Lr4 Brakes

[94speedster]

Update. As previously posted, I replaced my original pads at 40k miles. I keep a close watch on both rotor thickness and pad thickness (I have my own garage at the racetrack with lift), and FINALLY replaced all four original rotors at 80K miles! Rotors still had 1-2mm until min, but the pads were ready for replacement at 40k miles (again).

Rather than go with OEM parts, I bought rotors from British Atlantic and Delphi pads from Auto Parts Network. Total cost was $460.23, and I did the install myself.

Car now has 87,000 miles on it, and it feels damn good...

The ONLY problem with doing your work is 1) you need to spend $$$ to get the right tools, and 2) it takes precious time to learn everything for the first time.

For instance, the biggest challenge with the rotor change is the massive torque on 2 key bolts. For the life of me, they would NOT budge with a breaker bar - or a second BIGGER breaker bar... I finally pulled out my pneumatic air gun, turned up the pressure WAY above normal settings, and had at it. Yup - it worked.

My advice if you don't have the time for DIY? Go into the dealer with the FACTS and ask them to SHOW YOU why they plan to do something first...

For your records:

MIN rotor thickness (FRONT): 27mm
MIN rotor thickness (REAR): 18mm

Have the dealership with the wheels off show you the micrometer readings... Trust me - once they see that you are a saavy customer, they won't try to game you anymore...

Good luck!

-B

 

[lexman34]

Very true.

That would be me. LR MAN/NY would not service my brakes until i had OEM brakes pads installed. I brought some aftermarket pads. So when i went in for service they said my rotors were bad and it was because of my aftermarket pads and they told me i had to change the pads to OEM if i wanted them to change the rotors. My aftermarket pads were only 4 months old. In hindsight i should have just told them NO and went back to the indy shop and had them do it but the service guy sold me on this type of vehicle should only be serviced by the dealer while in warranty for my own benefit. My warranty ended last year so he will not be seeing me much more. I just wish i was mechanically inclined to do this work myself. We should all be able to change the oil, pads, rotors and sensors and save thousands over the life of ownership.

Will using EBC or other aftermarket parts void the warranty? I believe I've read elsewhere in the forum that someone was having a warranty repair performed and they had aftermarket brakes on and the dealer wouldn't perform the service until OEM brakes were reinstalled. Is there any validity to this and is it even legal? I'm hoping to do my next break job and have been researching aftermarket parts, but don't want to actually create more of a hassle for myself.

Thanks

 

[94speedster]

Lexman - DYI oil change is a piece of cake. Check out my DIY thread. It's easy, and only tool is a $110 pump off Amazon. You'll also need to buy the "special" oil and the filter. As our engines are sourced through Jaguar, I pay $25 for the Jaguar XF filter (rather than $50 for the same filter through Land Rover) and spot price the oil from both Jaguar and Land Rover. In Utah, the Jaguar dealer seems to be $1-2 cheaper per quart. Oil changes are SO EASY!

Pads are easy too. I found rotors to be a bit more challenging, as you need to adjust the emergency brake (it was a PITA for me) and those damn high-torque bolts could NOT be broken by me with a breaker bar. I don't run the pad sensors anymore b/c I check my tire pressures and brake pad thickness bi-weekly by walking around the car with a flashlight. (It was also a PITA to route the sensor wires up under the plastic liner to the control unit. Why bother?) Sure- I can only see the outside pads, but that is a good indicator. If you invest in a mirror on a pole, you can see the inside pads quite easily...

I highly recommend DIY - especially for the oil/filter change! You will save a lot of money.

-B

 

[lexman34]

Ok..I am going to try...

You know what....i think i am going to give the Oil DIY a try. I am going to go to your thread and read it over again and when i am due again in the summer i am going to give it a shot. $200 to give LR is crazy twice a year. I am sorry but i am not going to give the brake thing a shot. Do not have the space or patience but the Oil...that looks like fun. Thanks for giving me this sign to stop saying "I can't"!

Lexman - DYI oil change is a piece of cake. Check out my DIY thread. It's easy, and only tool is a $110 pump off Amazon. You'll also need to buy the "special" oil and the filter. As our engines are sourced through Jaguar, I pay $25 for the Jaguar XF filter (rather than $50 for the same filter through Land Rover) and spot price the oil from both Jaguar and Land Rover. In Utah, the Jaguar dealer seems to be $1-2 cheaper per quart. Oil changes are SO EASY!

