Recent content by jhartz

  1. J

    Sell a 2010 and buy a 2013?

    I like the Range Rover Sport. 13 was the last of the na V8s. so far, has been very reliable (eats pads and had a bad battery when I was in the hospital). Not sure there is a $10k difference, tho, and there is less space in the back than in the LR3/4s due to angling of the rear window. Only...
  2. J

    Sell a 2010 and buy a 2013?

    100k miles isn't that much providing you have gone through all the usual replacements (LCA, water pump, maybe timing gear, rotors, fuel filter, tranny and dif oil changes). If none of these, maybe newer is better, cuz you are on borrowed time. Except pads and tires, you shouldn't see these...
  3. J

    First Winter Drive...

    My RRS had no trouble in 11.5" of snow with Firestone A/S Destinations. Saw a cartoon a couple of days ago: two panel, guy on the East Coast worries about this storm they had yesterday, "we called it a bombcyclone;" second panel, a lady in the MidWest says "we called it Thursday!"
  4. J

    Winter Washing Options?

    It will rust in a warm garage.
  5. J

    Winter Washing Options?

    As long as it is freezing, the salt won't harm. Living in Omaha, years ago, the better car washes opened only after their driveways wouldn't freeze. But working RR and LR forums for 13 years, I always am impressed by folks who will drive their $70k rig up a canyon full of rocks but worry...
  6. J

    Winter Washing Options?

    It is just a car: run it through the car wash, pay extra for the RainX and hot wax.
  7. J

    Mistery [non]start issue ...

    Bad battery in the key . . . . maybe dirty contacts on the brake switch
  8. J

    Lr4 Brakes

    I think the problem is with the pads that have been used since intro of the 2010 LR4s and RRS. My first LR3 weighed as much as my latest RRS and the front pads still had 4mm at 52,000; backs were at 6mm. My 2013 RRS is on its third rear pads and second fronts (3mm fronts, 4mm back at 28,000...
  9. J

    2011 LR4 CEL reading 12 codes??

    Maybe a bad battery: or loose cables, poor grounds. Do a hard reset of the battery to clear faults and errant signals and capacitors and try again. Clean the MAF sensors again, particularly the one on the left bank. Some signals are getting lost . . . As a thought: you have a lot of stuff...
  10. J

    Factory required annual service?

    In your owner's manual packet, there is a flyer on recommended services, by mileage and time. Review it. These are recommendations; but some service is required to keep your warranties in effect. Review it and the warranty pamphlet.
  11. J

    Pricing Differences for 2013 vs earlier (big changes?)

    The tensioner problem was fixed on the 2013 5 liter. Was not a problem on either the few 4.2s from 05 or later 4.4s in the LR3s. The 4.0 Jag V8, prior to US MY 2003, had plastic secondary tensioners that often split. About $3000 to fix unless you were real handy, then only $120 for new metal...
  12. J

    Ticking sound

    The 5.0 liter fuel pumps are noisy.
  13. J

    LR4 Steering Sounds

    Sounds like a dirty or rubbing clockspring. Use WD 40 or CRC 556 with a long tube and lightly lube. Had to do it once a year on my last Jag: none of the Land Rovers were as loud or disconcerting. Easy fix.
  14. J

    2011 LR4 - MPG getting worst

    I think you meant MAF sensor. Did the long term fuel trims improve? Still no codes?
  15. J

    2011 LR4 - MPG getting worst

    What I would like to see is how fixing the loose throttle body effected your fuel trims. Frankly, I think you have fixed your problem.

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