Anyone have the Traxide Dual Bat kit?

[Houm_WA]

...I thought it was 1.21 Jiggawatts.

Seriously, the dual-battery deal sounds cool. I've thought about it, but other goodies take priority...like RS Sliders next spring.

 

[techboydino]

...I thought it was 1.21 Jiggawatts.

Seriously, the dual-battery deal sounds cool. I've thought about it, but other goodies take priority...like RS Sliders next spring.

your right. 1.21. i was too excited to think properly.

 

[craiglud]

I have been running this kit for over a year and its great. I have a fridge that I leave in the car almost all the time and it never fails to amaze me how well this system works. The only thing I would like to see on a system like this is the ability to manually connect the batteries in order to jump the primary battery. Today I just carry the jumper cables. I guess that is manual

 

[jwest]

....the ability to manually connect the batteries in order to jump the primary battery. ...

That's what I see missing, the ability to manually choose the combined or isolated configuration like the Wrangler dual kit allows. I think with any of these it wouldn't hurt to have your favorite private shop tech customize it to your personal preferences.

Also, I don't understand it entirely but that website info above appears to suggest that if in a run down situation like parasitic draw or just having other things on like the arb fridge, it would actually allow use of the primary starting battery...that is NOT something I want happening at all, ever. I have been in some super cold places and don't like the idea at all.

I had the lr3 rewired so that many interior lights I like to use while camping only draw from the 2nd battery such as reading lamps in the 3rd row area, custom rear hatch light, all l&r passenger lamps (not center dome lights but the left and right of the three) so that when doors are left open, I can continue using the inside lights at night without also pulling from main battery.

I also have 3 extra 12v in the rear area (left, right, and middle row) and an inverter - all of course drawn from the 2nd battery which is an Odyssey 2150, the biggest thing you can fit under the lr3 hood (requires custom compartment refab)

 

[techboydino]

Also, I don't understand it entirely but that website info above appears to suggest that if in a run down situation like parasitic draw or just having other things on like the arb fridge, it would actually allow use of the primary starting battery...that is NOT something I want happening at all, ever. I have been in some super cold places and don't like the idea at all.

I dont think that is the case. below a specified votage (im gonna find out) the main battery is isolated. so no chance of losing your starting battery.

"Once the common voltage of both batteries drops to a pre-set level, the SC40 automatically isolates the cranking battery, leaving it with more than enough remaining stored power to easily start the most stubborn motor on the coldest of mornings."

 

[jwest]

Ok, but I still don't like the idea of it allowing ANY use of the primary battery. Why or when would you want to use any of it anyway?

Leaving it up to someone across the world to decide that I have "enough" battery left when I'm in -40F for a week....I don't think so. I'll use my switch and think for myself

 

[techboydino]

Im gonna clarify on "surplus voltage" tomorrow. I understand what your saying but it doesnt really bother me because currently Im running off only one battery anyway. Ill find out the scoop.

 

[jwest]

oh, another thing but it may not matter on the lr3/4: my 04 disco has the same set up with a switch and when I don't use the disco for a month or two straight, the primary gets drained sometimes enough to not start. It's very nice to just be able to switch to combined, wait a few minutes and voila, it starts right up.

Of course I'd like to have the parasitic issue resolved regardless.

 

[craiglud]

The kit allows both batteries to be connected so that charging of the secondary battery is automatic. It also allows both batteries to remain connected as long as the primary voltage is above 12.3v? if I remember correctly. This configuration allows for extended run time for appliances running off the secondary battery. For example, I have the Engel fridge in my LR3 that I leave in the truck every day 24/7 set at about 37*. I also live in warm and sunny Arizona. On hot days where the temp in the car is over 120* that fridge works a little harder to cool. The extra run time allowed by this set up means that I can safely leave the fridge running without worrying about a dead primary battery. In the heat of the summer the secondary battery can power the fridge for just about 2 days before it is drained. In the winter it can go for several days or more. The literature from the traxide website says this setup is about equivalent to a 20% larger secondary battery.
I have run the secondary battery down from the fridge running too long without running the truck and charging the secondary and I have never been left stranded from a dead primary. The set up is quick and easy and once installed it has functioned as advertised. As already pointed out if you need to jump your primary battery you will need to use your jumper cables!

 

[techboydino]

If jumping off the other battery is required, you could always run a 4 gauge cable over with a screw type disconnect. common ground applies to a single cable across the firewall should do it. then just disconnect until next time.