1994 Disco Tail Lights and Dash Lights OUT!

[rovermaine98]

be careful though, there are little pieces of plastic that can break, as i did, and then everything is destroyed, and suddenly you cant drive your car

 

[Mark]

Thanks Joey, I follwoed your instructions up to the point where I needed to remove the last two screws. It was too cold outside. It was a bear to break loose, but the switch did come out. I thought I was going to lose some teeth in the process when it finally came out.

I did notice that the plug had a 'burnt plastic area, upper left side. I guess this is a Dealer repair at this point. What do you think?

At least I can still drive during the day and at night with a flasklight on the dash to see my speed ! as if a LR has speed!

 

[joey]

If I recall correctly you should be able to replace the plug, it is just a matter of getting it and changing out the old one. But then again if it is that cold I am not sure I would do it outside. A little solder may warm you up, but then again it may get you into trouble as well.

 

[Mark]

I replaced the light switch tonight. It sure does feel good. The other switch had to have been worn out and despite Joey's instructions, There were no information to replace worn plastic.

Before I installed the switch, I checked all of the fuses and checked that I had voltage coming from each connector.

Some read approximately 12 volts and some were reading approximately 8 volts.

FWIW

 

[limit35]

This is a great post, I have been trying to remedy this problem for awhile now. I did a few things different and would like to add some things, because $150-200 for a poorly designed switch is lame.

7. Firmly, but again cautiously, pull the switch from the column. It has probably not been removed since vehicle assembly so will undoubtedly be stiff. This took me a little time to work out, but the switch will ONLY come out if pulled straight out through the direction of the drivers door. There are two tracks on the top and two on the bottom of the switch holding its position so it must slide in and out along these tracks.

Can't understate this step. Mine was near impossible to remove and I didn't want to pry anything with all the plastic there. Needless to say I almost landed on my ass putting direct outward pressure on it.

8. Once the switch is out, remove the two screws on the back and separate the covers from the switch body, there are two, one on top of the other, both held in by the two screws. Be careful when separating the switch as there are moving parts inside which will come out and need to go back in, in the same location.

If you screw up here, I fumbled mine going to clean it off, it is pretty logical how they go back in. If not see below...

9. Clean any residue or corrosion from the contacts within the switch using the emery cloth. A light sanding is all that should be necessary, try not to touch the contacts again with dirty fingers.

I was worried about filing down any copper on the "board" or wearing down already worn contact points, so I used alcohol soaked cotton swabs to get an amazing amount of oil and what looked like flux off my contacts, then cleaned it up with a good quality pencil eraser. Like the old fashioned #2 pencils, gum style don't work well. It is pretty much the standard way to clean edge connections on PC boards. I assume that oil is to lube the switches as they run across the copper surface, up and over the contact edges, and the plastic bump between the contacts in the center. Pretty stupid design, my switch side contacts were really beat up.

10. Reassemble the two covers on the back of the switch and plug in the two connecter blocks.

I tested the pins and the contact surface with a VOM to see if I was getting a good connection. I was worried I was going to have trouble taking it out again so I reconnected the wiring before I reinstalled it. It slips in fine connected btw.

Thanks for the post Joey, it was really helpful and my wallet likes it. After my first attempt I noticed it didn't work unless I backed off the switch like 1mm. I then noticed a tiny bump of nonconductive material on the copper, so I carefully scraped it off with a solder cleaning tool and erased that part again and it worked fine. In my case it looks like a voltage spike went through my switch, the plastic connecter around the headlight pins were browned and there was the melted piece of metal adhered to the copper surface that kept one of the switch contacts from touching on the headlight mode. All that and no blown fuse?

BTW, what is the fuse at the bottom of the steering wheel cowl for?