Pads are easy too. I found rotors to be a bit more challenging, as you need to adjust the emergency brake (it was a PITA for me) and those damn high-torque bolts could NOT be broken by me with a breaker bar. I don't run the pad sensors anymore b/c I check my tire pressures and brake pad thickness bi-weekly by walking around the car with a flashlight. (It was also a PITA to route the sensor wires up under the plastic liner to the control unit. Why bother?) Sure- I can only see the outside pads, but that is a good indicator. If you invest in a mirror on a pole, you can see the inside pads quite easily...

I highly recommend DIY - especially for the oil/filter change! You will save a lot of money.



-B

 

[umbertob]

You can find the OEM oil filter for about $25/27 (delivered free in 2 days if you are a Prime member) on Amazon now: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFVTL9K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PS: Castrol's OEM oil on eBay currently for about $9/quart delivered, while they last (you need +/- 8 quarts for an oil change): http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181325860921?lpid=82. Not bad considering local dealers here won't even sell it to you, regardless of price. I use Mobil 1 5W-20, available from Costco for half the price of this Castrol, and change it every 7500 miles.

Sorry about the thread hijack.

 

[lexman34]

Thanks for the info

I love this FORUM!

You can find the OEM oil filter for about $25/27 (delivered free in 2 days if you are a Prime member) on Amazon now: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AFVTL9K/ref=oh_details_o03_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

PS: Castrol's OEM oil on eBay currently for about $9/quart delivered, while they last (you need +/- 8 quarts for an oil change): http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181325860921?lpid=82. Not bad considering local dealers here won't even sell it to you, regardless of price. I use Mobil 1 5W-20, available from Costco for half the price of this Castrol, and change it every 7500 miles.

Sorry about the thread hijack.

 

[rover831]

LR4Brakes

Having similar issues. Had to replace both pads and rotors at 30,000 miles, now at 55,000 having to replace both again. I had planned to get rid of this car but now I'll keep it another year since I'm putting more money into it. Definitely not the driver, but the car. I only had to replace brakes once on my previous Lexus LX which was also a large heavy car which I kept until I traded it in at 80,000 miles.

 

[mbw]

Update. As previously posted, I replaced my original pads at 40k miles. I keep a close watch on both rotor thickness and pad thickness (I have my own garage at the racetrack with lift), and FINALLY replaced all four original rotors at 80K miles! Rotors still had 1-2mm until min, but the pads were ready for replacement at 40k miles (again).

Rather than go with OEM parts, I bought rotors from British Atlantic and Delphi pads from Auto Parts Network. Total cost was $460.23, and I did the install myself.

Car now has 87,000 miles on it, and it feels damn good...

The ONLY problem with doing your work is 1) you need to spend $$$ to get the right tools, and 2) it takes precious time to learn everything for the first time.

For instance, the biggest challenge with the rotor change is the massive torque on 2 key bolts. For the life of me, they would NOT budge with a breaker bar - or a second BIGGER breaker bar... I finally pulled out my pneumatic air gun, turned up the pressure WAY above normal settings, and had at it. Yup - it worked.

My advice if you don't have the time for DIY? Go into the dealer with the FACTS and ask them to SHOW YOU why they plan to do something first...

For your records:

MIN rotor thickness (FRONT): 27mm
MIN rotor thickness (REAR): 18mm

Have the dealership with the wheels off show you the micrometer readings... Trust me - once they see that you are a saavy customer, they won't try to game you anymore...

Good luck!

-B

Did you also buy sensors? 460 seems like a good price. It looks like OEM parts on http://www.roverparts.com/Parts/8887.cfm including sensors for all four is $850.

I don't know if I want to go aftermarket though. Especially slotted rotors. How did you end up picking those parts?

 

[mbw]

I assume the bolts you are talking about or the brake caliper anchor bolts? 203 ft. lbs.

 

[atlantaM3]

Are you sure that is 203 ft-lbs? That is a massive amount of torque for that type of bolt...
.