing! I took it to a Land Rover specialist garage (still not dealers), the Rover Land in Industrial Area Nairobi. They did the diagnostics and found a few inconsequential faults including the oil temperature switch problem. They also tested the engine by accelerating on neutral to observe behavior of the turbor intake hose. No much response. The mechanic explained that the turbo intake should swell slightly with depressing the accelerator hard. No swelling. The mechanic then had his two assistants bloc the two exhaust outlets as he accelerated. No accumulation of exhaust gases and no sudden release when the assistants let go (no freno-effect).Conclusion: The exhaust crossover pipe burst! Hallelujah! replacement =Kenya Shillings 90,000 (USD 900) and he must remove the gear box because the famous pipe is positioned above the gear box!
But he could still have the same pipe repaired for KSh 14,000 (USD 140). I opted for the repair and told him to proceed. In the mean time I decided to research on the problem. From this forum I found that one member had been told that the body had to be removed to access the pipe! while other members agreed that the gear box is often removed to access the pipe. Other said that it could be removed by slightly lifting the body. How?
The following day the mechanic had removed the gearbox and the pipe. I looked at the pipe but it was covered in asbestos and so it was not possible to tell whether or not it had a problem. The mechanic however explained that the burst is in the flexible parts and may not be obvious.
Three days later I picked the car paid him for the labour including servicing (Ksh 20,000 or USD 200) and left. The car now had power whether or not I had been conned on the pipe repair didn't mater.
Cross over pipe before repair as taken by myself
After repair as sent to me by the mechanic
