Thoughts on faults

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Houm_WA

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Yesterday on a trail run I got a Transmission Fault. The message center indicated that limited gears were available and the 4x4 info display read "F" instead of D for drive. I re-booted and all was well thereafter.

This is twice in consecutive weeks now, while offroad, that I've gotten a fault, cleared it and then had no issues. What is the collective take on this? Do you guys think that if the fault clears with a re-boot then it's of no concern? How often do you get faults? Do you suppose that with all those electrons and sensors it's not worth worrying about?

My plan is to basically do nothing, but when the rig goes into for its next service have the techs hook it up and check for a residual fault code. Since it's under extended warranty, I'm not too worried. If a bigger problem occurs, I'll just get 'er fixed.
 

hell pie

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Last year in October, I experienced my first major fault. I was in a sketchy part of town at night and had just dropped a friend off at his car. Upon restarting my LR3, I was Christmas treed with fault messages for transmission, HDC, park brake, etc. The car would not shift out of first gear and the suspension would not raise out of access mode. I tried rebooting the system numerous times, but the faults would not clear. It was late, the family was agitated, and I had just done a 100 mile bicycle ride, so I limped the vehicle home. First gear in access mode on the freeway makes for a not fun ride. At this point, the car was about 500 miles past warranty. Oddly enough, the next morning all the faults were gone and the car behaved as if nothing had happened. There had been a considerable amount of rain the previous evening, so I thought that maybe the faults were due to an electrical connection getting wet.

All was fine until a few weeks ago. It had been a clear day with no recent rain. Upon starting the LR3, I was Christmas treed with the above faults. Tried multiple reboots, but the faults would not clear. I drove home and assumed that the faults would disappear overnight. The faults stayed like a bad house guest. With 54k miles on the car, I was concerned that repairs would be expensive.

After doing much web research, particularly on disco3.co.uk, I tried disconnecting the battery leads and shorting them (not the battery terminals!) for as long as 15 minutes. This was reported as being a way to clear out faults, perhaps like discharging the RAM on a home computer, but it didn't work for me. The strange thing is that the radio still retained its presets and the navigation would remember which menu page it was last (offroad mode). There is probably another battery for retaining that information, but I don't think it is related to the faults. I also tried replacing the battery entirely, as numerous people had posted that the LR3 is very sensitive to low voltages. The replacement battery was an Interstate MTP-H8, but the faults did not go away.

After driving around with the faults for over two weeks, I finally surrendered my wallet to the dealer. When I later picked up the car, the service advisor wasn't in, but the paperwork indicated that all the faults were due to a brake switch issue. The part was replaced and all the faults were cleared. I still have not contacted the service adviser to discuss what the specifics of the problem were.

My LR3 has been a real joy to drive 99.99% of the time. It's the 0.01% that drives me nuts and, dare I say, makes me regret buying such a computerized vehicle. With my past vehicles, if there was a problem, it was fairly easy to identify and repair. If the problem was too complicated to handle myself, I would take it to a mechanic, but I at least still knew what the problem was even though I could not fix it. With the faults I had on the LR3, I had no clue what the root of the issue was. Going to the dealer was a bit scary from a financial perspective, and the service advisor's comment, "you are out of warranty and you don't have the extended warranty," made me even more scared. Had they been an unscrupulous dealer, they could have milked me for a lot of money, all because I had no clue what the problem with the vehicle was. I was totally at their mercy, and I didn't feel comfortable with that.

All has been well with the LR3 for the past week. The best I can do is keep up with regular maintenance and hope that I don't get Christmas treed again.
 

codemonkey

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If you remember from last summer, I had a post or two about odd faults when offroading, when the car had been running for many hours. They would always go away with an ignition cycle. A few people suggested this might be the sign of a battery on its way out.

Since winter started and I've been driving the LR3 a little less frequently, I've started to have more of the fault-on-startup stuff that is more typically linked to a weak or failing battery. I haven't had a chance to get a new one yet, so I don't know if that's the cause, but I suspect that the symptoms I had last summer really were the very early signs of a weak battery. Now that the cold weather and infrequent driving are accelerating the death of the battery, I see the faults more often.

I've actually been hoping to put off getting a new battery until as close as summer as possible - I want to see if a fresh battery when offroading will get rid of the weird faults I had last summer.
 

drzjoint

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I had faults with a bad battery. It is covered under the warrantee
 

trm2

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I had my battery replaced after faults. I had the dealer and a local guy test the battery, and it was pretty far gone. The replacement, however, has died rather quickly (think weeks, not years). Stupidly (?), I had had the LR dealer replace the battery, thinking that they would use some high-end battery (otherwise, I would have had the local guy do it, like he does my other car). My local guy tells me the Interstate replacement battery is generally considered terrible and no one would use it for a vehicle with big power demands--he literally accused me of lying when I said the LR dealership installed it. So, the car is at LR to get the battery replaced for "free." I'll keep ppl posted if interested.
 

Houm_WA

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I thought maybe it was battery related...but you'd think that after being "on" for an hour or two the rig would be running on straight alternator and not battery...but I honestly don't know how that works.

I look at the fact that I'm running tires that are 2 sizes bigger than stock and a modifiied suspension link...and maybe anything can happen in terms of faults. I just don't want to be doing any damage. I can handle the faults if they clear and if it's just an artifact of a sensor getting muddied or not liking the larger tires or a combination.

...the real question in this thread is whether or not this community thinks I should be alarmed.

...and for the record I have an Optima 34R on-order which I'll get in about 2 weeks and install. That should help. Also at 75k I will take it in for "service" and ask the dealer to check for fault residuals. If I don't like the price I'll take it somewhere else.
 

phurley

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It's likely not battery-related if happening with the engine running (although possible). However, if this is happening on startup, then it likely is battery (the transfer box range change is cycled diagnostically when starting, and throws this fault when the range change motor is under-juiced).

This could be as trivial as the transfer box range change needing recalibration or something more serious. I doubt it's related to the oversized tires or the modified link arms. Did you hard-reset or just ignition-reset? If you hard-reset, the code(s) is/are cleared and will not be avail for diagnostics. Also, if you hard-reset, you dumped the gearbox software upgrade.

Either way, it's probably best if you take it in at your earliest convenience.

BTW, the Optima 34R is not the best solution as replacement for the OEM battery. The Deka H8 size AGM battery here is a better choice. The Optima is only 800CCA whereas the Deka AGM is 900CCA. FYI, both are improvements over the OEM and Interstate MTP-H8 wet-cells.
 

Houm_WA

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Thanks for the feedback. What exactly is a "hard re-boot?" I just turned the car off, let it sit for a minute, and cranked it. I spoke with a service rep today that I actually trust and think he knows what he is talking about. He said that it still could be battery-related because the various ECUs still check the voltage periodically. They could've been getting a low voltage reading. That's the thing...I KNOW my battery is shot. Twice I wore it down and had to jump it either with another rig or a portable inverter.

The Deka looks pretty good. It's not just CCA that I'm after though....the Optima's selling points are also its toughness, durability and shock resistence. 800 CCA is still way above the OE Spec.
 

nwoods

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It is hard to know what to look for. According to the repair write-ups, I once had a "wheel speed sensor" throw some fault codes. And then I had a "corroded connector" that killed my speedometer once. That was weird.
 

Houm_WA

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These are good stories.

...but, how do you respond to these faults? Do you wait until they do not clear? Do you go in no matter what? What about psychologically? Do you freak when one goes off? Have you learned which ones are significant and which ones aren't?

I just don't know whether to laugh at the LR3 when it throws a fault...or freak out because my baby is sick....
 

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