2016 LR4 Suspension Issue

[ftillier]

Another test you could do (that might throw codes, mind you) is to unplug the front valve block electrical connector, leave the fuses in place. With the connector unplugged, the ECU can't open/close valves. That might tell you more about what you're chasing.

 

[Longtrail]

I'm still curious to know what the actual difference is between the front and rear valve blocks - I'm having sagging of the front after my control arm replacement, not sure if it's due to having depressurized the system and some desiccant dust got into the solenoids and are keeping them from closing properly, or if the extended range of motion of the strut sprung a leak. The front valve blocks still show out-of-stock, but the rear is available. I don't have spares to dismantle and compare, but I'm curious to know if you could adapt (perhaps just by changing the connection pins) the rear block to work on the front, or if there are orifice differences or whatnot.

I'm also curious if folks have found a good o-ring kit to rebuild the valve blocks. The last one I got from Amazon was a bunch of o-rings, that might have fit, but did not look to be a match for what was on there.

I'm not sure of the difference but I seem to recall different part numbers front to rear; TBH better to be safe than sorry and make sure you use the right components.

In the thread that I linked above I believe I also copied the link to where I purchased the o'rings; ever since I did the work the LR4 has been super stable in terms of dropping (it simply doesn't drop!). I can't recommend doing the o'ring replacement enough, it's cheap, reasonably quick and there's little to lose.

 

[Longtrail]

@Longtrail thanks. I may just replace the front valve block as they are not very expensive and just have a brand new one in there. So my assumption (hopefully correct) is that I can just replace the one in the front and hopefully fix the issue. If it does not correct the issue sounds like the last thing to check is the ride height sensors. Thanks all for your thoughts and input on this.

If it was just replaced could it be an issue with how it was fitted, did the sagging happen after it was replaced? I'm a big fan of pulling it apart and looking for silica dust, I believe it wreaks havoc with the operation of the valve.

 

[Longtrail]

Here are the o'rings I purchased:

Range Rover Sport LR3 LR4 Air Suspension Valve Block O Ring Seal

Range Rover Sport LR3 LR4 Air Suspension Valve Block O Ring Seal

www.britishpartsofutah.com

 

[ryanjl]

If you found O-Rings that actually work, you're the first I've heard of. Hardly any of the ones I got fit.

 

[Longtrail]

I was in the UK for three weeks this past summer; the rig didn't drop at all while we were away. Not sure what else to say, I'm a believer! I used a tiny amount of silicon grease to make sure they're free to work; I serviced all three valves (front, middle and rear for the newbies).

In fact Ryan you were absolutely instrumental in keeping me on track with this work .

 

[ftillier]

The kit I got from amazon had clearly different sized O-Rings from what was fitted. Would they have worked? Perhaps, but they were far enough off that I just returned them.

 

[ftillier]

My kit from British parts of Utah came in today, and I'm pleased to report that the kit looks spot on:

Top is the old, bottom is the new.

 

[ftillier]

Ok, the smaller one is too thin:

The rest seem good though.

 

[Longtrail]

Wish I could remember to advise you but I don't, as mentioned; the kit worked well, take your time, clean everything up and use a tiny amount of silicon grease to help with the sealing.