Oil in intake manifold

[stufrowin]

In the middle of another project and I found several ounces of oil in the intake manifold.

Obviously concerned, it seems its coming from the right side breather hose that connects to the right valve cover.

My understanding is the the right valve cover houses all the oil separator and PCV valves.

Does this sound like a failed PCV valve? Or Vacuum leak? Only other thing is a couple weeks ago I drove it for 1 day and I forgot to hook up the breather hose to the air intake.

Could that cause that much oil to make it past.

Has anyone had a PCV fail on these? Need to replace valve cover or just valve? Thanks

 

[Azoo]

I would clean out all the oil and monitor for a week or two, if you still see oil in the intake manifold then i would suggest to start from the PCV valve.

 

[stufrowin]

Thanks.. that's my plan. Unfortunately I think I have to replace the entire valve cover as its built in.

 

[ktm525]

Thanks.. that's my plan. Unfortunately I think I have to replace the entire valve cover as its built in.

Of course it is. Who designs these things?

 

[BeemerNut]

"several ounces of oil" from one day of driving has me asking questions about the engine's overall internal mechanical condition.
Mileage plus how it was driven and maintained all it's life?
Compression check, talking a bleed down compression check establishing condition of the rings causing excessive blow-by.
Send a camera with light, (endoscope) down the intake runners checking the carbon buildup on the backside of the intake valves.
Compare carbon buildup on valves closest to the valve cover air oil seperator discharge hose against the farthest away intake runner valve
backsides comparing the amount of carbon buildup.
An indication of large amount differences caused by blow-by, worn rings.
Have seen carbon buildup looking like a ping pong ball cut in half, hole drilled then installed over the valve stem with ball flat surface contacting back side of intake valve flat surface.
Massive carbon buildup domes hard as coal restricting air and fuel flow hence loss of power.
Bad valve stem seals another cause of carbon buildup.
Oil with oil mist and air separator not been cleaned and working properly?
Seen them filled up solid with oil, might as well be a house with a fat balloon section in it not separating oil mist from air.

A known common intake valve carbon buildup problem with these older 3.9/4.0 and 4.6 engines in perfect mechanical condition of under 30K miles.
Chemical with mechanical cleaning process to a like shiny new back sides of intake valves a day of labor under the hood process.
Intake manifold left in place a carbon removal operation.

My two cents, hope it helps.
Carl.....~~=o&o>.....

 

[BeemerNut]

Of course it is. Who designs these things?

Send money order or credit card numbers to India and say Ta Ta to your money. Oh no I mean send your Rupees to Tatra in India who presently own LR.
Doing the around the world loop, GM engine then England, to BMW, to Ford and presently India. No disrespect to countries mentioned.

Carl.....~~=o&o>.......

 

[BeemerNut]

Thanks.. that's my plan. Unfortunately I think I have to replace the entire valve cover as its built in.

Any possible way of flushing it out with scarb cleaner like Berrymann's B12 cleane then a solvent wash?
Oil / vapor seperators have baffles as well aluminum *** scrubber material packed inside only requiring flushing out then air blasting dry for reuse.
Worth a try unless they are giving away valve covers, NOT!
The "PCV valve" mention, if it were plugged up you'd have massive engine oil leaks everywhere due to positive crankcase pressures from normal blow-by.

 

[stufrowin]

Engine performance is fine. It has been very well maintained all of its life. Yes these can build up lots of carbon on intake. I actually had the entire manifold off to do a manual intake valve cleaning with cleaner and brushes. Changed out plugs everything looked normal for 90k. Hence my thought on PCV. Its not totally plugged as I can blow air in and out of it ( the vent hose) I didn't even notice there was oil in the intake until I lifted it up to place it back in and oil started pouring out..***. Checked it again today and the vent hose is moist with oil but no major puddling inside intake. Reset the throttle body and transmission values and went through a relearn process, I assumed it was similar to Ford's. Seems to be shifting smoother.

I love the car but my wife is tired of it breaking down and towing it back home. I'm afraid were going to have to part with her. (I mean the LR4 )

 

[BeemerNut]

C


Any LR4 bulletins out regarding your oiling problem?
Sure bet any LR problems you tell the dealerships will tell you your the first one with this problem. This a standard LR dealership reply i've found.

My wifey and Land Rover also a bad combination at my end with her being stranded several times locally in town. Bad knees bone on bone grinding she wasn't a happy camper walking.
Bump started it several times, thank goodness it's a 5 speed and only reason why I bought it. Well that aluminum V8 going back to the 60's working on them.
Several starter failures being used as a soccer mom vehicle for ten years.
Installed a Nippon starter, problem solved lasting years plus wifey went out and purchased her own car. Zero problems approaching 100K miles.
Back seat windows failed in the down position on the freeway, wasn't bad until it started to rain inside the D1 that evening parked outside.
PC board with bad solder joints a quick fix.
Black D1 with AC that quit working another summertime creature discomfort feature.
Shifting in stop and go traffic another PITA fail with the gutless 3.9 now a 4.6 swap with performance mods done to it.
Exhaust valve stuck open stumbling, turned into a burnt valve 150 miles from home. Limped home on 7 cylinders, disconnected injector power.
Wifey would gladly push the button on a car crusher regarding this 95 D1 I now have all to myself since 2010.
Finally no oil leaks, got it sealed up.
Good luck with your LR4.

Carl.....~~=o&o>.....

 

[LR4 2011]

Yes you can buy a replacement pcv LR133579. Plastic cap must be removed by lifting six tabs and prying up on cap at the same time.