ABS Fault

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joey

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Diagnosing ABS Faults is actually rather easy. Here is the basic procedure:


Tools

Small phillips screwdriver
Short peice of wire (6" or so if fine)

The procedure

Turn off the ignition before you start. Using the screwdriver, Take the side panel off the seat pedestal on the drivers side. There are 3-4 screws holding it on. You then need to pull the ABS warning Relay. Its a small square plug that has a green base and is the relay closest to the front of the seat.

Under the seat, you will find a small 4 pin connector near the back of the seat pedestal. It is blue. You want to connect the small wire between two holes. One hole has a black wire with a pink stripe. The other hole has a black wire. Bridge these two together and turn on the ignition. The ABS light will light, and then go out after 5 seconds. The ABS light will then start to blink in a pattern.

The pattern is: Pause, flash, pause, flash. This signifies the start of the pattern. Then there will be a 2.5 second pause and then a series of flashes which gives the first number of the code (2-6). This will be followed by a 2.5 second pause, and then a series of flashes for the second part of the number (0-15).

The sequence of start phase, first and second parts will continue until terminated by the operator, thus allowing the code obtained to be rechecked. To terminate the sequence disconnect the prewired plug from the diagnoostic plug. Wait for cycle to end before code will clear. NOTE: Termination will clear the memory of that particular fault. Do not terminate the sequence if unsure of the code number.

The memory is capable of storing more than one fault. To search the memory, reconnect the diagnostic plug, and await the next start phase. Repeat procedure until no further faults are stored in the memory. The memory is cleared when a long pause of 7.5 secs occurs after start phase.
 

joey

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The Codes

Fault Code


Reason


Remedy


2-12 - Front Right


Too Large an air gap, or


Check sensor setting and for damage to

2-13 - Rear Left


sensor has been forced


exciter ring. Check for rear bearing endfloat

2.14 - Front Left


out by exciter ring


2-15 - Rear Right



5-12 Front Right


Sensor or wiring has


Check wiring

5-13 Rear Left


intermittend fault


5.14 Front Left


5-15 Rear Right



6-12 Front Right


No output from sensor


Check sensor setting. Fit new sensor bush

6-13 Rear Left


Sensor may have too large


if necessary

6-14 Front Left


an air gap


6-15 Rear Right



4-12 Front Right


Wiring to sensor is broken


Check wiring or fit new sensor

4-13 Rear Left


or sensor resistance is too


4.14 Front Left


high


4-15 Rear Right



2-6 Stop light switch


Faulty switch or wiring.


Check that the pedal returns fully to stop. Slowly


Fuse A5 blown or not fitted


operate pedal by hand and check that 2 clicks are


heard from switch; stop lights come on at first click.


Otherwise check wiring and fuse


2-7


Continuous supply to ECU


Check wiring and valve


with ignition off. Faulty valve



relay or wiring



2-8


No voltage to ABS solenoid


Check wiring


valves. Faulty valve relay or



wiring



3-0 to 3-9


Open circuit in connection


Check wiring and connectors. Renew ECU if


from ECU to solenoid valve


wiring is correct


in booster, on in ECU



4-0 to 4-9


Short circuit to ground in


Check wiring and connectors. Renew ECU if


connection from ECU to


wiring is correct


solenoid valve in booster



5-0 to 5-9


Short circuit in connection to


Check wiring and connectors. Renew ECU if


12 volt in connection from


wiring is correct


ECU to solenoid valve in



booster. Possible ground fault



6-0 to 6-9


Short circuit between two


Check wiring, connectors and booster. Renew


connections from ECU to


ECU if no fault found.


solenoid valve in booster
 

greg409

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That would be the one, I'm not sure which years your's is for, but the one I did only required jumper in obdII across 5&15.

Same process, tho'

luck,greg
 

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