jwest
Full Access Member
Aside from all the crap to remove to make access easy, the job was really simpler than expected.
There are only 2 mounting bolts and 2 wiring connections. One has to be careful with the clip connector or course. .
I got a new Denso unit from Britparts Utah and saved roughly $900 over a dealer job. I may see if it's cheap to get the old one rebuilt to have around for next time.
Literally the bulk of time is spent removing stuff to access the starter itself. I removed the following:
Wheel of course...
1-belly pans
2-wheel arch and fender liner
3-aluminum heat shields (3) that are up behind the upper control arm (UCA)
4-UCA because it made access MUCH easier and I'm proficient with it's removal already anyway.
5-from below there's a wiring loom tied to a metal tab/mount that may be in the way so I removed tab. May not have needed to do so.
The starter itself has one bolt accessed easily from below once you identify which bolt it is by studying new starter in your hand and where it 'should' be. This bolt goes through the crank case and 'into' the starter from the back toward the front.
That's all from below.
From wheel side you can see the upper bolt that mounts on the starter tab and towards the rear into the crank case (or whatever case it mounts to).
In the same area there are two wire connections. One is a heavy durable power source with rubber red end cover similar to how a positive battery terminal cable might have. Under the cover is a 13mm. Be gentle when dealing with these as the stud is copper it appeared.
The connection telling it to engage is one of those BE DAMN CAREFUL plastic snap type where you have to press on just the right little bit to leverage the catch to release itself. THIS is why I wanted full access and visual aid. Next time I could probably do it by feel and not have to remove A arm. Maybe. The A arm made access to upper mount bolt super easy as well.
That's basically it. Removal of starter once connected points are off is your basic wiggle the weird shape through exhaust and frame parts and then reverse that for the new one. I sprayed electrical contact cleaner on the plastic connector first to aid in removal in case of mud or dust causing it to not slide out.
It helps to have a lot of room under the vehicle so I used my super HD stands which have a minimum 18" height and max 24" with large foot print. These go right under front frame at lower control arm point and under each sill below the A pillar.
2 24" floor jacks are used to lift at the end of slider right in front of stands.
Another is used to manipulate the wheel knuckle as needed.
Oh, the air system was emptied as well. This makes dealing with the strut movement and UCA easy and safe. This can be done easily at the valve block under same side fender liner up front or via IIDtool before lifting.
There are only 2 mounting bolts and 2 wiring connections. One has to be careful with the clip connector or course. .
I got a new Denso unit from Britparts Utah and saved roughly $900 over a dealer job. I may see if it's cheap to get the old one rebuilt to have around for next time.
Literally the bulk of time is spent removing stuff to access the starter itself. I removed the following:
Wheel of course...
1-belly pans
2-wheel arch and fender liner
3-aluminum heat shields (3) that are up behind the upper control arm (UCA)
4-UCA because it made access MUCH easier and I'm proficient with it's removal already anyway.
5-from below there's a wiring loom tied to a metal tab/mount that may be in the way so I removed tab. May not have needed to do so.
The starter itself has one bolt accessed easily from below once you identify which bolt it is by studying new starter in your hand and where it 'should' be. This bolt goes through the crank case and 'into' the starter from the back toward the front.
That's all from below.
From wheel side you can see the upper bolt that mounts on the starter tab and towards the rear into the crank case (or whatever case it mounts to).
In the same area there are two wire connections. One is a heavy durable power source with rubber red end cover similar to how a positive battery terminal cable might have. Under the cover is a 13mm. Be gentle when dealing with these as the stud is copper it appeared.
The connection telling it to engage is one of those BE DAMN CAREFUL plastic snap type where you have to press on just the right little bit to leverage the catch to release itself. THIS is why I wanted full access and visual aid. Next time I could probably do it by feel and not have to remove A arm. Maybe. The A arm made access to upper mount bolt super easy as well.
That's basically it. Removal of starter once connected points are off is your basic wiggle the weird shape through exhaust and frame parts and then reverse that for the new one. I sprayed electrical contact cleaner on the plastic connector first to aid in removal in case of mud or dust causing it to not slide out.
It helps to have a lot of room under the vehicle so I used my super HD stands which have a minimum 18" height and max 24" with large foot print. These go right under front frame at lower control arm point and under each sill below the A pillar.
2 24" floor jacks are used to lift at the end of slider right in front of stands.
Another is used to manipulate the wheel knuckle as needed.
Oh, the air system was emptied as well. This makes dealing with the strut movement and UCA easy and safe. This can be done easily at the valve block under same side fender liner up front or via IIDtool before lifting.