Sure bet a replacement PCV valve is a lot cheaper than a valve cover replacement knowing LR pricing.
Older vehicles have PCV valves you could take apart and clean, one snap ring your inside, cleaning and reinstall within 10 minutes. Never replacing one with a modern replacement throwaway. OEM pvc of the 60's era surpassed 900K miles seven years ago.
Being disconnected caused that much oil buildup in one day or that engine sucking up that much oil normally? If so the intakes must have buildup like hard coal, talking 1/4" buildup seen on engines especially older 3.9, 4.0 & 4.6 engines and not at high mileage, seen under 100K in sad shape carbon buildup. Cleaning making a difference in performance increase you can feel removing a big intake restriction. Bad enough the crappy misaligned intake to head ports surpassing 3/16" on average.
Remove the ram tube base (velocity stacks), seal off each intake runner keeping crap out of the other runners having intake valves held open, set number one on TDC compression.
Flexible parts Picker-Upper with a cloth towel cut in 2 1/2" to 3" squares soaked with Berrymann B12 carb cleaner then start mucking out the each port and back of the intake valve until clean including stems a sure sign if worn stem seals are an issue. Clean like new smooth again, air blast clean out any left carbon crap, send down the Endo scope checking your work progress.
Seal off the cleaned runner then repeat with the next cylinder set on TDC compression.
This with a wet runner intake system, injectors spraying at the back of the intake valve vs direct injection only sucking air, a dry intake system unless your sucking a lot of blowby fumes and oil? A lot of cold starts with short runs to work or store accelerating buildup especially condensation causing sludge another issue.
Another feature especially with automatics being low rpm upshift turds especially the with older pushrod engines driven around town a lot resulting in increased compression due to carbon buildup unless driven hard once in a while keeping the engine cleaned out. A hard run up to 5,500 2nd to 4th then 5th pulling to 5K keeps the engine carbon buildup free combustion chambers then running better overall.
The hard thing is finding an area able to stand on it over 125 mph for over a mile. The Highway Patrol can be sneaky at a wrong time and frown on this type of tuneup.
I've seen what happens with walnut blasting BMW intakes know to have intake valve carbon buildup. Friends muffler shop business with removed Cats blocked up buy burnt walnut pieces stuck in the tight grid of the Cats.
No thanks i'll muck out when it comes to that, so far 87K not required. OB1 for a reason.....~~=o&o>......
Older vehicles have PCV valves you could take apart and clean, one snap ring your inside, cleaning and reinstall within 10 minutes. Never replacing one with a modern replacement throwaway. OEM pvc of the 60's era surpassed 900K miles seven years ago.
Being disconnected caused that much oil buildup in one day or that engine sucking up that much oil normally? If so the intakes must have buildup like hard coal, talking 1/4" buildup seen on engines especially older 3.9, 4.0 & 4.6 engines and not at high mileage, seen under 100K in sad shape carbon buildup. Cleaning making a difference in performance increase you can feel removing a big intake restriction. Bad enough the crappy misaligned intake to head ports surpassing 3/16" on average.
Remove the ram tube base (velocity stacks), seal off each intake runner keeping crap out of the other runners having intake valves held open, set number one on TDC compression.
Flexible parts Picker-Upper with a cloth towel cut in 2 1/2" to 3" squares soaked with Berrymann B12 carb cleaner then start mucking out the each port and back of the intake valve until clean including stems a sure sign if worn stem seals are an issue. Clean like new smooth again, air blast clean out any left carbon crap, send down the Endo scope checking your work progress.
Seal off the cleaned runner then repeat with the next cylinder set on TDC compression.
This with a wet runner intake system, injectors spraying at the back of the intake valve vs direct injection only sucking air, a dry intake system unless your sucking a lot of blowby fumes and oil? A lot of cold starts with short runs to work or store accelerating buildup especially condensation causing sludge another issue.
Another feature especially with automatics being low rpm upshift turds especially the with older pushrod engines driven around town a lot resulting in increased compression due to carbon buildup unless driven hard once in a while keeping the engine cleaned out. A hard run up to 5,500 2nd to 4th then 5th pulling to 5K keeps the engine carbon buildup free combustion chambers then running better overall.
The hard thing is finding an area able to stand on it over 125 mph for over a mile. The Highway Patrol can be sneaky at a wrong time and frown on this type of tuneup.
I've seen what happens with walnut blasting BMW intakes know to have intake valve carbon buildup. Friends muffler shop business with removed Cats blocked up buy burnt walnut pieces stuck in the tight grid of the Cats.
No thanks i'll muck out when it comes to that, so far 87K not required. OB1 for a reason.....~~=o&o>......
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