Brake problem help requested

[stufrowin]

You don't need a press. Just buy the whole Timken hub assembly off Amazon and borrow a gear puller from your neighborhood O'relly Advanced Auto Zone.

Here's a video of it being done without the gear puller.

For front I agree, but rear I don't believe they sell as assembly and you will need a press as bearing is a press fit to hub. If the bearing is bad enough to make brakes hit rotor it should be easy to diagnos. My rear wheel was bad enough that the emergency shoes where hitting inside of rotor/drum when turning and other random bumps etc. Just jack up each wheel and start wiggling. Good luck

 

[OL Trekker]

Hmmm. I had the same problem under heavy braking. At the time I was running 20" wheels with new 275x40 Continental tires. The standard wheel diameter for my year was 19" which prevented a selection of excellent off road rubber so I went to 18" wheels and Cooper ATP tires. Apparently my '06 is sensitive to tire metrics because a) the 20" wheels did not balance well with the Continental rubber and were smaller in overall diameter (wheel + tire) than the 18's with the 275x70 profile ATP's. When I switched back to the 18's the problem disappeared. So, if you are running bigger after market wheels and rubber than came with the LR4 and still have the original wheels, I suggest putting them on and seeing if the problem is gone. The other possible contributor to severe shake under braking would be one, or possible both front shocks gone bad. A single bad shock on the rear could be causing stufroin's problem.

 

[vietec]

I shook the wheels and got no wobble, and I got the vibrations even without braking at highway speeds. I've tried parking without setting the EPB everytime and have not gotten the vibration again, fingers are crossed that it's just some anomaly that won't happen again.

 

[XLR8TOR]

Hey so I have what I'm pretty sure is a brake problem. Every now and then when I drive higher speeds on the highway, I'll get a vibration that starts small then gets pretty crazy. When I stop and check it, you definitely smell burning brakes, so I went ahead and replaced the following:
-Rotors
-pads
-parking brake shoes (old ones were rusty)
-Calipers

I thought I fixed the problem but recently I had it happen again. Anyone know of a common problem that I have missed? I didn't install the bias springs that were included in the brake pad sets because the manual states "Note: If equipped. Install the bias spring(s)." That is the only thing I had to guess on and I didn't see one prior, so I figure it was not necessarily equipped with them. Anyhow, any ideas before I toss in the towel and take it to a car shop?

What year is your LR4? I'm having a similar problem with my 2014. My drivers side rear caliper seemed to stick at 70 MPH and I could see the whole rear end shaking. Mine's going to the dealer on Saturday for investigation.

 

[vietec]

What year is your LR4? I'm having a similar problem with my 2014. My drivers side rear caliper seemed to stick at 70 MPH and I could see the whole rear end shaking. Mine's going to the dealer on Saturday for investigation.

I'm running a 2011. Mine is so bad that the protective paint on the hub portion of the rotor peeled off early. I'll replace it after I figure out the problem.

 

[XLR8TOR]

I'm running a 2011. Mine is so bad that the protective paint on the hub portion of the rotor peeled off early. I'll replace it after I figure out the problem.

Thanks...I'll report back on what I find out from the dealer -- it'll be a few days.

 

[XLR8TOR]

So I heard back from the dealer and it sounds like it was the emergency brake not disengaging properly which caused the left rear to drag and superheat the rotor and everything else. A little worried about this since it happened at 70 MPH and 5 hours from home.