Seafaom Treatment Gone Wrong?

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ericksd

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Seafoam Treatment Gone Wrong?

First of all, I want to thank the group for all the very helpful information here. I am new to Land Rovers since last June and, thanks to this forum, I am beginning to have a much better understanding of my 1999 Disco 2.

Well...after reading the many threads on how helpful seafoam can be, I decided to get a few cans.

I dumped one can into the fuel tank for starters.

While disconnecting the vacuum hose from the passenger side valve cover (kind of tough comming off), i heard a crack. When I finnaly got it off I noticed the stem of what i believe to be the oil separator (looks like it in the workshop manual) had broken off.

Not knowing what could be done about it at the time, I went ahead with the treatment. I used Disco Mike's method of extending the vacuum hose into the can and regulating the flow with a pair of pliers (almost stalled the engine at first, but it did not set a code).

My neighbor was pretty impressed with all the smoke about 20 minutes later when I fired it back up.

OK...here is where the trouble began...

Two days later, as some freinds and I were driving up north for a snowmobile trip (accelerating from a rest area), the service engine soon light came on (solid). I bought a Rovacom Lite diagnostics server back when I bought the truck and had decided to bring it along just in case. While driving, I had one of my friends check out the fault code, which was P0172 = MIXTURE ADAPTION FACTOR FRA BANK 1 DRIVE CYCLE C, and P0175 = MIXTURE ADAPTION FACTOR FRA BANK 2 DRIVE CYCLE C.

I had read somwhere before that all the junk passing through the system after a seafoam treatment can sometimes freak out things like O2 sensors, so after recording the faults I had him reset them.

Accelerating away from the next rest area the light came on again (same faults). I thought that maybe because I still had some of the seafoam left in the tank, it was still disolving carbon so we once again reset the codes.

After the next fill up, it never happend again for the rest of the trip north of Green Bay, all the way back down to Cincinnati.

Yesterday morning, the light came on again caused by the same codes.

I looked up the codes on the Rovacom Lite forum and one guy said he had a problem with the code due to a vacuum leak somewhere in the plenum causing the mixture to be too lean.

Now we get to the real question (sorry for being so long winded)...

Could the part that broke on the oil separator have caused this?

I am wondering if the part is also a check valve of some kind that closes at times of wide open trottle to prevent sucking too much air in.

Maybe this is all just coincidental, but its kind of funny how it started happening 2 days after giving it the treatment.

Dan
 
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tcosson

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Here is what the service manual says..
P0172 System too lean (bank 1) Multiplication injector adaptive fuelling - lean limit
exceeded LH bank
P0174 System too rich (bank 2) Multiplication injector adaptive fuelling - rich limit
exceeded RH bank
P0175 System too lean (bank 2) Multiplication injector adaptive fuelling - lean limit
exceeded RH bank

If that part is still broke you probably should get a new one. Although I've not quite figured out which piece you mean...
 

ericksd

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After reading a little more in the workshop manual, it looks like the separator (located in the stub pipe comming off of the right hand rocker cover) is just a corkscrew type piece that had about an inch long stem comming off of the top. Not really sure what this stem does.

The manual says that the separator is integral to the breather tube in the rocker cover, so I don't really know if it can be replaced or not. I would hate to have to get a new rocker cover just for that one small piece.

I can't really see how the broken stem would affect the way the separator works.

I am hope that the problem is just O2 sensors temporarily reacting to the carbon passing through the system.

Anyone else have problems with Seafoam setting codes?????

Dan
 

Monty

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I had a code once, but oddly enough, it was the fuel evaporative system setting it off. I still need to replace the charcoal cannister. I'll get to it someday.
 

Monty

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No, not related. I should have mentioned that in the first place. Good luck with yours though.
 

joey

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First, where you able to fix or replace the broken part? Did you check the hose to see if it has any holes in it?

It sounds like the vaccum line is leaking and causing your issue. I don't think it is specifically related to the Seafoam treatment, probably more an old vaccum line issue. (but I could be wrong)

I know when I was getting ready to due my seafoam treatment I ended up changing all the vaccum lines in the engine compartment... they all looked like they were falling apart and the one you had issues with even developed a hole when I took it off.
 

ericksd

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Thanks Joey,

I did not fix or replace the part yet, but I will take another look at it when I pick it up today.

It seems I have bigger fish to fry...

I had taken it to the dealer for a number of issues (only because I bought an extended warranty and I'm sure needed to go through a reputable service facility).

They said that the service engine soon light came on because the MAF sensor had become contaminated. This was because the lid for the air filter assembly is not sealing and was letting non-filtered air into the intake. They recommended a new air filter box and MAF sensor.

One of the other issues was the shuttle valve in the ABS modulator had failed and is non-servicable. They wanted $1800 plus labor for a new modulator.

Lastly, I have a leak in the radiator and in the plenum de-icer, both of which they wanted to replace.

All in all, the estimate was up to around $3300.

The extended warranty people said that NON of it is convered!!!!!!!!!!!!!

So...I'm on my way to the dealership in a few minutes to pick it up just like I left it.

What really sucks about the whole thing is I still have to pay the dealer $310 for diagnostics that I could have done (for the most part) myself.

I still love my ride though...

Dan
 

joey

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buy an airbox off of ebay if you think you need it...

MAF Clean it with some contact cleaner and let dry.

ABS, pull the fuse. Unless you have a D2, then I am not sure if that is a good idea or not.

Leaking radiator, find a good radiator shop and have them fix it.... probably less then $100.

Hope this helps.

**** didn't notice or forgot that you have a D2****
 
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SteveA

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The plenum heater is easy to fix. All you need is a screwdriver, a pair of pliers and the gasket from the dealer. The gasket is only a few dollars. This will keep the coolant (which is flamable believe it or not) from dripping on top of the left valve cover. It should take you only about 20-30 minutes to fix that.

Stephen
 

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