Jump start short + puff of smoke = charging sys. fault

[theman]

2013 LR4. Jumped dead batt today and the pos clamp hit the (assinine-oriented) battery retainer plate which rewarded me with a bunch of smoke. Assumed it was wire sheathing melting, but after removing battery I can't see any signs of short/overheating of wires anywhere the harness is visible, or with any of the connectors/terminals. Have replaced with new battery (was on the way to get it when this needed to be jumped).

As result I'm getting the Charging System Fault. When I put a meter to the new battery, car off, I'm getting ~12.5/12.8V. Car running, even with max load I can test w.car in P (AC full blast, heated seats, wheel, high beam, hazards, radio, int. light on), I'm getting 14.0/14.1V. Ergo, I understand this to mean there is no actual charging system fault since those #s don't lie, i.e. 14V output means the alt is charging the battery.

With the left turn signal dash light also illuminates the tow icon.

Does the fault code just need to be reset? I don't have a code reader, but would be interested in recommendations. Assume I can't get a practically-priced device to reset faults...?

Discuss...thanks for replies.

 

[avslash]

Hard to say where un controlled current would flow.

I would agree that if you are getting 14.0 volts that your alternator is functional.

I would check the relevant fuses first, and then read the code it is throwing.

Stop by one of the chain auto part stores. They should be able to read the code for free.

ETA: isn't there a separate control module on these trucks that controls the charging strategy? Seems like the most obvious place to start given a known arc to ground and subsequent charging system fault.

 

[mbw]

Could be the BMS on the negative terminal. The current jumped through the body ground, through the bms into the - on the batt.

Best to pull codes, check fuses and go from there.

You could have messed with the alternator also, 14v, but how many amps? The regulators on those can fail and do some strange things.

 

[BikePilot]

If the charging voltage is correct so is the amperage, can't have one without the other so no worries there. I would take a close look at as many ground locations as possible. That smoke came from somewhere and whatever it is is probably in need of help. It's possible it overheated a ground connection.

 

[Ian Morrison]

2013 LR4. Jumped dead batt today and the pos clamp hit the (assinine-oriented) battery retainer plate which rewarded me with a bunch of smoke. Assumed it was wire sheathing melting, but after removing battery I can't see any signs of short/overheating of wires anywhere the harness is visible, or with any of the connectors/terminals. Have replaced with new battery (was on the way to get it when this needed to be jumped).

As result I'm getting the Charging System Fault. When I put a meter to the new battery, car off, I'm getting ~12.5/12.8V. Car running, even with max load I can test w.car in P (AC full blast, heated seats, wheel, high beam, hazards, radio, int. light on), I'm getting 14.0/14.1V. Ergo, I understand this to mean there is no actual charging system fault since those #s don't lie, i.e. 14V output means the alt is charging the battery.

With the left turn signal dash light also illuminates the tow icon.

Does the fault code just need to be reset? I don't have a code reader, but would be interested in recommendations. Assume I can't get a practically-priced device to reset faults...?

Discuss...thanks for replies.

Get your Alternator tested before looking for any other problems. An Alternator under load if working properly should give you still 13+ volts. Your Land Rover 4 realise on a good fully charged battery

2013 LR4. Jumped dead batt today and the pos clamp hit the (assinine-oriented) battery retainer plate which rewarded me with a bunch of smoke. Assumed it was wire sheathing melting, but after removing battery I can't see any signs of short/overheating of wires anywhere the harness is visible, or with any of the connectors/terminals. Have replaced with new battery (was on the way to get it when this needed to be jumped).

As result I'm getting the Charging System Fault. When I put a meter to the new battery, car off, I'm getting ~12.5/12.8V. Car running, even with max load I can test w.car in P (AC full blast, heated seats, wheel, high beam, hazards, radio, int. light on), I'm getting 14.0/14.1V. Ergo, I understand this to mean there is no actual charging system fault since those #s don't lie, i.e. 14V output means the alt is charging the battery.

With the left turn signal dash light also illuminates the tow icon.

Does the fault code just need to be reset? I don't have a code reader, but would be interested in recommendations. Assume I can't get a practically-priced device to reset faults...?

Discuss...thanks for replies.

The Discovery 4 is very similar to the Discovery 3 and when my Battery failed I got numerous fault codes appear on my car. It told me I had a charging system fault too. Once the new battery was fitted all the fault codes remained on my screen so I had to reset each code to get them to distinguish.

 

[rally3]

There is a small wire that runs from the positive terminal to the battery monitoring unit on the negative post, that wire is most likely burnt up, I thing it is a fuseable link type wire.

 

[Gnomad]

If the charging voltage is correct so is the amperage, can't have one without the other so no worries there. I would take a close look at as many ground locations as possible. That smoke came from somewhere and whatever it is is probably in need of help. It's possible it overheated a ground connection.

That is absolutely untrue. You can have bad diodes that will give you full charging voltage but not charging current, it has happened to me, not on a Rover but has been a thing. I'd take it to a store with testing capabilities and find out for sure.