Tried to get my suspension fixed

[djkaosone]

I checked the oil level this morning after letting it sit a bit longer than 10 minutes and it measured 1/2 qt low.

Doing the control arms myself would save money, that is a great idea. I'd still need to have it aligned but at least the clunk would go away. Are parts from FCPeuro different than the dealer parts? The local Land Rover parts guy gives me discounts so I won't need to pay full price.

Lemforder is oem manufacturer and are roughly $180 each, if you can get it cheaper than that from the dealership go for it. Just for the pure fact that it's lifetime warranty, I'd do it in a heart beat.

If you have Firestone Complete Auto Care around you, I'd highly recommend getting lifetime alignment from them. They're decent enough to get it aligned "straight" if you have the Gap tool and put it into tight tolerance mode. I have them and they're "nationwide".

 

[ftillier]

FCPEuro will sell OEM stuff, not sure if they have the OEM LCAs. They warranty them for life though, so if you like the plush ride of the stock bushings, it'll effectively cost you shipping and an alignment to swap them every 50k miles.

 

[ftillier]

If you have Firestone Complete Auto Care around you, I'd highly recommend getting lifetime alignment from them. They're decent enough to get it aligned "straight" if you have the Gap tool and put it into tight tolerance mode. I have them and they're "nationwide".

Do you tell them to keep it running while they align it, or is putting it in tight tolerance mode before they drive it onto the rack good enough?

 

[djkaosone]

What I would do is drive to service center, park with the truck still running, plug in the Gap, put it into tight tolerance mode, and shut off the truck. I tell them, "Don't unplug the odb2" and the "suspension light is ON, on purpose". They take the keys, drive it around back, and come back completed. I will start the truck, make sure the "suspension warning" is still there, put it back into "Normal" mode, and drive off.

I've done this after each off road trip. Well worth the lifetime alignment price.

 

[ftillier]

I'm about to do my 5th alignment this year, so having a place that will just sort it would be nice. First shop did a bad job - steering wheel was crooked. I took it back, and they gave it back to me even worse, claimed that the next step was to move the steering wheel on the column. Nope. Took it to a different shop, they got it better, but still off a bit, took it back and they got it closer but not perfect. I'm about to take it to JLR under the assumption they know what they're doing, but if I can get a lifetime deal that would probably be worth it.

 

[ugmw177]

Wow, it baffles me how an alighment shop would return the car to the customer with the wheel off. It is not rocket science. they should set the wheel straight, use a clamp to hold it there then set the toe in with the tie rods. The camber adjustments is what some shops do not understand on the LR. In fact the firestone centers around here will not align a LR4 or RR either. WE do have a good indie shop and dealer. both can get it correct. I do also set the system into tight tolerance mode prior to giving it to them then after alignment, set it back to normal with GAP IId. Also I use the LCAs that are Meyle HD units. They have been great and should outlast the oem ones with a good ride quality

 

[gsxr]

Lemforder is oem manufacturer and are roughly $180 each, if you can get it cheaper than that from the dealership go for it. Just for the pure fact that it's lifetime warranty, I'd do it in a heart beat.

I also bought the Lemforder LCA's, Made in UK, and appear to be OEM Land Rover with the LR logo removed. Think I posted photos of them on the forum a few years ago. Half the price of Genuine LR.

I paid the dealer to install & align... and still have the intermittent !@#$%! clunking noise from the front suspension with new LCA's and new sway bar end links, when driving slowly over dips/bumps, like crossing a gutter between the main road & a parking lot. Can't find anything else loose up there. Not much left to be causing it besides UCA/balljoint or the air strut.