Roof Rack for camping gear

[jwest]

most definitely can open the sunroof, up and all the way back.

I did use the yak towers, now in 6 locations. I cut the bars to fit within the width of the side rails so the rack snugs right down on them at the 3 stock rack mount locations (you could attach differently but this lined up with the lr3 fine) Ideally the front needs a taller mount than the rear, I made a temporary height fix by using another cross tube to gain an inch.

They are secured to rack via grade 8 thru bolts and lock washers. I can remove the entire rack and bars and mounts in one piece though which has been nice for spring cleaning or if sunroof work needed to be done. My roof lighting all unplugs via a single trailer type plug at the rear.

I am most likely overstressing the yakima parts but it's been fine so far. We have since decided to never have the tent up there anyway and put it on a trailer instead or camp with normal tents.

The air damn is the Thule version and simply mounts to the front rack edge. It reduces wind noise to a minimum although a custom made molded thing would be nicer.

 

[Mhaise57]

I also noticed your air setup in the rear compartment and I doubt you are plumbing that off the oem setup. Where is that originating from? Any info would be great. I really dig your setup but it looks quite heavy when loaded out. Also what length lift mods are you using and do you run them full time.

 

[jwest]

I also noticed your air setup in the rear compartment and I doubt you are plumbing that off the oem setup. Where is that originating from? .

I don't "believe" in the "lift" mods as they only further stress an already marginal design and make the safety and handling on highway worse than it is in the first place. I tried them and decided that after the test ride, the benefit was not worth the risk. I wouldn't want to be avoiding something at 80 mph with those things installed.

You can't create more "lift" than what is already available anyway, you can only be in the upper zone more often which is relatively useless except for fitting larger tires, but even then, it's not like you can easily jump up to a 33+ tire without other issues. There are still tight points which can't be easily changed.

Instead I resort to using the "extended" stock mode by inducing it with jacks stands.

Maybe lr3's with less stuff handle better using the rods but all the weight on mine and many others combined with the rods full time is a really bad idea - but so is driving an old car with no safety design features and plenty of us do that for a fun Sunday afternoon too. It's all in your priorities.

About the air, yes, it comes from another tank supplied by an arb compressor. If you look under your lr3, assuming you don't have the huge slider plates like mine, you can see the stock brackets and mount points for a tank on the right side behind the sill. You will also see a place for a compressor I think. These are a mirror image of the left side of the lr3, possibly they get built onto the opposite side for Britain?

So, we got a matching tank to the stock one, fitted it, and the arb into the spot waiting for a compressor and routed the lines and gauge to the left rear access panel. I love having the easy air for on/off trail or even when fully loaded one trip I realized I could get much better handling, and less crap from the esc, if I utilized the 80psi rating on my bfg's.

It made a huge difference running the interstate curves at 70+ through Colorado - much more stable. This runs off the 2nd battery and the switch for the battery is also in that plate seen here:

More details of some switches and such here: http://www.jwestproductions.com/2007LR3/

 

[nwoods]

I had the Hannibal 3/4 rack, made specifically for the LR3. It's an awesome rack, but pricey. For a while, Hannibal bailed on the USA market, but they are back again so hopefully they are back in the pipeline. Mine was the first in the country and cost nearly as much to ship as it did to purchase. HannibalUSA.com is the site.

If the Hannibal is not readily available, call Paul at Equipt1.com regarding FrontRunner. Similar design, and the accessories are transferable. Both are good kit.

Similar to JWest, I used Thule pylon mounts as the stock mounts were not that great. The benefit of the Yak or Thule mounts is the quick release, allowing my wife and I to toss the lightweight aluminum rack on the roof only when we needed it, which wasn't all the often in reality.

Also, here is an article about fitting on board air if you don't plan on adding a second battery in the engine bay: http://blog.nextstepdesigns.com/?p=34

 

[jwest]

I think a battery is an absolute requirement for any time camping. You can run the fridge or at least not worry about the silly interiors lights coming on or the radio draining the starting battery - this is easy to do. Less commonly needed is air and the portable version of the arb can be brought along any time and clipped to the battery for use.

Those are great family shots! The kids look like they are really enjoying the outing!!

About these racks, I got mine in 2006 from Atlantic British but I don't think they are carrying it any more. I know of a g wagen supplier who has just started to bring them in though. The larger one like mine, actually spec for the Disco II, gives you the most space and flexibility though You could have a full size roof tent, 1 Pelican 1650 and a double jerry can holder as well as two awnings. The weight is the reason I used 6 mount points for mine and made sure it was perfectly split to each.

 

[nwoods]

I kinda agree about the battery, but I didn't have a winch or a fridge in my LR3, and with the HID upgrade, I really wasn't running any heavy electrical loads. Never had a battery problem.

Thanks for the compliment on the family photos. Coming from a pro such as yourself, I genuinally appreciate that! I have a few more similar images under the category of "Journey's" on my smug site: http://nwoods.smugmug.com/Family/Journeys/

I had ordered my Hannibal through AB also around the same time frame I would guess. I know that HannibalUSA is back in business, and no longer affiliated with AB, so availability is uncertain.

My 3/4, 4 pylon mount rack was pretty strong. It easily held 300 lbs regularly. IN the photo below, the military NVG cases are holding about 100 lbs of tools, and the Large Action Packer is full of firewood. Not a light load!

 

[schafari]

Wow, that is a ton of weight for a roof rated for only 165lbs. (Ha, don't mean the pic of your wife/son of course, but of your gear loaded out) I am leary to put much weight above 150lbs up there since I found out how the rails are mounted. The LR LR3 roof tracks/rails are simply held down by PLASTIC screws. . . Yes, plastic. They are rather large but they are just plastic, not steel. I could not believe it when I replaced my Alpine glass roof. Apparently they also tend to break when you take them out.

Granted that most of the weight will be pushing down so there are not a ton of forces that will cause the rack to lift. . .however, if you go around a bend or corner the weight vector will change from down to a sheer force left or right. That is where I get concerned with too much weight up top.

Did you change out the roof track bolts?

 

[nwoods]

Did you change out the roof track bolts?

No...mine were large black steel M12 bolts if I recall. However, my truck was a pre-production model (for NAS anyway). It could have been different from the normal LR3's, but I tend to doubt it.

 

[thorgal]

I have the same black steel M12 bolts as Nathan,they are covered by plastic clips however...
As far as Hannibal full size rack , it is pricey now...$1700 plus S/h.It is the only roof rack that serves my expectations:
-floor runs lengthwise,therefore it is quieter,
-railing is fully detachable,so it is flat and I can haul items such as kayaks,plywood and even ladder if need arises,perfect solution IMO
Why would you ,guys say , that OEM legs are not a good design and switched to yak?

 

[nwoods]

Why would you ,guys say , that OEM legs are not a good design and switched to yak?

Not sure if JWest's was like mine, as mine was the very first LR3 specific Hannibal rack in the country. They included a large box of all stainless steel hardware. It was really nice stuff...if you are building a gate for your fence. It was very fussy to install, with dozens of bolts, and having 3 hands was essential, and once on, it simple would be too much work to bother ever taking it off again.

Here are photos: